bansheesrtoys

well if i would have known that you would sell them for cheaper with-out the bigger adapotors i would have bought it from you in a heart beat , but when i went to your website didn't see them any other way. i quess that makes me an ass for not asking you.

don't forget about the ones that say use the search function in the top right of the page,because this has already been talked about.

if your bike is tuned you shouldn't have to change your plugs often at all. i had the same plugs going on 2 1/2 yrs now and my banshee runs strong. only time you really foul a plug is because you are NOT riding it hard enough to burn the fuel or you jets are wrong causing it to over fuel.

what makes yours better than the cheaper one besides the larger boot you include?they look exactly the same. and yes you should support the ones who support you, but really it cost 20 dollers for those bigger adapters? and i know you have to make your money to, but if i don't plan on going with bigger carbs than 28mm then its just a wastse of money.

when i had a banging out the right side, it ended up being the lower rod bearing. it would still run but like shit. make sure you check that to well you have it apart. and banging was my rod hitting the cases.

well not saying my set-up is the best but is does a damn good job. and i don't feel bad the next day nor do i get tired as fast. here it is. wicked +2+1 arms-$450 elka stage 3's bought brand new bought on sale-$800 RPM dominator +2 axle-$350 gripper seat-$40 -2 swing-arm with round house carrier-$450 R/A shedders all around-$225 for all of them, but since i bought them i notice they went up in price like double. stock rear shock and link. i can take whoops just as fast as dirt bikes and over jump a few jumps and it feels good. not sayin i jumping 80ft gaps but big enough to where with my stock set-up would hurt me for a week. i know you said you don't want a shorter swing-arm but it really helps alot. next i plan on getting a stabilizer which is about $350-400 for a good one like elka or gpr.also a good set of bars and gripps will help to. i don't ride mx every weekend either but when i do it doesn't bother the next day. i wouldn't get the yfz shocks for one reason,if they were so good then why do the oweners sell them to buy after-market ones?jmo

your pilot should be 27, if it was leaking out of the over flow tube then it is possible you flooded the motor. and i would run a 290-300 main jet.i forgot where my needle is. After you did the bottom end did you do a leak down test? did you do a comp test? just because it new doesn't mean it is sealed right.if you still have stuff coming out the gas then you could even have a clogged jet or petcock. if you can't get the gas tank cleaned i would replace it. and if you are leaking fuel its not a jet problem it the needle float rubber is worn and needs to be replaced.

X2, i bought it from ebay too. works great.

it a dealer selling it thats why it soo much. i wouldn't buy it. You can get them with pipes for cheaper. And pipes r the first to go on a stock shee. try looking on CL plenty of great deals out their. for one like that with pipes around me can be found for 2k to 2500.oh yeah welcome to the site.

need more info on bike. like gearing?carb set-up?motor-setup?compession test?might need new plugs?maybe a top-end? hell the brakes can be sticking,who knows

cascadeinnovation.net sells them with the bearing carrier. they might sell just what u want if you call and ask them.

damn wish you lived closer, that is what i am looking for.

thanks slipknot for the pic , i have a prob posting pics and couldn't really explain any better than i did. Now jlsparky do you see them. keep the vids coming they are good.

mmmm i can see the grooves in your vid. Even in the clymer manuel shows how they should sit. at 3.19 in your vid if u look where the doll pin is under that towards crank their r grooves that where those bearing pins sit.

or he can send them to you matt and have them done right.

o n the clutch pressure plate you don't have to take off the middle nut that comes off with the pressure plate when you take off the 6 bolts.on the crank bearings. the little pins sit in the groove on the bottom half of the case not the holes you said. and you should really wash the outside of the cases befor ripping into a motor, so you don't get anything in the bearings or the trans.besides that nice vids

i was joking

start in the middle of your setting. everybody rideing is different so what might work for me more than likely won't work for you. and when you say big , do you mean big jumps, big staight aways,big whoops? it makes a diffence. preload should be set where the quad is about 7.5-9 inches of frame clearancefrom the ground to the frame, with the back of the quad about 1/4 to 3/4 lower than the front. then for comp. n rebound well it all tail n error. on the biggest jump you should just barley bottom out. you want the shocks to follow the terrain you r in . so some cases call for moore a faster rebound and a slower comp. just start making little changes at a time like one click till you find what you like. i have elkas you my set-up is going to be diiferent than yours.

what is that not enough?? should he be asking more. i would buy it if i lived closer to it.

and dual over head cams for my shee.

its a 2-stroke not 4, there is no oil under the piston just pre-mix which has oil in it. so draining the oil will do nothing at all for him.

you have it all wrong, you have to put the plastic wrap around your airfilter s. put alot too, make sure nothing can get in not even air. let me know how it works for you. BTY i think this is a first time this has been talked about at least i hope and should be the last.

for the head: put it on and ride.lol. for pipes i personally have T5's good all around pipe. most people on here will tell you for more bottom end to go with some PC but i never tried them so IDK. i do like to T5's but i'm always high in the rpm's even in the woods.

i would re-use everything. Or for the rear get self-locking nuts. I don't like lock-tight because it makes it a hasle to take apart next time.

with that gearing their is no way you r hitting 90mph. with the gearing i have 15/38 i barely hit 90 mph and my bike pulls hard all the way to the end of 6th gear on pavement.