bansheesrtoys

well assuming he bought the bike when it was still jetted for summer will make him lean right now. thats why i say get bigger jets. but i could be wrong. i'm just trying to help. and who ever owned it befor sure didn't know what they were doing or it would have matching plugs. if they couldn't get the plugs right what makes you think they got the jetting right. and jetting a bike is not the worse thing.

i would also get rid of the trinity sticker. lol. no but for real i would take it off.

i would do the leak down test for the fact that he just bought it,and he doesn't really know what was done and when. what if he gets it running and has a small leak. that small leak can cost more money down the road. and jet are cheap and you will always need different ones. I would buy a few bigger jets and try them for the cold. plus get matching plugs it will make a big diffence.

more than likely your gonna want a 20-22. but elevation plays a bigg part

ok well first what kind of gas are u running?because with that much comp u should be running race fuel. and second try to switch the spark plug boots and see if the problems goes to the other side. and try a 27.5 for a pilot jet.

hahahaha, no ,lol. but when i do if i do i will let you guys know.

no not at all , because i know my shit.lol. when check the 4 main jets was posted, i laughed my ass off. or sinked my carbs. really sink them. i'm not talking shit because i learned alot from this web site but man some people should read what they post befor they post. but thanks anyways everybody for the help and time.

what bogg? it don't bogg and i never said it did. and as far as the air screw i will try it.

yeah but it should still idle up when i pull it. it doesn't. oh and i have a 320 jet in right now not 330.

the floats height are set right, i did it mid of last summer when i rebuilt the carbs.and i know they have numbers that why i said i put 330 mains in. All of the jets match in each carb. I do have T5's and a toomey 2-1 with k/n air filter. the main jets i put in are brand new too. why would i bring my banshee to someone to jet it? i'm pretty close and it's not that it don't run good its the choke doesn't do anything.It run great and starts one or two kicks.i didn't have this problem till i switched the bowls over to the right carbs.

What ?

i have elka's on mine and love them. couldn't be happier.

it will ripp where it connects.i just had to replace my intake. i don't really know why they ripp with the boost bottle but they do. i went with a intake from charoit with a built in crossover tube. really looks nice and gives you room to work.

get rid of the tors setup and buy and kit with carb caps,cable,and idle screws. and the tors comes off like a reg carb cap, but their is a bracket on the side of the carbs that needs to be removed in order to spin the cap free.a phillips screw holds it on.if you don't want to get rid of the tors then you can mess with the screws on top of the tors for idle.but don't just go screwing them in the carbs need to be in syn. i don't know about fmf but with my t5's with r close and k-n clamp on filters, and stock head at 60 over with stock carbs. i was at 30 pilot 290 main and 2nd clip from bottom of needle. air screw 1.5 out. about 780ft above sea level

But maybe ths guy u bought it off sinked the floats upside down... You might have to go get the carbs sinked so the floats are right... what do you mean? i thought that the flaots only go on one way. is there a left and right float? or are they both the same? and as far as getting them sinked or" synhronizing" the carbs. i did it with the tool and its perfect

ok well since you just bought it a few weeks ago start with a leak down test (their is a how to pinned in banshee repairs and mods). then go thuogh the carbs and make sure they are adjustited right (same jets,air screw same turns out).next is the tors system for the carbs removed?if yes then your carbs are more than likely out of syn. buy a synchonizer tool and make sure they are right. because if not then one slide might be to closed at idle making not run at low rpms. next get ridd of that boost bottle befor it ripps the intakes and get the stock crossover tube.buy some new plugs and do a plug chopp and see how your jetting is.

no thats not it. i have the tube hooked up. i was thinking it could be the choke plunger, but it worked befor i swithed the bowls over. could running the bowls on the wrong carbs mess up the choke when you put them back where they belong. I had them backwards for 4yrs, because thats how i bought it and didn't know any better. but then again it never started this good.

ok well i had the bowls on backwards. and before i did it would idle up when i pulled the choke and idle back down when i pushed it in, and it was a pain in the ass to start.Now that i put the bowls on the right carbs it starts right up in one or two kick. But when i pull the choke now it doesn't idle up or change at all.i also went from a 300 main for summer to a 320 for winter. what could be wrong? and yes my carbs r clean

sometimes the tick can be caused by a weak exhaust spring. And for the over heating it could be jetted wrong.or have an air leak.

well if you are going to buy a new crank why not get a +4 too?

i had the same problem. did you remove the tors?and install the idle screw? and if yes then did u synchonizs your carbs by eye or with the tool? i first did mine by eye and thought i was dead on, but after i bought the tool to syn them. I found out that the left side was running at a higher rpm than the right. after i made them right it ran better and didn't heat up different at all.

make sure you get the clutch cleaned quick and re oiled. coolant on clutch plates can somtimes screw up the clutch

i have 46" with the +5 part facing out. and i have 20x11x10 tires if that helps.

cool. then i bought a good axle. i only paid 260 brand new in the box with the warrenty card. i see them going for 389-450, so i think i got a good deal.

i just ordered RPM Dominator II axle today, and was wondering if anybody esle has one or tried one? i see alot of the pro's use them. In dirt wheels they are rated to be the best axle bar far.what do you guys think?