bansheesrtoys

my banshee runs at 160-190 any hotter than 210 and you will start to over heat. as for the gauge i think anything you can do to know how hot you r running is wotrh it .just depends on how nice you want it to look. don't think they really help in cooling really i have the inline cooler and my brother doeasn't and mine doesn't run any cooler at all.

well i thought everybody says their is no power gain so their would be no point in buying that. my ? is should i even run a tube or buy intakes that don't have the holes to even install the crossover tube?

maybe the guy that was in dirtwheels can do it?

ok so i need new intakes and everybody hates that boost bottle . Well i seen intakes without the holes even for the factory tube. My ? is , is it better to run without a tube or with the factory tube. and would their be any down fall to running with out it?or is this a drag racing mod?

i had the trans shop next to me put it in their hotwater parts washer.and that for the inside and out. it how they clean a trans case and any trans shop should have one.

if it is a stock crank don't wastse your money on welding. I would go +4 crank and have the jugs ported to match or run a spacer plate till you can afford the port job.i run a spacer plate know and it had a big power increase. Yes if you get the crank and have it ported you will endup spending over $500 but what if you get the stock crank welded and a month later it blows a bearing then you have to get a new crank. and if you run the spacer plate you will be right around $500. Alot of people don't like the spacer plate but when on a budget it works.

i like the fullbore set , and the race cut front fenders.With no headlights.

do you have pods? you could have got water into the jugs when washing it. the cold water could have seized the pistons.

i think i might have done this how would i tell them apart?

+2+1 arms and a -2 swingarm. turns on a dime, jumps over log easy, and handles alot better than most would think. jmo . and swingarm is round house. you can get any size roundhouse and should.

the case saver should be the next thing for sure. if your going to be making more power more of a chance of a chain break. and if you compare the price of a case saver to the price of matching cases.jmo

try going back to the +4 on timing

leave it alone. if you bend it back you will just weakin that spot. and i'm sure thats not your last wheelie your going to do.i did that same thing to mine and after a yr i forgot about it til now.

i like the white diamond . it is easy to use and does the best job i seen so far. $13 is not cheap but with this stuff you don't have to polish as much it keep the everything looking shinny.

those craptor plastics are soo damn ugly. i would go with fullbore

i use gease on the o-rings when installing. not talking shit but why would yo want to use rtv? it is messy and a pain in the ass to clean when you take apart.jmo. if you do it right you should be fine.

i have stock carbs now but they were on when i bought it. Iplan on getting 28 next yr.

i was wondering if it makes a diffence if you run the reed spacers in order of reed spacer, reed cage , then carb boot, or if you run them reed cage, reed spacer, carb boot.? i only ask because i seen the 350 alky banshee running them the second way i stated but i run mine spacer,reed,carb boot.

the clicking noise can be caused by a worn rear sprocket. if it has any little hooks it will catch the chain and cause your noise. had the same prob twice now.

better late than never.

i never ran alky or even seen anybody but i think with your mods i would run 100 race gas and ditch the alky setup.i think the 42 carbs are a little to big for wood racing.i hear most people saying run the 28pwk or even the 30's.

it depends on how much he rode it on the rebuild? how it looks? but i still would only pay about $2500 -2600.jmo.

their is also a spring in the stock thumb lever assmebly that can be removed. might help.i have an extended lever too and i have no problems with it at all. jmo.

plus most don't break in a top end like it should be,they just put it togher and ride the shxt out of it right from the start. just because it warms up doesn't mean its broke in.i seen people put it all togher let it warm up then go full thottle the first time out.if you want it to last you should first start by starting it up let it warm up for 10-15 mins then shut it down and let it fully cool down. Then start it again let it warm up then ride it 1st thru 3rd gear not hitting the powerband for 20mins not staying in one gear to long. let it cool down. after cooled down.Then warm it up again and ride it 4th thru6th for about 20mins hittin the powerband for short burst, not staying in powerband to long ,or one gear to long. let it cool down one last time and your piston rings should be propely seated.