bansheesrtoys

i thought it was funny, but yeah i would tell them to keep it and find a triZ 250 motor to drop in it, the triZ motor should bolt right in plus then it a 250.

is the pivot bearings good and tight or is their play in the swingarm, when i say play i mean put it on a stand and take a rear tire and try to move it side to side and up and down,it it lose it will make the swing arm go sideways when you gas it. and the reason people get a round house is so the chain is always aligned, so somthing is wrong. don't settle for a misaligned chain it will wear out chains and sprockets real fast.

i ride woods fast, being a banshee i trend to race around the water and mud not though it, and the dunes and i found that renthal sprocket and chain kits work well and last longer than any other one i tried except steel. and i run a +4 mil storker motor. don't get a tag or primary drive unless you feel like pushing your quad back. i had the renthal setup for 2yrs with little signs of wear, but thats just me.

man that sucks hope u firgure it out .did you maybe crack the coil in the wreck a small crack can cause bad spark or weak spark. or the plug wires r bad or a bad ground wire connection, if your freind has a banshee try changing coils and wires,

is the snap ring on that holds on the brake caliper bracket. if not then the hole carrier need to be moved over make sure the adjustable side with the holes is flat agaisnt the housing, second is the sporcket hub in all the way or is it getting stuck on the splines or is it a used carrier with the bearring not installed the right way.

any broken wires? maybe a bad ground?since its twist grip the tors system is removed did you plug in anything after the wreck. look on the left side of the frame behide the raditator. you might have to remove the gas tank but their is a little box mounted to the frame on the left side if it is plugged in without the tors system working then it would give a weak spark that will not start a motor. if it is unpluged well i don't know then. my brother plugged in mine and it took me two days of swapping parts from his shee to mine to firgure it out.lol fun times

your elka should have came with the tools and a book on how to adjust them for what you want , they want about 7.5 to 9" of ground clearnce when you are sitting on it. and the rear should be about 1/4 to 3/4 on an inch lower than the front, that is what my elka book says.as far as comp n rebound well that all trial and error, what works for me may not work for you. best to start in the middle and see if you are bottoming out or boucning around.if bottoming out turn the comp dail to the H one click at a time and don't leave it in the middle of a click make one full click then ride it don't bounce on it because it not the same as you riding it. if you are to feel to bouncy then you want to increasethe rebound to slow it down. you don't want it to stiff but at the same time you don't want to bottom out .

i wonder if great stuff would be better and easier, and maybe even lighter. maybe i'll try great stuff and try the silicon to see which is better.

actually the easiest way to tell if your domes are leaking is just start it up and remove you raditor cap if coolant starts pouring out them its a leaking dome.

yeah your right , it would be easier your way.but the cooling system holds up to 15lbs if you put 15lbs of pressure in the crank case you could blow a seal couldn't you? so i would remove the pipes but use a cooling pressure tester, or take off the cap and kick it over a few times and see if any bubbles come up. plus if you use a coolant pressure tester with the pipes off you can tell which cyclinder is the problem.

going to badlands next saturday the 16 if want want to come your more than welcome to.

kool next saturday works for me. if you give me your email can email you my phone number so we can meet up out their.

if you think the dome is leaking coolant then get a coolant pressure tester, with a honda adapter, the honda adapter is the same as the banshee's raditor cap hole. put about 13psi and see if it holds if not then look for the leak. pull off your reeds and look in the cyclinder for coolant.

i have side work to do this sunday but how about next saturday on the 16 ? or suday 17 ?

just wanted to know if anyone was planning to go to badlands somtime this motnh befor it get to cold. don't really care what weekend.

went to badlands track was behide a ltr450r was getting ready to pass him and all of a sudden i hear a loud ping and my banshee lost all its power, i blew the lower rod bearing so i had a new crank put in ok so i had my motor rebuilt and rode it maybe three or four imes, so i went back to the badlands for some fun. ran great all day, well there was like 8 jeeps in a pack so i wanted to get around them and they r slow as hell. so any ways i hit the gas and was flying over the whoops next to them well when i got to the 1st guy in line, i hit the last whoop thottle wide open and landed in the middle of this 3ft deep 5ft by 5ft water hole. my motor stop right when it hit the water and i was soaked,i could hear them all talking on their CB's laughing at me. on top of that they didn't even ask to help or try to. had to push half way up a hill til some people on quads came to help me. when i got home i tor it apart to find my rod bent and my piston cracked. and if that wasn't bad enuogh i fixed the crank went +4mil,this time i did the rebuild on the motor, went back to the badlands to blow the rear spockect into pieces, had to get towed back again, just so everyone knows if you want to run a rear spocket smaller than a 40 you better do the LSR spocket holder bansheeaxle but uses a honda spocket.

i ride tight trails and sandy whoops, i done as far as motor , +4 mil stoker with 110 rods, cool head with 19cc domes,20 over stock wisco prolite pistons, V3's,reed spacers, toomey 2 into 1 air filterwith k&n filter, stock carbs, T5's, and a boost bottle,high flow impeller,temp gauge. i run 100 race fuel, and a P E clutch basket. for suspension i did+2+1 a-arms, elka stage 3 front shocks, -2 swing-arm with round house carrier, stock axle, honda sporket holder from LSR to run a 38 rear, 15 front, casesaver, this thing hauls ass though the woods and over whoops, i haven't found a four storke yet i couldn't catch and pass on a trail yet. and if you still have a thumb thottle get a longer on from cascade it really helps your thumb for those long rides

my wife rode mine and was hooked and now she owns one. gotta love a girl that can ride a banshee, plus i love riding behide her the veiw is great.

that is what i pretty much ride i have wicked +2+1 arms ($495) with tie rods, elka stage 3 fronts($799), a -2 swing arm from the swing-arm shop ($275) with round house and skid plate mounts no carrier the LSR carrier($199) stock axle and rear shock and dog bone thats next yr maybe even try them flexx bars with a LSR stem. but for what i have done this thing handles and feels way better

man look for store cleance sales i got a pair of elka piggyback stage 3 shocks for my banshee for 799 even no taxes or shipping charges from motosports.com that was march of this yr.

i have +2+1 wicked a-arms and rode them with stock shocks for a yr and it felt great over whoops and turns, not spongy at all. i upgraded this yr to elka piggyback and it flys though the whoops

i have a +4 stroker with a -2 swing arm and i will never go longer, if you trail ride its better to have a smaller wheel base plus i have +2+1 a-arms so my a-arms r forward more, and most street racing banshee shortend their swing-arms to only dunners and drag racers really need a longer swing arm. grow some balls and let the front end fly, thats why we ride banshees. i can climb hills and hit the throttle wide open its fun flying up a hill with your tires in the air while passing other banshees and 450r.it all about throttle control. with a -2 arm it flies off jumps staight and easy to control in the air. and in trails you ever try to jump a down tree with a +2 or +4 , not that easy . with a -2 i can do it with out even trying.

i would start with extended a-arms and front shocks, then gear it for your riding, the stock front end on a banshee is out dated and is harsh compared to one with a good pair of +2+1 a-arms with elka's piggybacks.

i would start with extended a-arms and front shocks, then gear it for your riding, the stock front end on a banshee is out dated and is harsh compared to one with a good pair of +2+1 a-arms with elka's piggybacks.

is the T.O.R.S system removed, if not is it working right , check to make sure the carb slides r both closing all the way with the throttle. if it is removed make sure evrthing was removed for the T.O.R.S system or you will not get spark.