bansheesrtoys

leave me in peace well then i wouldn't of got married. i love her and love the fact that we can share such a great sport togher.

be care with that top notch head . because i bought one new from them a few years back and it was machined wrong from them. it leaked from day one . i called them and told them and they said they were having problems with the maching, so they sent me another one but it leaked to so i got my money back and bought a pro design one and had no problems so far

it the best thing when you find a girl that loves the banshee as much as u yourself does. My wife always used to get pissed about all the time and money i spent on and with my banshee, but after i talked her into riding it just once she was hooked, like a crack head on crack.she now understood why i love this machine sooo much. but then she wanted one just as fast as mine.no old parts lol. she like em new and shinny like i do.

when i did mine i didn't have to change the jets,but i think it was a bit rich in the first place. so maybe try 2 jets bigger than what u have now and jet down from their. i have a +4 short rod with 19cc domes v3 and .20 over , stock ports and stock carbs 32:1 100 race gas.toomey 2 into 1 air filter with k&n. so i'm pretty close to what you have and it was orginal jetted for stock crank .20 v3 19cc domes and toomey 2 into 1 filter with the k&n 32:1 on 93 pump gas. but like i said it seemed to rich but know it ripps

x2 on that

the best way is to go one click at a time making it slower till you bottom out once though a set of whoops. then turn back one click.

it wouldn't help or hurt it . even when you pull the bolt on the side of the jugs their is still coolant at thebottom of them so they just keep the jugs from draining the rest of the coolant into the crank when you pull the jugs. coolant on crank bearing is not good at all.jmo , get them it makes doing a top end a cleaner job.

well the one on the side of the shock is for comp. and that means the harder you set the slow it will comp , resulting in a stiffer ride. and visevesuse the softer you set it the softer the ride. amd the one on the bottom of the shock is for rebound, and that is how fast your shock is able to come back out.to much and it feels like it is throwing you off and not enough u will bottom out over whoops.

turn it all the way one way and cunt the clicks all the way to the other way then set it in the middle, i think its likme 12 click not sure though.

don't buy a primary drive sprockets they SUCK . i bought them new witha new chain it it only lasted one ride for 2hrs, and the end of the ride the rear sprocket had hooked so bad that the chain was getting stuck on the sprocketas it turned.

that sprocket is done, and my renthal seems not to have any play .thats a nice weld job 'lol'. it is not likly that your shaft spines have play more than likly it that sporket. so i would grid the weld off and buy a new sprocket and try it. if plays is still their then replace the shaft. but i have a ? why did it get welded in the first place, prob the theards r striipped and the shaft is no good anyways.if i was you i would buy a new shaft,sprocket, sprocket nut and washer, cascade will have everthing you need.

you don't really need them, i had my banshee running with out them for 3yrs with no leaks or overheating. the only thing they r really for is so when you pull your jugs off the coolant don't go into the crank, without them you will for sure get coolant on your crank when pulling off jugs. bad for bottom bearings. if coolant leaks with out them then u have a different prob, because your base gasket will seal it.i replaced mine just bwcause i don't like getting coolant in the crank area.

u shouldn't have to with 19cc but it will give u better thottle response.

i like renthal for sporkets and chains they work very good and last long . plus they don't seem the strecth as much as others to me. JMO

mine was poweder coated to i had to use thinner to remove the powder coating and they still gave me a hard time . saying they can't see it , but after i read it to them number for number they finally belived me. plus when they powder coat a frame they sand it down a make it even harder to read the vin. and a ? my vin on my frame doesn't match my vin on my motor ,should it?

you can use a small ball hone ,but i have had bad luck with the balls getting stuck in the ports and ripping off. i found it better to use a three finger stone hone instead. it does a great job. and as far as going to the next size , i woundn't unless you have to the less you bore them the more life you get out off them in the long run. and if you have a stuck ring i would just buy new pistons and stone hone as long as your finger nail doesn't get caught on the srcatchs in the cyclinder wall. JMO oh yeah you should do the finger nail test after the hone, the hone will clean it up pretty good. don't forget to wash your cyclineders with warm water and use compped air to blow them out . just to make sure they r clean from the honing.

well you should aslo get a coolhead yours looks bad. as far as splitting the cases, i wouldn't just get a blow gun and blow out the crank lightly , don't blow out your seals. then spin it over and as long as it spin free and doen't bind you should be fine.

i have the +4 from viteos and ran it all summer hard as hell with a couple of missed shifts(meaning reving it way to high from 1st to 2nd gear) still the welds held up. and last year i had a stock one from them bent a rod but the welds were all still good maybe i just got lucky or maybe they have different people weldings for them and thats why some r good and some come apart. well i hope because like i said i have one. and bending the rod was all my fault i think . sucked up a gallon of water and that was it. plus the new +4 crank have reinfoced rods and their polished.

just wondering why no one really like viteos stuff like their cranks and cyclinders, i have a crank and it seems alright.

i like the T5's great sound

revving hi could be caused by a stuck slide on the carb, or the choke tube that goes from carb to carb is not installed.

well honestly when i bought it i just wanted to try a -2 at a cheap prices befor buying a LSR one but man this swingarm i got from him takes one hell of a beating and keeps going. i had it for two yrs now and no cracking in any welds and looks as good as it did the day it showed up at my door. and i woods race and dune ride, a little mx racing, and alot of jumping with no landings and i couldn't ask for a better swinger.

the swingarm shop is in michigan but i think he only on ebay but his swinger i bought is nice and he will poweder coat it for free any color. i paid 275 for a -2 with skid plate mounts and round house no carrier but J&J axle has a carrier for 185 any color you want also. he is easy to deal with i ordered it sat and he made it for me sun and had it to poweder coater by mon and i had in in about 1 1/2 weeks later nice weldsand everything lined up perfect.

just a thought but i hear the t6's are made for a stock motor maybe your pipes r the prob? not saying for sure just a thought

it's better to take it all apart because when you go back togher you can make sure your crank spines free after you torque your cases but either way would work just fine