Thack82

Why don't you guys keep your speculations and bull shit theory's to your self until Tim (unbiased consumer) gives his product review on the steel basket and the advantages and disadvantages. After all none of you know anything about the steel basket because you haven't had any experience running one. While I'm on this bull shit forum I want to clear a few things Zillafag is saying thats wrong in a attempt to make his self look smart. - The advantages I listed that the steel baskets have over aluminum baskets is straight off the Hinson Steel Basket web site item description. If you have a issue with them making false accusations associated with the steel clutch basket take it up with them. - If the thermal conductivity of a specific metal did by chance come into play on a clutch basket (which it wouldn't), billet aluminum is a better thermal conductor than steel. So it would be the exact opposite, aluminum would generate more heat. Thermal Conductivity Of Specific Metals: Silver 429 W/mK thermal conductivity Copper 401 Gold 310 Aluminum 250 Beryllium 218 Magnesium 156 Zinc Zn 116 Brass 109 Nickel 91 Iron 80 Platinum 70 Tin Sn 67 Steel 46 Antimony 18.5 Stainless Steel 16 Mercury 8 The stupidly and lack of education of 99% of the BHQ Members is comical, lol. Nice try Zilla!

If you got a Billet Handlebar mount for the Trail Tech that cheap you got a great deal! I installed mine in the Pad.

I took my Radiator off and had a threaded bung brazed in the side of it and screwed the sensor in there. Some of the Quads and Bikes actually have a temperature sensor bung in the radiator from the factory. It worked out good, I've been running my Trail Tech Vapor for over a year with without issue. I didn't like the idea of the plastic in-line temp sensor housing or the way the wires were going to be routed. I'd say the air cooled temperature sensor that goes under the spark plug would be accurate enough on the Banshee too as long as both cylinders are running real close.

I run the MAXXIS iRAZR's on the rear and MAXXIS Front-Pro's on my woods Banshee and I'm happy with the way they hook here in Kentucky where the soil has a lot of clay and lime stone content. My only complaint is their a little unpredictable in the corners under heavy throttle. Some times I feel like the bike might go one way and I might go the other. I haven't run them long enough to tell you guys how good their going to wear yet, but I'm hoping I get pretty good life out of them because they are expensive. It seems like most of you guys that do aggressive trail riding agree the iRAZR's are a pretty damn good tire. I made the comment a few weeks ago to few BHQ Members that I thought the iRAZR was a good tire for a Banshee that did aggressive woods and trail riding and they hooked really well in a woods/trail terrain. Loco told them they were JUNK and they were the worst tire you could ever put on a Banshee and the 2-Ply OHTSU MR-501 Stock Honda Radial Tires were best XC tire out there for the Banshee?? 2-Ply for a XC Bike?? Like you other woods riders I found that the iRAZRs do great in the woods and on hard pack terrain. IMO a 6-Ply tire is a must on trail racer unless you want to be setting on the side of a trail with a flat tire full of red thorns or a side wall with a gash in it. The sharpe limestone rocks on the trails around here will cut a 2-ply tire in a second. When I bought the iRAZRs I didn't know about the Duro Hook-Up's if I had I would have bought them because their half the price of the iRAZRs and I like the bigger lugs and open pattern. I just bough a full set to mount on a set of ITP T9's to go on my wife's Raptor 250 and I must say they are a pretty bad ass tire. I'm thinking about buying two new rear DWT Blue Labels and a set of the Hook-Up rears and cutting every other lug out of them for the KOI Trail Quad Class 200ft and 300ft Dirt Drags. Do any of you know any one that's cut a set of iRAZRs or Hook-Ups? If so how did they do?

These guys are right about a lot of these things. The Banshee does have a lot of bad faults that need to be addressed in order to be a competitive woods racer and you will all ways be limited by poor frame geometry unless you have a custom frame built. I built my 04 Banshee to compete in XC races and recreational trail ride and I can tell you from first hand experience that you have to be 100% dedicated to the build and have deep pockets. I've spent six years researching, testing, buying and selling different parts, and fixing all the weak links that will leave you setting on a hill side scratching your head. If you send me a PM I'll try to help you with any questions you have.

I thought I'd update a few of my old unanswered threads just encase somebody else is interested....... After searching the Internet for quite a while a found a company called Paragon Performance that makes a Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Nylon Coated Brake Line Kit in a few different colors for the Banshee that uses the stock hard lines. The Paragon Brake Line Kit's quality, fit, and appearance is second to none and I've had GREAT experience dealing with it. It is quite-a-bit more expensive (TOTAL - $118.00) than the Streamline Front Brake Line Kit (TOTAL - $69.95) but I feel like it's worth the extra money (+ $48.05). I ended up buying the Paragon Performance Smoked PTFE Nylon Coated Stainless Steel 3pc Banshee Brake Line Kit w/ New Billet Aluminum Junction Box ($118.00 Shipped) for the front and Streamline's +4" Smoked PTFE Nylon Coated Stainless Steel Braided Rear Brake Line ($ $28.45 Shipped) for the rear. The Smoked PTFE Coating matches perfectly between the two Paragon and Streamline Brake Lines. Paragon does offer a +4" rear Smoked PTFE Coated SS Braided Brake Line for the rear brake but the total cost on it is $45.00 which is over $16.00 more for the exact same component. I hope this information is useful for another member http://www.paragonperformance.com/banshee.html

I'm running two OEM Fuel Petcocks on my Stock Banshee Gas Tank and it works really good. vulvafan537240 is right if you for get to turn one ON or you have one set on RESERVE and the other set on ON you will fry a Cylinder. You also need to buy 2 new Reserve Petcock Straws/Filters and replace the longer ones that are used in the ON position. This helps make sure you don't have any issues with Reserve on one Petcock being ON and one being OFF and there only $1.19ea. I spent hours researching Yamaha Petcocks to find one that had the same Flow Rate that the Banshee Petcock for the Right Side of the fuel tank. Some of the Yamaha V-Star 1100cc Motorcycles have the same Fuel Petcock thats on the Banshee for the Right Side of the tank. I bought mine new off eBay for around $15.00. Tools Needed: Long Philips Head Screw Driver (Long Enough to toutch the Bottom of the Tank) Dremel Tool Drill Sand Paper (400 Grit & 1,000 Grit) 11/32 Drill Bit Another Bigger Drill Bit for the main Sump Hole (I can't remember the size of the drill bit needed) Supplies Needed: Yamaha 1100 V-Star Fuel Petcock (Right Side) (2) Short RESERVE Fuel Petcock Filter Straws (2) Stainless Steel 10mm Philips Head Bolts (2) 10mm Rubber Washers (2) 10mm Lock Nuts White Paint Marker Permatex Red Loctite Silicon or Gas Tank Repar Kit Carburator Cleaner Scotch Tape Paper Towls or Rags Torque Wrench Take the tank off and Clean it out good Sand the mounting sefice so it's flat and free of all imperfections Mark Drill Holes with White Paint Marker Drill Holes In Tank Apply a Small amout of Silicon on one side of Rubber Washer and put it on 10mm Bolts and let dry Lightly Tape Philips Head Bolts to Long Philips Head Screw Driver Apply Small Amount of Silicon to Mounting Serfice on Petcock and Petcock O-Ring Lay Petcock in Place Install mounting Bolts and Lock Nuts (Use Red Loctite on Lock Nuts) Torque Fuel Petcock Bolts to 22ft/lbs Clean Tank and check for Leaks (Be sure that no small peaces of Plastic from drilling are still in tank) Put Fuel Tank and Plastic back on quad I've been running the additional Fuel Petcock on my Banshee for 2+ years with no issues. I will try to remember to take a few pictures of the Dual OE Style Fuel Petcocks on my Banshee tonight and post them on this thread to help you out. Remember to take your time, message me if you have any problems. Good luck.

Do any of you guy's know of a 3 Peace Front Teflon Coated Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kit that utilizes the OE Hard Brake Lines? I hate to do away with the Hard Lines because they seem to be a good set up, there little and the wont expand and there routed good and that emanates any chance of them rubbing against something else and busting (Example - Steering Stabilizer) or wearing on something else. All of the SS Braided Front Brake Line Kits I'm seeing do away with the Hard Lines. Please let me know if you know of a company that makes a 3 peace Teflon Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kit . I will also need a new Threaded Line Conjunction Block so I can screw in a Braided Line up top to run to the Master Cylinder. I wouldn't be apposed to buying Single Braided Lines for a dirt bike or something else if they will attach to my Stock Hard Line Set Up, but I'd say I'm going to have a hard time finding a Short Line that's the right length to run from the Block to the Master Cylinder. Any input or help would be greatly appreciated. Thack82

I'm looking for a set of Used FMF Turbine Core II Silencers for a Banshee. Please get in touch with me if you have a set.

if you really want to be a Dick you said $100 or less? He has them listed for $110 on one site and $180 on another?

You guy's will do anything to throw me under the bus and try to discredit anything I say. I found a few No Name China Made Billet Bearing Carriers on eBay around $100. What Name Brand Billet Dual Row Bearing Carrier can be bought for less than $100? Heres the Carriers and Prices I see listed: Metal Tech - $199.99 LoneStar - $184.95 RPM - $262.50 Ace Fabrication - $220 Mod Quad - $167.00 JJ&A - $219.00 RAD - $274.95 Why did you tell another member on here a while back to buy a $200+ Billet Carrier for JJ&A a while back if a good Round House Billet Carrier can be bought for less than $100? Oh and SoCal thanks for contributing to this thread with your last post, I'm sure your input helped the guy that started this thread out a lot. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148537 guns4childrenWhere should I buy a Billet Carrier from? sprinklerman http://jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/p518.html

+3 Metal Tech Fabrication Heavy Duty .095" Oval Tube Chromoly Round House Swingarm w/ MTF Hard Anodized Dual Row Bearing Billet Carrier.

Does the $315 SoCal Quoted you include a Round House Billet Carrier? I just wanted to remind you that a Billet Carrier for the Round House Swingarms cost anywhere from $150 to $200 depending on who you buy it from.

I sent you a personal message and ask for pictures and a price. I didn't think I ever got a reply so I just thought you decided not to sell them. I might not be looking in the right place, the changes they've made to the Forum has messed me up a little. hp2000 you have a beautiful bike, I can't believe your considering selling you R2's. What do you plan on running if you sell them? This other guy is dead set on the R1's so he will probably be running the FMF Fatty's he has and be waiting a while. Sorry I didn't get back in touch with you, please keep a look out for a set of R1's and let me know if you run across a set. Thanks, Jim

Thanks for the help, I'm not trying to annoy you guys, I put together a pretty extensive Jet Kit for my 28mm PWK's and I didn't use but just a few Jets. I listed the Jets I had in my 28mm PWK Jet Kit Bellow, I only used the Jets that are highlighted in Red. I used the Both Pilots and155-158 mains when I ran the Paul Turners depending on the time of year and the temperature. When I went with the R2's I used the #52 Pilot and 160 and 165 Main Jets. I upgraded these New Mikuni 32mm Carbs to enhance the look of them and make them as efficient as possible. I ordered them from my buddy that owns a Performance ATV Shop and sent them to Mr. Bling and had him Polish them. I bought Chrome Plated Choke Knobs for both Carbs, Thunder Product's New INTELAJET Fuel Induction System, VIP - Velocity Intense Carburetor Slide Air Foils, and Chariot Performance's Over Size (+70%) Fuel Bowls. I also went ahead and bought the 30mm/35mm Pro-Design Rubber Boot's for Billet Intakes, 32mm/34mm UPP Racing's Rubber Air Box Boots, and new OEM Style Carburetor Boot Clamps from Mikes XS. My R2's Pipes are in West Virgina Right new getting Chrome Plated, I just want to make sure I have everything ready to go when I get them back. sprinklerman the Stock 102mm Non-Trenched Mattoon Billet Cases is the last Upgrade I need on my list after list last round of upgrades I ordered. I know I don't need them but damn I want them! I will have a set one day. Thanks for keeping a eye out for a set for me. My buddy that owns the Performance ATV Shop is a WPS Dealer and the Jets come in 4 packs and if I remember correctly there $10 a pack. I just wanted as much input on the Jetting as Possible so I could narrow my range of jets up a little. I'm going to take your advice and start with the ranges that you guys have recomended and I'm going to shoot Jeff at F.A.S.T. a email and see if he is in line with the recommendations you guys have made. Thanks for all your help. Jim Pilots #45 #48 #50 #52 #55 Mains 140 145 150 152 155 158 160 162 165 170 175 180 185 190

I wish you guys had told me he had a set of Chrome Plated R2's on my WTB R2 Pipes Thread. I looked for a set for almost 2 months before I finally found a Plater that would put a High Temp Declarative Triple Plated Finish on mine. I bought a set of black R2's off another BHQ Member because I couldn't find anyone selling a Chrome Set. Structurally they were in great shape but the Borrink's High Temp Black Finish was coming off. That really didn't bother me because I wanted to get them Chrome Plated to match my Polished Motor. I took them to work and Media Blasted everything off them, Cleaned the inside of them with Engine Degreaser, Brake and Parts Cleaner, and 94% Sulfuric Acid and used big industrial size Pipe Cleaners to scrub them out with a hour or longer flush cycle each chemical cleaning. I wiped the outside of them down with electric motor cleaner to remove any impurities from the out side of them and took pictures and started calling Chrome Platers. The pipes looked like they were brand new inside and out and the insides had no Carbon or 2-Stroke Oil build up as far as I could tell but half the Platers I called wouldn't Chrome plate them because they were used and they didn't want to chance contaminating there acid tanks (Even after I emailed them detailed pictures of the pipes with no contaminates). The other half of the Platers wanted $750+ to Plate them with high temp Triple Plated Declarative Chrome. So against my better judgment I sent them to a Powder Coater and had them Powder Coated with a High Temp "Reflective Chrome" with hopes that it would look like Chrome or at least be as shiny as Nickel Plating like the FMF Pipes have. I got them back and they looked like they were Powder Coated Silver. So I gave my Dad a call, he's the Purchasing Manager at Link-Belt Construction Equipment and he deals with a ton of Machine Shops and Platers of all kinds. I ask him to ask around and see if one of his guy could help me get them plated. He called Tri-State Plating in West Virgina and ask the head guy if they would help me out. They told him to have me ship them up there and they would take care of the Pipes and Mid Pipes for me as a favor. I cant wait until I get them back on and see how they run with my New 32mm Mikuni TM Carburetors (With Thunder Products INTELAJET Fuel Induction System and Chariot Racing's Over Sized Fuel Bowls) that were Show Polished by Mr. Bling. I think they will turn out awesome Tri-State Plating mainly plates Motorcycle Parts and Exhaust. They have a unique automated 7 layer High Temp Plating Process that insures the absolute best High Temp Chrome Finish for exhaust systems. Supposedly no other plating company in the United States can do. The guy I talked to on the phone told me that he has a lot of Harley and Custom Chopper Owners that buy Brand New Bikes or Brand new High Performance Exhaust Systems that are already Chrome Plated and send there stuff to them and have them strip them back down to a bare finish and Re-Plate it. They guarantee there High Temp Declarative Plating to be Blue Resistant up to 1,600°F and five times more durable than other Triple Plating Process even OEM Plating. I looked up the Maximum Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) for most two stroke engines on the internet and they claim no two stroke should run EGT's any hotter than 1200°F to 1300°F, so the plating on my R2's shouldn't have any bluing on them at all. I guess we will see.

I'm interested. How much? Can you send me a Picture so I can get a Idea of the Condition?

No, I'm just grasping at straws honestly, I hate to buy a bunch of jets (because the come in 4 packs) that are to far in aether direction that I'll never use. When I put my 28mm PWK's and built my Serval on you guy's gave me a range of 50 to 52 Pilots and 155 to 165 Mains. I've had the other Thread posted for a couple of weeks and I can't get anybody to post a Range that I should be in. That's what I'm hoping I'll get.

Damn SAVAGE, you tried to sell me a set a while back, were you going to rip me off??? Just JK! Rocket R1's and R2's are different from most Pipe Set Up's, it seems like people that have run them say there AWESOME or they SUCK. I think a lot of it has to do with the way your motor is set up and the Cylinders your running. I put a set of R2's on my Banshee and I love them, hands down the best pipe I've ever ran and I have tried about six or seven different kinds over the past five or six years (No I haven't tried Shearers). Hell, most people compare the Rocket Pipe's to the Shearers and it seems like everybody loves them, so why do so many people hate the Rockets? One of my best friends owns Withrow Powersports in Lawrenceburg Kentucky, every time he had a Banshee in and had it down we would throw the pipes on mine and bump the Main Jet up or down and run it up and down the road a few times. I've got a list I'll past on here off a old email, hold on a minute....... Paul Turner Mids (Great Pipes make huge amounts of low end torque but the Power Band falls off pretty quick) FMF Fatty's w/ Turbine Core Silencers (Good all around Pipe, Really Like the way the Turbine Core Silencers sound) FMF SST's w/ Power Core II Silencers (Okay Pipes with good bottom end but weak up top) Pro Circuit Pipes (Good Bottom/Mid Range) CPI (NO Bottom End) Toomey T5's (About the same as the FMF Fatty, maybe not quit as strong in the Power Band) I really did like the Paul Turners, that what I actually ran on my Banshee. They made nasty low end torque. You could lug it around out side of the Power Band like a 4-Stroke but the power they made in the Power Band with my new set up was unusable. All it wanted to do was spin. and they held back tons of top end power. I like the R2's because I don't feel that I lost any Low end like I did on the CPI's and some of the other Pipes and it pulls HARD in the mid and top. On my Banshee the R2's feel like the Pro Circuit and the CPI hooked up and had a baby and the result was the R2 Pipes. I think the Carburetors that you run in conjunction with the Rocket Pipes play a big part, and I just don't think Stock Banshee Cylinders Ported, Bored or whatever can handle them, it's just to much pipe for a motor that's moving a small amount of air slowly. IMO !!! I think the Rocket Pipes work best on Banshees with 32mm-36mm Carburetors and Aftermarket Ported Cylinder's that have more Ports, better Port Mapping/Timing, with bigger cc Displacement like the Serval, Cheetah, or some other similar cyl set ups. Anyway please let me know if you run across a set of R1's. I fucked up when I didn't buy Savage's, they were nice Pipes and I could have made about $300 on them if I had went ahead and bought them. One things for sure they aren't making anymore, so they will most likely be Hell find. Thanks, Thack82

Please help me out, I've been trying to get input on a Jetting Starting Point to use with my new 32mm Mikuni TM Series Flat-Slide Carburetors and I'm not getting any feed back. Am I the only one running 32mm Mikuni TM Carb's with R2 Pipes? My Motor is a F.A.S.T. Ported 68mm SS Serval with Chariot Billet Reed Cages/Spacers, Boyesen Power Reeds, Pro-Design Billet Intakes, Pro Flow Air Box Adapter with K&N Filter, and a EHS Air Box Lid Insert - Equivalent to running NO Air Box Lid. * Elevation is 740ft to 780ft above Sea Level I was running Twin 28mm Keihin PWK Carburetors with #52 Pilot Jets and 165 Main Jets. I did have one guy tell me he thought I should start at a 35 Pilot and 290 Mains but that sounded way to lean!!! When I had Stock Cylinder's and Paul Turner Mid Pipes with the Stock Mikuni VM 26mm Carburetors I ran a 32 Pilots and 330 Main Jets. Please help me out if you can, I need input on this. I've heard of a Web Site that has a Keihin To Mikuni/Mikuni To Keihin Jet Size/Number Conversion Chart. If it does exist that would be very helpful. I figure I could bank on jumping the Main up about about one size for every 2mm of Carburetor Size increase and that would get me at a good starting point. Please get back with me and let me know what you guys think. Thank You, Jim

I'm trying to help a friend of mine find a Vito's Hemi Head and a set of the Original Rocket R1 Pipe's and Silencers for a 68mm Athena Big Bore build he's doing on his Banshee. Please let me know if you or someone you know has a set of R1 Pipes/Silencers or the Vito's Hemi Cool Head. It would be nice if the head had Vito's Big Bore Domes but its fine if it doesn't. He can order a new set. Thank You, Thack82

I'm trying to help a friend of mine find a set of the Original Rocket R1 Pipe's and Silencers and a Vito's Hemi Head for a 68mm Athena Big Bore build he's doing on his Banshee. Please let me know if you or someone you know has a set of R1 Pipes/Silencers or the Vito's Hemi Cool Head. It would be nice if the head had Vito's Big Bore Domes but its fine if it doesn't. He can order a new set. Thank You, Thack82

I have a Friend of mine that's building his Banshee and he's looking for a set of the Original Rocket Pipes to go on his Port/Polished 68mm Athena Big Bore Cylinders. Please let me know if you have a set or know of somebody that has a set that they want to sell. Thank You, Thack82

That sound a little lean to me. When I was running my Stock Carburetors on my Stock Non-Ported Cylinders I was running 32 Pilots and 330 Mains.

Did you ever end up buying new Black and Red Plastic? I remember when the Black and Yellow 2003 Special Edition Yamaha Banshee came out, my girl friend's older brother at the time bought a brand new one. I loved the OEM Yamaha Plastic Layout and Graphics on that Banshee. Years about seven years later I bought a 2004 Special Edition Banshee and I wanted the 2003 Special Edition Plastic and Graphics but I had a Red Frame. I decided to sell my White OE Yamaha Plastic and buy a new set of Maier Plastic and replace everything that was Yellow on the 2003SE to Red. Then I got on Part Shark and ordered each individual graphic that was on the 2003 Banshee SE (Because Yamaha Doesn't offer it as a Full Kit) and take it somewhere and have a Replica Graphic Kit made with Red taking the place of the Yellow. IMO it turned out great, looking back on it it would have been a lot easier to just tare it down and have the Frame Sand Blasted and Powder Coated Black, but its one of a kind. I pasted a old picture that was taken back in the summer bellow. I have a bunch of new upgrades on the way, and my R2's are at the Plater's getting Triple Plated Chrome. I'll post more pictures after it's done if you would like. That is if I can get anything to upload, they've made it hard as hell to post images on here anymore.