Thack82

Or you can swap them over to the other side of the reed cages and you will gain more top end than you bike had previously. Thats what Reed Cages Spacers are made for, they allow you to have a form of adjustment for your Power Band. If you put them in front of your Reed Cages you will gain bottom end. If you put them behind your Reed cages you will gain top end. Try that and see if it helps.

Zilla I'm not trying to start shit but have you seen my complete build sheet? I have advanced my timing and a upgraded ignition system will add horse power. I know 99.9% BHQ members say a boost bottle doesn't add power but I seen dyno charts where builders have proven they add about 1.2 horse power over a set of intakes that don't have a boost bottle. I know thats a tiny amount of Horse Power and I doubt you can even feel it, but they do add some horse power. If I can find the test and R&D I'll paste it on here. I believe Duncan did it. I need to past a complete engine mod list on here as well, I'll try to get it up tonight. The reasion I thought my House power would be more than originally anticipated was not so much in the extra performance parts I added but the Case work and the squish difference. Like I said I'm not trying to start a pissing match but things you say don't always make sense.

I don't know about the pipes restricting Horse Power.... Thats the way Banshee guys are they hate them or they love them. I will say that the Paul Turner Pipes and Fat Boy II Silencers make a Banshee react completely different than any other pipe. I've rode with other Banshees with Toomy's and Sheers. The Serval makes the best power on R2's fro what I've read those pipes are supposed to be awesome all around pipes. I wouldn't think the PT's would do to bad, Duncan makes the ELIMINATOR 500cc Mono Block set up and they run the PT's on it. Thanks for your input. I think I'm going to end up going with the same set up Roots has on his Banshee. I think that set up will take a beating.

Maybe I shouldn't have given an estimated number. Jeff told me the set up he put together would be in the high 80's he thought with the current bolt ons I had. I decided to add the following mods to my motor in addition to the list that he had: Pro-Design 28mm Billet Intakes with Boost Bottle. Electro Sport 250 Watt Stator. RMStator Upgraded Flywheel with Stronger magnets Dyna-Tek Programable CDI Box Dyna-Tek Coil Accell 8.8mm Moto Racing Spark Plug wires I also had Withrow Power Sports Bore the Cases for more Horse Power and the Trinity Domes ended up having only 38 thousandths clearance VS the estimated 45 to 50 thousandths clearance so the the motor is a little tighter than we originally thought it was going to be so I had to bump my fuel from 93 Octane Pump Gas to a 110/93 Mix. So I'm not sure but I've had two 2 Stroke mechanics say that was probably pretty close but gangstahic seems to think he knows more than they do so I don't know. I don't have a Dyno sheet on the bike at this time. As far as the Hydraulic lever goes it was a bitch to get adjusted perfectly and bled out. I ended up having to go to the hard ware store and buy a 3" long piece of standard thread stainless hex and re-tap the treads with a 6mm tap and cut it down to a 1.5" long piece. Then I cut a 1 piece of 6mm all thread and covered in in Permatex Loc-Tite and screwed it into attachment arm. This made the arm 1.5 inches longer and allowed to to pull the adjustment to the desired location. When I got finished you couldn't even tell that I had modded it. Then I ended up having to use a electric vacuum pump to pull the Mineral oil up into the lines and got it bled. The first few times I rode I had to add a little oil to the Master cylinder but after that my lever has been problem free. I run a Low end set up that has a lot of low end mods that produce a shit load of low end torque for trail riding and woods racing. The power band was just to short with 13/42 gearing and I couldn't utilize the power band. It was great in the woods but I would get my ass eaten alive in the open fields so I jumped to 15/42 gearing and my Banshee was a whole new animal. The tall gearing combined with the low end torque and my riding style is hell on clutches. Now I have this Serval Mono Block Cylinder Set up and I think its just to much for the clutch without a Lock Up. Thanks for you input.

I think he actually said high 80's to tell the truth, but I put a whole Dyna-tek Ignition System Coil, Programmable CDI, Accell 8.8mm Moto Racing Spark Plug Wires, 250 watt Stator, Upgraded fly Wheel, and and quite a few other things on there after he made that comment, plus the squish ended up coming out about 38 thousandths and he had estimated that I would have between 45 and 50 thousandths so that bumped me up some. I have just about everything done to the motor that can possibly be done other than a stroker crank of some sort and this is a XC Set Up thats made to come on at a low RPM and be reliable. It was just a estimation, and my Mechanic Matt Withrow who Races MX Pro A on a YZF-125 that is also a graduate from A.M.I. American Motorcycle Institute with certifications in Performance 2 Stroke Engines and ATV, UTV, and Dirt Bike and Motorcycle Racing Suspension along with a stack of others said it would be close to that as well. I don't have any Dyno numbers and it might not put down numbers that high but I don't think your qualified to say what it will or wont put down, and I don't think your going to hear anybody on BHQ or anywhere say Jeff Doesn't know what hes doing and he has the Dyno numbers on similar set ups like mine. I don't know who set you Serval up or what kind of job they do but F.A.S.T. is top of the line.

Okay I just got a email back from the Slingshot guy. His Lock up that fits behind the stock cover is $295.00 plus shipping VS the $199.99 Shipped for the Drive Line equivalent. What do you guys honesty think? I figured if I decided to go with the Drive Line Lock Up I would go ahead and buy a new Clutch kit and install it while I was in there. Drive Line just developed a new Dune & Trail 8 Plate Extreme Clutch Kit thats supposed to be the shit... There Heavy Duty Trail and Track OEM Style Set up with Super Stiff springs (A Hydraulic Clutch Lever Is Required) is $62.00 This new 8 Plate Set Up is almost $95.00 by the time you get it shipped. I'm thinking thats my best option though, I have always had great luck out of Drive Line Products and there Customer Service is outstanding. I can get this new 8 Plate Upgraded Kit and the Billet Lock Up shipped for the same amount of money that the Slingshots going to set me back. Jeff at F.A.S.T. said I should be able to upgrade my Inner and Outer Clutch Hubs and solve this problem but the Hinson Kit I looked at was over $900.00 and I could still have issues. Is there a down side to running a Lock Up? Can it make the Bike hard to shift or something. I haven't got a reply back from Jeff yet but there has to be a reason why he would recommend a a Hub set up that cost nearly three times more than the Lock Up and the new 8 Plate Drive Line Clutch Kit. He's brilliant when it comes to ATV set ups and Banshee Performance. His stock stoke motors Dyno right up there with everybody elses 4mil set ups. I'm hell on a clutch to begin with I run Hare Scrambles and Woods Race my Banshee and I prefer a tall gear. I run 15/42 Sprockets on the stock .020 Cylinder Set Up. I did have a issue one time running Klotz Flex Drive 30. About half way through a race my 2 Week Old 75HP Rated Drive Line Clutch started slipping and it continually go worse as the race went on. When I got back to work on Monday I called Drive Line and I told them that I was slipping there 75HP set upand I knew there was no way I was putting down 75+HP on my bike with NO Port Work, Stock Cylinders with a .020 Punch. I am a huge Fan of Klotz Super Techno-Plate 2-Stroke Oil and I just assumed the $18.00 a quart Flex Drive was as good as you could get. They told me to get that shit out of there and run Mobil-1 10W-30 Motor Oil. I did and it solved the problem. I knew that you had to be very careful and make absolute sure that you didn't run any oil with a Friction Inhibitor in the Transmission because it would cause the clutch to slip. So I called Mobil-1's Tech Line and ask them if there 10W-30 had any Friction Inhibitors in it and they said it did so I switched over to Lucas Full Synthetic 5W-30 Performance/Racing 2-Stroke Motorcycle and Dirt Bike Oil that was safe for ALL Wet Clutch Applications for both 2 and 4 Stroke Engines and it has worked awesome. I was up in the air between the Lucas and AMS Oil Dominator and I decided to go with the Lucas because it was readily available and on the shelf at the O'Rielly's Auto Parts Store thats less than a mile from my house and it only cost $7.79 per quart. I have had Transmission or Clutch Problems running the Lucas Plus 3oz of Two2Cool (ATV Transmission Cooling Additive thats Safe for Wet Clutches). I change it about every four to six months depending on whats been going on and alot of the time the Oil is almost a light Syrup Color. This Is the Transmission Oil I run: And I run about 3-4 OZ of this Cooling Additive along with it: Come on Surly somebody has a Lock Up Laying around that there not using out of a Banshee they've parted out or something that they can save me some money on. I just don't know how much more money I can spend.... But I've got it this far without cutting any corners and its way to late to start!!! Anyways keep the input coming, I plan on buying the upgrade I decide to use to fix the clutch slipping problem the beginning of next week. So far I'm leaning towards the Dive Line Dune & Trail 8 Plate Extreme Clutch Kit with R-1 Friction Plates and the Stiffest Springs they offer coupled with the Drive Line Lock Up that fits behind the OEM Style Case.... For $295.00 I'm thinking thats my best choice. I would like to run upon a Aftermarket Pressure Plate to hold it all in my Barnett Billet Clutch Basket but I don't know if you can buy it separate or if the Inner and outer Hubs have to be purchased with it. I would buy the Hub and Pressure Plate Kit too if i could find one for the money. All this POWER and no way to get it to the ground is pissing me off!!! Lucas HD Primary Chaincase Oil Lucas HD Primary Chaincase Oil is a blend of easy flowing base oils and a Lucas additive package designed to carry away more heat from the clutch plates and friction plates. This assures a longer more trouble clutch life. Expect a smooth clutch action, less slippage, longer chain and sprocket life and a much longer oil life. Benefits - Cool & Quiets - Designed for heavy duty high performance situations. - Meets or exceeds all OEM requirements Remember Primary Chaincase Oil is a coolant for the clutch, not a lubricant. Packaging Part #: 10790 - 1 quart - 32 fl. oz. US

Okay the new Serval Cub is on tuned and Broke in. Jeff at F.A.S.T. did a great job helping me out with this XC Set Up, and Withrow Power Sports did a unbelievable job on the Fine Tuning and Carburetor Jetting. Now I'm back to the same problems I was having back last winter, I'm Slipping my Clutch . I have a Drive Line Trail and Track Clutch with the YZF/R1 Friction Plates and the stiffest clutch springs available its supposed to be good for 80 Horse Power... I have that coupled with a Stream-Line Hydraulic Clutch/Slave/Master Cylinder, and a Barnett Billet Clutch Basket. and when I light into it and she hits the Power Band it slips pretty bad. So I guess its time to buy a Lock Up! I like the guys at Drive Line they have helped me work through this problem once before and there clutches are priced great and perform very well. Jeff estimated my motor to have 95+- Horse Power so I I'm sure thats the problem I'm putting out to much horse power for my existing clutch set up. I want to buy the lock up that fits in the OEM size Clutch Case because I just got through aether buying new Polished upgrades or Polishing my existing mods to a near show finish. Lane at Drive Line emailed me and told me that they made a Clutch Lock Up that would fit behind the OEM Clutch Case, its $199.99 Shipped. Do any of you guys have any experience with the Drive Line Lock Ups? Or even Better do any of you have a used Lock up that fits behind the OEM Clutch Cover you can cut me a deal on? Please let me know if you have one and what you want for it. Thanks, Thack82

I'll post a picture later, so you can see what I'm talking about. I think theres something missing.

----------------Engine------------- Cylinders: Polished 392cc Serval Cub Crank: Hotrods Forged Replacment Pistons: Trinity Exclusive High Compression Forged Pro-Lite Pistons Port Work: Aggressive Trail Port By Jeff At F.A.S.T Timing: +4° Plugs: E3 Performance Spark Plugs Wires: Accell 8.8mm Racing Spark Plug Wires Reeds: Boyesen Power Reeds in Chariot Billet Cages, with .5 inch Billet Reed Spacers Intakes: 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes Boost Bottle: Pro-Design Billet Boost Bottle Ignition: Dyna-Tek Performance Coil, Dyna-Tek Programmable CDI, Upgraded 14 Gauge Wire from Stator to Coil Stator: Electro-Sport High Output 250 Watt Stator Flywheel: RM-Stator High Output Flywheel (Stock size and weight with super strong magnets) Carburetors: Keihin 28mm PWK "D" Slide Carburetors (160 DG Main Jets and #50 Pilots) Exhaust: Paul Turner Mids and Fat Boy II Silencers Air Intake: Modded OEM Air Box With Pro-Flow Billet Adapter, EHS/Outerwears Lid and Snorkel Booty, Pro-Design Mass-Flow Air Filter Kit, and Rubber Drain Cover Head: Trinity Stage IV Cool Head with 21cc Domes Cooling Modifications: 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Cover/Plate Housing and Impeller, Three Mod Quad 2" Inline Coolers/One with Temp Gauge, Mull Billet Water Pump Gear, Red ASI Silicon Hoses, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap Lubricants Used: (Ounces/Gallon Occasionally: Klotz Octane Booster (1/1) Marvel's Mystery Oil (2/1) Motor-Koat Super Lubricant (1/1) 100 Octane Aviation Fuel (50/50) Every Time: Klotz Super TechnoPlate Full Synthetic 20% Caster 2 Stroke Oil (32/1) 93 Octane Pump Gas Blue Engine Ice with Royal Purple's "Purple Ice" Estamated Horse Power & Torque = 80-90 Horse Power/ 65-75 Foot Pounds of Torque -----------Transmission----------- Clutch: Drive Line Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch with Stiffer Springs (YFZ-1000 Friction Plates ) Clutch Basket: Barnett Billet Clutch Basket Shift Star: Stock Non Modified Clutch Lever: Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Lever with Billet Slave Cylinder and Stainless Steel Braided Clear Plastic coated Line Shifter: Mod Quad Break Away Short Shifter Gearing: 15/42 (15 Tooth Front East Coast ATV Sprocket and 42 Tooth East Coast ATV Rear Sprocket) Lubricants Used: <br style="font-weight:bold;"> Klotz Flex-Drive 30 Streamline Synthetic Mineral Oil -------------Suspension------------- A Arms: Full Flight +3+1 Silver Vein A Arms (For YFZ-450 Shocks) With 12 Point Adjustable Chromoly Heim Joints Tie Rods: Full Flight + 3 Tie Rods with Tusk HD Tie Rod Ends Handle Bars: Fly Silicon filled Chrome Handle Bars with Pro Taper Grips Front Shocks: 2006 Yamaha YFZ-450SE Silver Nitrogen Shocks (Rebuilt By GT Thunder And Set Up For Yamaha Banshee With 225lb Rider) Rear Shock: OEM YFZ-350 Silver Nitrogen Shock (Upgraded and Rebuilt By GT Thunder For 225lb Rider) Spindles: 2010 Yamaha YFZ-450 Yamaha Spindles Hubs: 2010 YFZ-450R Hobs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings, The rears are OEM YFZ-350 Hubs with Upgraded All Ball's Bearings Steering Stem: Lone Star +2 YFZ-450R Steering Stem with Lone Star Flag Brakes: YFZ450R Dual Piston Front Brake Calipers With Factory Spec Pads in the Front And YFZ-450R Rear Caliper with Factory Spec Rotor and Pads Axle: Forward PowerSports +1+1 Heavy Duty Forged Rear Axle with Duncan Dual Locking Axle Nuts Swing Arm: +2 Aluminum OEM Style Swing Arm With OEM Style Carrier with All Ball's Upgraded Bearings Wheels: ITP T-9 Deep Dish 9X11 Polished Aluminum Rear Wheels with Bend Rings and Polished Aluminum 10X7 Douglas Yellow Label Front Wheels Tires: Nitrogen Filled Super Grip AA1 6 Ply 20X11-9 in the Rear and Nitrogen Filled Super Grips 6 Ply 21X7-10 in the Front (RAZR Knock offs) Lubricants Used: Super Syn Synthetic Grease<br style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);">Prestone DOT-4 Synthetic Brake Fluid Nitrogen Filled By S&S Tire <br style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);"> --------------------Other-----------------<br style="color:rgb(64, 0, 127);"> Skid Plates: DG Baja Series Full Body Skid Plates Swing Arm and Belly. Qualex Custom a arm Skid Plates Guards: DG Front and Side Frame Guard, and Maier Rear Rotor Guard, Shark Performance Brake Line Clamps Bumpers: Qualex Forged Steel OEM Replica Front Bumper and DG Alloy Series Aluminum Rear Bumper Nerf Bars: DG Fat Boy Series Nerf Bars Gauges: Mod-Quad 3" Billet In-Line Cooler with Temp Gauge, Trail Tech Vapor Handle Bar Dash Board/Billet Pod (Speedometer, Tach, Distance functions, Temp Gauge, Clock) Harness: OEM YFZ-350 Banshee Wiring Harness in D.E.I Fire Proof Sleeve Hoses: All ASI and HELIX Silicon Hoses with Accell Heat Resistant Protective Braided Loom and heat Springs. Fuel Lines are Mr. Gasket Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Lines Tether: Pro-Armor Universal Pull Tether ----------------------Appearance-------------------- Plastic: New Black OEM Style Maier Rear Plastic and New Red Maier Font Fenders with Black Tank Covers and Silver Radiator Cover Graphics: 2003 Yamaha Banshee Limited Edition OEM Replica G

Okay as a lot of you probably already know I've broke my 04 Banshee down and upgraded a lot of stuff after I burned the ring on my right cylinder riding at Wind Rock OHV riding with some buddies in June. I've just about got everything back together and ready to Trail Ride and compete in a few fall Hare scrambles. I took my Swing Arm & Floor Boards off and sent them to B&B Powder coating and had them Media Blasted/Stripped and Powder Coated Bright Metallic Silver and put a All Ball's Swing Arm Bearing Rebuild Kit in it. When I got it back together and got the chain back on I noticed a Stud sticking out of the frame with a bushing on it right bellow the top Swing Arm Chain Roller. I never had noticed this before maybe because it was under the Chain......... Is that what that Stud with a Bushing on it is.. a Chain Roller? Does the chain go on top of or bellow this? Is there supposed to be some kind of Nylon Roller on this Stud? I circled the area in an old picture of my Banshee where this part is located and pasted it bellow. If you guys don't mind please take a look at the circled area in the picture and answer the question above. Thanks, Jim

I've just about finished my 04 Yamaha Banshee XC build and I need your help with a Rear Brake Caliper Question I have. I'm running Stock OEM YFZ-450 Front Calipers and Brake Lines, Stainless Steel Factory Spec Rotors, and Factory Spec Semi-metallic Brake Pads. In the Rear I was running the stock Banshee Rear Brake set up with a Billet Brake Fluid Reservoir, Billet Parking Brake Block Off Plate , and Factory Spec Rear Rotor and Brake Pads. I took my Swing arm off and sent it to B&B Powder Coating and had it Sand Blasted, Stripped, and Powder Coated Silver. When I cot it back I replaced all the Bearings Carrier, and Front Swing Arm Bearing Kit with new All Ball's Performance Bearings. When I got read to reinstall the rear Brake Caliper it had seized up tight. I cracked the bleeder and tried to push the Pistons back but I didn't get any where. To make a long story short I ended up destroying the Caliper. So now I'm looking for a new rear Brake Caliper for a decent price. all of them I'm running across are $100+, but I did find a 2003 660R Raptor caliper on eBay in great shape for $60 shipped. So here are the questions I need answered: Will The 2003 Yamaha 660R Raptor Brake Caliper Work on my 2004 Yamaha Banshee? Will a YFZ-450 Brake Caliper Work on My 2004 Banshee? Is The Any Advantage Running The YFZ Caliper VS The Banshee Caliper? Please get back with me on this as soon as possible. I need to get a Caliper ordered so I can ride next weekend. Thanks again guys for all your help.

Well Guys I'm well on my way getting my New Polished Seval Cub back in my Banshee. I have turned a one night job into a every night this week job. I'm very meticulous when it comes to the Banshee and all my other Vehicle's. Heres what it looks like. I went ahead and put a few other upgrades on my bike while I was doing this build. I listed them bellow Red ASV Silicon Hoses 28mm Pro-Design Billet Intakes (with Boost Bottle) Polished left side Case Cover New PTR Exhaust Clamps Dyna-Tek Ignition Coil Dyna-Tek Programmable CDI New Accell 8.8mm Motor Cycle and ATV Racing Spark Plug Wires Polished Choke Knobs Shark Racing Billet Clamps Duncan Racing Rear Billet Brake Reservoir Mod-Quad Billet Cooler with Gauge Goodridge 1/4" ID Stainless Steel Braided ATV Fuel Line Kit Wiring Harness Design Engineering Fire Resistant Aluminized Sleeve Design Engineering Red Heat Protection Small Hose Loom OEM Heat Shield Spring for other Radiator Hose (I highly recommend you get a second hose spring if your running Paul Turner Pipes) I went ahead and added a second Fuel Petcock and installed it on the left side of the fuel tank so both Carburetors would have there own straw. I spent about a day research the internet for a OEM Yamaha Fuel Petcock that had the same flow rate as the Banshee's Fuel Petcock that had the outlet facing in the opposite direction and I finally found one. The Yamaha V-Star 1300 has a fuel Petcock with the same flow rate as the Banshee for those of you who are thinking about adding a second OE Style Fuel Petcock. After looking at the pictures I need to take both Petcock covers off and give them a good polishing job. After I get it fine tuned I'm going to get back to the 12V Electric Fan set up. If I can get that figured out that just leaves me with a few more things I would like to add. Trail Tech Vapor and Billet Handle Bar Pod 250 Watt Stator High Output Flywheel (more magnets) Maybe I'll add those Mods to my Christmas list. Thanks again guys for all you help.

I planned on using one of the clamps in the area circled in the picture bellow to hold my Hydraulic Clutch Cable to prevent it from flopping around and getting burned by the hot pipes or something else:

I'm in the process of rebuilding my entire Banshee and I'm bad close I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I bought two pair of Shark Racing's Billet Brake Line Clamps for my Banshee off eBay and there to damn small! So I gave them to my Maintenance Guy's here at work and ask the to bore the holes bigger but I forgot to measure the Frame tubing diameter. So I need one of you Banshee experts to get that information for me as soon as possible. This is the Clamp Kit that I bought: Yamaha Banshee Brake line clamps .750 dia This a manufacture close out sell. When this lot is sold. That is it! So buy a few. LAST LOT SO BUY NOW SquareTrade © AP6.0This is a brand new Billet Aluminin Shark Racing set of brake line clamps for all .750 dia A arms, almost all after market a arms. But check your first. For warranty info please see sharkracing.biz Also, Check out my ebay store. 1

Thanks again for all your help, going through Jeff at F.A.S.T. when buying my set up was the best decision I made, and he beat everyone else on pricing by quite a bit . I plan on getting my bike back together this weekend. I just received my box of parts from F.A.S.T. yesterday and everything looks unbelievable. Jeff said this was the first set up like this that he had put together so I'm anxious to see how it runs. I set my Cool head on the cylinders yesterday and took a picture. I will be posting more pictures and updating you guys on my progress as I put it together......

I don't know that may be true. I have a Z06 Corvette and a Z28 Camaro, and back a few years ago I flushed the Radiator on the Camaro and replaced it with Long Life Green Antifreeze and after about 300 miles the water pump went out. When I took it to the shop to have it replaced the mechanic told me that the water pump bearings went out because I didn't run a antifreeze with DEX-COOL. DEX-COOL has a lubricant in it that lubricates the water pump bearings. So I thought I'd add DEX-COOL to my mix to give it a antifreeze agent for winter riding. If everything goes together right I think I've found a 12V Electric Radiator Fan that will work on the Banshee with the Over Sized Aluminum Radiator and Stock Stator. I have spent hours up on hours searching the internet for a 12V Radiator Fan that will fit behind a Over-Sized Radiator and in front of the steering stem that does not require you to modify the frame or plastic or run the Maier Custom Plastic. If everything goes as planned I'll post pictures and other information.

It just seems like every time I post something on here giving someone my input or ask for someones input on something you start in on me. I never said that my suspension was the very best suspension I only said that I liked it and it was a awesome suspension set up for the money. I run my Banshee in a completely different environment than you do and my competition is also a lot different. I'm not on here to make enemies and fight with people about my bike VS your bike or this mods better than your mod and so on. That being said I'm sure you have a vast amount of knowledge when it comes to the Banshee and I would like to get this set up running strong. What jets would you have been running in my old stock cylinder set up at 740 to 780 feet above sea level? I have the following DG Jets in my jet kit for the Keihin 28mm "D" Slide Carburetors- Mains: 130 X 2 140 X 2 145 X 2 150 X 2 160 X 2 170 X 2 175 X 2 180 X 2 190 X 2 200 X 2 Pilots: #48 #50 I plan on going to Derby Cycle's this week and buying a set od DG 135's, 155's, 165's, 185's and 195's. At $350 each I would rather have them in my kit and not need them than need them and not have them.

I run Keihin 28mm "D" Slides with#50 Pilots and 150 Mains, I run the Stock Air Box with with a Ready Foam Filter, and the EHS Outerwears lid. The Elevation I ride at is between 740 and 780 Feet above sea level. When I installed the Carburetors I started with a 160 Main Jet and it chocked it out so I backed sown to the 150 and it seemed to be fine. I guess I should have bought a 155 or 158 and tried it. I thought the Radiator cap might have been the problem so I bought a CV-4 and it didn't do any better and the same deal with the radiator. MattSCSS why don't you get off my case, don't you have anything better to do then stalk me on BHQ and put me down? You've made your point, so give it a break. I know in your eyes my Banshee is junk and and you don't like anything about it. I'm a bigger rider but not 550lbs, I'm 6'2" and I weigh around 218lbs. Theres times in these Endurance Races when you end up hung on a tree root or hung in a rut, when you hammer down in it and your spinning and the bike is moving very little or none at all, it only takes about five seconds before it would start blowing coolant. Thats why I was considering a fan set up of some type.