Thack82

Oh yea, mabe you guys can answer this question for me too. What is the difference between a oil cooler and a radiator other that the obvious ones made for oil cooling and ones made for coolant?

Okay Guys, Jeff at F.A.S.T. is putting me together a Polished Stock Stroke 392cc Serval. I'm going to have a ton invested in this XC Banshee Motor by the time it's done and I want to make sure it performs and hold up. I've fixed most of the week links associated with a Banshee that prevent it from being a dominate Woods Racer like the suspension, and this Small Mono Block Serval combined with all my bolt on upgrades should give me the low end grunt I'm looking for. The main problem I had with the Stock .020 Cylinders was keeping it cool running that hard through the woods for that long. Any time it was above 70° it got hot and started blowing coolant out of the over flow. I know what you guys are thinking, just buy a Bigger Fluidyne Radiator, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap, Billet water Pump, Twin Billet 3" In-line Coolers, Silicon Hose Kit, Cool Head, and run ATV Engine Ice. I have every single cooling upgrade I can find for the Banshee and it still gets hot. I took it to the Local Yamaha Dealer "Lee's Yamaha, Kawasaki, and Suzuki" and had there head Yamaha Mechanic check my jetting to insure that it wasn't overheating do to lean or rich fueling conditions, and I I've tried every Octane Fuel 32:1 Klotz mixture from 93 Pump gas and 110 . I've done just about everything I can think of and I am extremely paranoid of overheating this new Serval. So this is what I'm into. I took the front plastic, radiator, and gas tank off to get an accurate measurement of the space behind the Fluidyne Radiator and the steering stem. With the new Radiator in the stock mounting location I have 1/2 an inch to fit a 7" X 7" Electric Fan "Puller" I researched the entire Internet for two days straight and the thinnest Electric fan made is Fluidynes 7" X 7" X 2.05 Ultra Thin Puller Fan. So I measured to see how far I could move the fan forward and still make it fit correctly behind the stock style radiator plastic cover. I can move it out about a 1/2 inch, so that gives me 1" of clearance between the Steering Stem and the back of the radiator. So I've come to the conclusion that its impossible to mount a electric fan directly to the back side of the radiator and still run the stock style plastic. I do have a Maier Custom "Raptor" Front Plastic with graphics that match the rear that will allow me to move the radiator forward far enough to mount the electric fan but I don't want to be committed to running that front end only. So now I have two choices, I can get Qualex (My Friend's Local Machine Shop) to help me build a shroud that mounts the electric fan between the gas tank and the back of the steering stem, or buy a small additional Universal Aluminum Radiator or Oil Cooler that will house the 7" X 7" Electric Fan and run it in conjunction with my other cooling mods. The Additional Radiator is the choice I'm leaning towards. I would like to mount it near the front bellow the existing Radiator behind the front DG Frame Guard, but I'm also looking at a spot on the rear of the quad behind my DG Side Frame Guard on the opposite side of the Rear Brake Reservoir. (This is just a thought I haven't done ant measuring). Have any of you guys done something like this or know some one who has? Any input would be great. Items I am Purchasing to Install Upgraded Cooling System : 250 Watt High Output Stator High Wattage Output Flywheel (more Magnets) Small 7" X 7" X 1.5 Aluminum Radiator and Mounting Hardware 12V Slim Line Electric Fan 6ft of Silicon Hose 12V Electric Fan Small Aluminum Radiator Possible Mounting Locations 1

Hey Guys I'm looking for a couple of Billet Pieces. I'm looking for a good used set of Billet Carburetor Intakes for a set of 28mm Keihin Carbs with the Boost Bottle like Paul Turner's or Pro Design. I'm also looking for a Billet Brake Reservoir Cap. That would just about finish me up other tha. a 200 watt Stator and a Upgraded Ignition preferably Dynatec. I'm also interested in trading my Polished like new Trinity Stage IV Cool Head for a Paul Turner Power Head. I pasted pictures of the items I'm looking for to the bottom of this thread. Any help would be much appreciated.

I'm looking for a set of Billet Pro design Intakes that has the boost Bottle, you wouldnt happen to have a set of them laying around would you?

What Kind of Pipes are you wanting? Would you consider a trade?

Jeff at Fast is great, I talked on the phone with him for over a hour yesterday afternoon discussing set ups. You were right the Polished 392cc Stock Stroke Serval is the set up he recommended for my Banshee and the type of riding I do. He said I would have hated the characteristics of the 358cc Cheetah Cub. The total cost on the Polished Small Displacement Stock Stroke Serval was about $1300. It would have been quit a bit cheaper but the Stock Stroke requires the Trinity exclusive Piston Kit that cost almost $300, and I have to buy a new set of Custom Domes from Trinity that cost $50.00. So the Polished Small Block and Gaskets ended up costing me around $950.00. I'm going to send Jeff money this week and get him started. Thanks so much for all your input.

Thanks so much, you have been just the guy I needed to talk to about these set up options. I was just about to try to cut a deal with Trinity on the 358cc/65mm Small Block Cheetah when I thought I'd better check my BHQ Post and see if you had replied to the questions I ask you about the different builds and upgrades the other day. So you think Fast will give me the best deal on a Serval Mono Block Cylinder and Forged Wiseco top end kit? Trinity offered me there Polished 358cc/65mm Small Block Cheetah with NO Port and Polish Work for $775 Shipped. I can get the Forged Aluminum Wiseco 65mm Top End Kit to go with it. I emailed them and ask if they could cut me a deal on the Wiseco Kit if I bought the Cylinders from them and they were a little on the rude side. They told me that they were cutting me a unheard of price on the Polished Cheetah Cylinder, if it was out of my budget I needed to look into doing some kind of work with my stock cylinders. They told me the cheapest P.V. set up they had that would work in conjunction with my Hot Rods Replacement Crank was $2,400 plus shipping. Can you get the Serval with a Polished exterior finish? What cc Serval Cylinder would you get, and what do you think that set up will cost? You hit the nail on the head when you were talking about my riding style. I built a pretty good suspension that suits me and my riding style. I hate to bring it up because I know some of the HQ members will start bashing me and my bike. I've brought it up on a few threads and It turned into "lets bash this guys set up" party. 95% of all the Sport Quads (68) I race my brother (1989 Honda TRX-250R) and I are the only two 2-Strokes in the Hare Scrambles we race in. Most are newer 350cc-700cc 4-Stroke quads with minor bolt on performance parts like Pipes, Air Filters, Jets, Tuners. A few have Hot Cams, Titanium Valves, and fuel system upgrades or Carburetors, and even fewer like maybe 10-15 have aftermarket a arms, shocks, swing arms, aftermarket wheels and other expensive suspension mods. In today's world of the 450R's and Big CC Trail Monsters like the Raptor 700 you don't need a $3,000+ Suspension in order to be competitive in the "B" and "C" Class KORHS Races. I decided that I'd mod a Yamaha YFZR Suspension and use it. So I bought a Full Flight +3+1 12pt Adjustable A Arm Kit/Tie Rods with Chromoly Heims, a set of 2006 YFZ-450SE Shocks that had been set up by GT Thunder for a Banshee, and 2010 YFZ-450R Suspension Parts (Stock Steering Stem, Steering Stem Flag, Spindles, Brake Calipers, Brake Lines, Hubs, and Master Cylinder) Everything went together great and the geometry is perfect, the specs on my travel and wheel base is almost exactly the same specs that the 2010 YFZ-405R has when it rolls off the Yamaha assembly line. I've rode a stock 2010 YFZR and my Banshee rides and handles almost dead on it. The best part about my suspension set up is it is a vast improvement over the stock 2004 Banshee Suspension and It cost me a fraction of the price. (Total Priced Shipped was about $725.00). I'm happy with my Suspension Set Up, and I feel like the right Mono Block Cylinder Set Up will Finish my Endurance Banshee Build. The YFZR Brakes are a vast improvement over stock, I feel like I have the skeleton to put this motor in and have a bad ass bike. Please let me know what you think.

I'm defiantly going up on the mains. When we installed the 28mm Keihin "D" Slides we started with a #50 Pilots and a 160 Mains and it would chock it out, so I went to the next size I had which were 150 Mains and it seemed to run fine. When I was running the Stock 26mm Mikuni Carbs I had a Vito's Stage III Jet Kit with in them with #30 Pilots and 340 Mains. I emailed Kevin Herr at Herr Jugs Racing and talked to him about my different options, He told me if I wanted to stick with the upgraded bolt on parts I had I needed to contact Trinity and see what they had to offer. Jeff at FAST said he had Serval Small Block Set Up for $1095.00 and it included Mono Block Cylinder, pistons, stud extenders, water plugs, gaskets, bearings and everything I need to put it back together. But I see that he has Small Displacement Cheetah Small Blocks on his Web Site that come complete with Wieseco's Forged Top End Kit (Pistons, Rings, Clips, Pins Bearings, Gaskets, Wrist Pins, and Water Plugs) for $875.00 but the High Polished Block is an extra $200.00 through him but thats not saying we wont work with me on the price. As far as Fuel/Domes in concerned I used to run 2oz per gallon Klotz Octane Booster with 93 Octane Pump Gas or mix 93 and 100 Octane Aviation fuel 75/25, and almost every HQ Member I talked to on that thread said that it wasn't necessary that all I was doing is making my engine run hotter by adding the booster and I wasnt gaining anything by mixing the BLUE Fuel. They said that as long as I could get pump gas that was 91 Octane or higher that I would be fine. They said that company's like Trinity tell there customers that anything bellow 20cc Domes require race fuel because the highest Octane Fuel sold in a lot of states is 91 Octane. So I quit running an Octane additive and mixing AVI Fuel and I didn't notice any difference. This next go around I'll be mixing the 100 Octane Blue with 93 Octane Pump Fuel just so I'm on the safe side. Thank all you guys for all you input you have been so helpful, I haven't made up my mind on what set up I'll be going with so please keep comments coming. This Thread is going great!!!

Trinity told me I could buy this Polished CHEETAH 358cc Mono Block Cylinder Set Up with Trinity's Aggressive Trail Port and Polish for $700 shipped to my door. I I'm leaning this way because all my bolt on parts like my Trinity Stage IV Cool Head, Reed Cages, and so on will bolt right on. I figured If I decided to go this rout I'd buy the Wiseco 65mm Top End Kit (2 PISTONS PINS RINGS C-CLIPS GASKETS TOP END BEARINGS) and drop in the Cheetah Cylinders. If I go this way the total cost $889.00 Shipped to my door. If I bought this Small Block could I add there Power Valve set up later on down the road? I want a P.V. Set up bad! I've herd that a Power Valve set up on a Banshee gives you lugging grunt low end that is comparable to most you Big CC Woods Bikes like the Raptor, but you still have a high revving Power Band. Its supposed to be the best of both of both worlds 4-stroke Low End, Reliability, with an Awesome 2-Stroke Pull through out the entire Power Band. But thats all hear say the only P.V. 2-Stroke motor I've ever had any dealings with is my 2001 GP-1200R WaveRunner that has Yamaha's "YPVS" and I really have no way of comparing it to a Banshee P.V. System. What do you guys think about the Trinity Power Valves? Brandon can you get me something thats equivalent or better thats Polished than the 358cc Cheetah Small Block for a better price? If I can get a Polished Serval Small Block or any other Mono Block that will save me money and give me the same end result I'm all for it.

Dose Serval make a Small Block Mono Block with Power Valves or would you stay away from them? Who would you go through if I decide to go with the Serval? Have you had any experience with a Twister Mono Block? It doesn't look like I'd be able to use my Trinity Cool Head. Twister Billet Small Block Part: SBC-1 Available from stock stroke to 14mm and everything in between, this cylinder kit is the SUV of the race world...tough, powerful, and truly a do-it-all cylinder! Available in a 69mm bore for the guys who want to just bolt-on and go, and also available with bore sizes up to 75mm for the ultimate in performance! All the porting is done by CNC for the most precise flow and direction of fuel, giving you the edge over the other guys. Another welcomed feature of this cylinder over the other guys is our cast iron sleeves...that's right, no nikasil to deal with and no headaches trying to get your motor back together at the races! The use of bolt-on reedboxes give you the option of retaining your stock reeds or upgrading to the bigger CR 125 reeds for even better performance! Two different exhaust flange sizes are available to either use your factory size pipes or bigger flange race pipes! The interchangability of this cylinder is a really neat deal because if you feel like upgrading sometime down the road, it's a lot easier to expand and adapt to your

Thank you so much for your help and input Gotta_Gofast you don't know how helpful you have been. I'm going to start scowering the internet for one now.

Yes, I live in central Kentucky. I stay in the woods most of the time on trails, I went a different route when I put my Banshee together. I wanted to build a good handling woods racer that had a ton of low end but would still kick ass and pick up a lot of ground in the straight stretches. I put it together this way because I'm pushing 30 and I planned on running the Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles and most of the guys that run those races are teens or early 20's and in a hell of a lot better shape than I am. When I told some of my buddy's that race them religiously that I was going to buy a Banshee and run it in the KORHS against 68 Sport Quads (all 68 are 4 Stroke) they laughed and said the Banshee was old out dated technology that belonged at Sand Drags not in a Hare Scramble. They said a Banshee could not be competitive in woods racing because they ride like shit, they are impossible to keep cool, and they were very unreliable. So I was out to prove them wrong, I built my motor for low end power the best way I new how based on my limited knowledge and internet research. I had the motor built with forged internals and every cooling mod I could find and added Paul Turner Pipes/Fat Boy Silencers, Chariot Billet Reed Cages/Boyesen Power Reeds, Chariot Billet Reed Spacers, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head /20cc Domes, Boot Bottle (I know there a Joke), and a High Flow Ready Air Filter/in stock Air Box with EHS Outerwears lid. I took my Banshee over to a buddy's farm for a trial run after I added a aftermarket/upgraded complete Suspension, New Tires/ITP Wheels, Skid Plates and Guards to try it out. The Power that set up made combined with suspension was great in the woods but the open fields was a different story, the power band was to short. I fixed that buy adding new 15/42 Sprockets and that made a huge difference. But there was still one spot (right after I shifted 4th) in my bike where it didn't pull as hard as I wanted so I added the 28mm Keihin D Slides and it took care of that. I never had any big problems until that trip to Wind Rock my Banshee was way out of its element there I just don't think a Banshee can be a great rock crawler. The 421 Serval your telling me about seems like its just what I need, Will it work well in conjunction with my other upgrades? And where should I start looking to get one at the best price.

I should have put a 4mil kit in it the first go around a year an a half ago, I don't know why I didn't I guess I was going on the old out dated idea that the bigger the engine set up the less reliablity.... I should have my ass kicked for buying a Hot Rods Forged Factory Replacment Crank Vs the Hot Rods 4mil Stroker Crank. Oh well... I hate to ge into the bottom end when its in good shape (less than 60hrs of riding time). When I had this motor set up put together I was talking to Gman-7m AKA Luna Racing I bought my Paul Turner Pipes and Fat Boy Silancers off him, he told me then that I needed to go 4mil. I pasted the deal he emailed me off an old email bellow in red. I should have let him put my set up together from what I've seen on You Tube his set ups are awesome. Instead of sending my motor to him I orderd a new Hot Rods Forged Replacment Crank and Rods, and a Wiseco Forged Aluminum Pro-Lite .020 Piston and top end kit off the internet took it to the local Yamaha Dealer "Lee's Yamaha". The whole rebuild including parts was around $1,050.00 and that was just rebuilding my top and bottom end, none of the other things that Gus was going to help me out with were included. Hi Jim,if you can ship me the engine complete, I can build you an awesome trail engine with lots of top end with all the following: New 4mil Hot rods crank and bearings, rebore and chamfer cylinders, new Wiseco forged light weight pistons at 64.5mm, trail port cylinders with auxiliary intake ports and exhaust port timing @ 190* for awesome mid and top end power, port the case to match the transfers to the cylinders, a good used and polished Cool head with domes for race gas or regular fuel, replace all seals and gaskets with new cometic brand, replace any worn bearings and gears on the trans including shift forks, modified shift star with an up graded clutch needle bearing pancake pusher, rebuild your carbs with new kits and install Vito's jetting kits, Install a lightened fly wheel for quicker acceleration, this will be a very reliable engine build with power. Labor, machine work, port and polish work, new parts as described above and shipping one way, $1450.00. Any labor that I perform is guarantied. please call me if interested@ Gus. Thanks, Luna racing..... 252Wheelieking you might be right maybe I am running the jetting to lean, before I ride it again I'm going to step up to 155 Mains. Does anyone know of a aftermarket company that makes a Small CC MonoBlock for the Banshee? I've read that MonoBlocks cool much better than the stock jugs. I would love to find a company that made a Polished Aluminum 350cc MonoBlock, if I had that then my intire motor would be Billet and Chrome. But I don't know if anything like that even exist, if it does will the aftermarket Cool Head's like my Trinity Stage IV, work with it? If I have my stock cylinders ported will it help or hurt my bottom end, I understand that porting helps out mid and top end but I can't see it helping out my low end. Close EDIT: Phone number deleted.

I don't know what caused it to get so hot then, I have every cooling mod made for a Bansheeon it (Trinity Cool Head/20cc Domes, 30% Bigger Aluminum Radiator, CV-4 Radiator Cap, In-Line Billet Coolers, Billet Water Pump, and I run ATV Engine Ice) As good as you guys are modding Banshee's I can't belaeve you of you havent come up with a electric fan/brackets/Aluminum shroud set up that sets behind the radiator and infront of the steering stem to help keep these thing cool. I just figured it was leaning out, because 99% of all the Banshee owners on HQ say they don't have problems. I'm running Keihin 28mm D Slide Carbs with 150 Mains and 52 Pilots, 160's are to much. I run Klotz/93 Octane 32:1. I told Wild Cards I would get with him when my cylinders needed work so thats probibly who I'll let work on them. I went ahead and bought a set of Wiseco Rings and there soaking in Z-MAX. I had my Banshee rebuilt right after I got it, they punched it .020, and I bought a Hot Rods Forged Crank, Wiseco Pro- Lite Pistons and top end. I don't see any other Wiseco Pistons avalable for the Banshee other than the Forged Pro Lites, I didnt know if they made Dome Pistons or any other variation. Whats your guys opionion on Trinitys Power Valve Cylinders for my type of riding (Trail/Hare Scrambles)? Thay say the P.V. set ups give two strokes four stoke charicteristics as far as low end. Any way I'll see what the guys at Wild Cards think, keep the opionions coming.

Okay guy's I went to Wind Rock OHV to ride with a couple of buddys on there four chokes (400EX, LTZ-400). My Banshee didnt like the altatude change, I had it set for 740ft above sea level and who knows how high we ended up. I adjusted and rejetted the carbs after a quick ride but I was to late. When I got home I broke it down, the rings were wore and the pistons have scoff marks on them near the bottom. It looks like someone took sand paper and scuffed the on the bottom. The wrist pin bearing on the right cylinder is stiff as well, so I figure I need a whole new Wiseco Piston Top End Kit. Do you guys have any sugestions on kits? Is there anything better than Wiseco Pro-Lite Forged Aluminum Pistons? I would love to put Power Valve Cylinders on it for low end grunt, but I can't sink $2,000 to $2,500 into the motor. I race Hare Scrambles from time to time and I trail ride. What would you do or what would you buy to go back in the cylinders? The Cylinders still look okay. My upgrades are listed in my sig...

I hope you have better luck than I did last week. My Banshee absolutely hated the elevation. My bike is set up for 700ft above sea level, as soon as I fired it up I could tell it didn't like the atmosphere. I pulled the plugs after a short ride and they looked a little dry and brown so I jetted it up some. It helped some but it got hot the higher up the mountain I went, and the trails were washed out bad. If your going to ride a banshee at wind rock here are the mods you need. Power Valve Set Up. Low Gearing 12/42 or 13/42 at most Heavy Duty Wheels with Bend rings. Good Tires Full Body Skids (a arms, belly swing arm) Soft Suspension. +3 a arms Bigger Radiator, In-Line Coolers, Billet Water Pump, Cool Head, and good coolant *Make sure your carbs are set for higher elevations I had everything but the lower gearing and Power Valves and it was still absolute Hell trying to go up trails like #12, #10, and #17.

I bought the same kit from Drive Line and put it in my Billet Barnett Clutch Basket and I had the exact same problem It is a awesome clutch and mine has held up great. I went through two Barnett Dirt Diggers running Hare Scrambles. I don't think a lot of the guys understand just how stiff that clutch set up is. I bought a MSR EZ Pull Lever lever to begin with and I loved the look and feel of it but it didn't seem to help the pull stiffness at all. I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought a new Hydraulic Streamline Clutch off eBay for $169.00 and it fixed the problem! I love it!!! It makes the clutch pull soft and smooth and it engages smoother than any ATV clutch I have ever felt. That being said it was hard to get the adjustment perfect and it was a bitch to get bled properly. Go ahead and put the Stream Line Mineral Oil up and use it for something else and buy a quart of Oil because it will take about a half a quart to do it right. A tech at Streamline told me I could use Synthetic Automatic ATF, or Synthetic Hydraulic Oil made by John Deere or Cub Cadet. I happened to be in Tractor Supply when I was on the phone with him looking for a Hydraulic Oil that wasn't $12.00 for a 4oz bottle when I talked to him so I went with the Cub Cadet Hydraulic Oil and it worked fine. The only other advice I would give you is go ahead and buy a Hand Held Bleeder from Auto-Zone, and go ahead and get Streamline to ship another additional .5" 6mm Hex nut with the kit. My Slave cylinder fucked up three times in a practice endurance race because the cylinder arm didn't get quite enough bite and it kept rattling loose. The travel had to be adjusted all the way out on both ends and I didnt like that. If you go ahead and fix that from the start it will save you a lot time and frustration. Go ahead and buy a Hydraulic Lever you will love it.

Your right man, Corvette all the way....... The V-12's didn't have any luck when Chevrolet brought the new 638hp LS-9 Corvette ZR-1 into the picture it out performed them in every performance category, and the only thing the Italian's could say was GM needed to plush up there interior and quit making everything out of plastic!

Unless you guys are racing 450's a lot more powerful than I am you shouldn't need to much more than bolt ons in order to beat one in a straight line drag race. I've raced both YFZ-450's and TRX-450R's that have built motors and I beat them and I have the stock cylinders punched .020 with no port work and just about every performance bolt on you can think of. The YFZ-450's I have raced just had exhaust, air filters and a few other small things but I had a buddy that bought a TRX-450R with a full HRC Kit (Shaved Head, Cam, .040 bore, Pistons, Air Filter, Fuel pump, Carb Work, Exhaust) and I beat him racing 300ft, 1/8 mile, 1/4mile. When we first started playing around I had 13/42 gearing and he would smoke my ass. I ended up going with a 15 tooth front sprocket and it made a huge difference. He had to fight to keep the front end down and I didn't. We could go from a dead stop on pavement and I could launch my Banshee around about half throttle and it would spin just a tad and pull the front wheels about about a foot off the ground in 1st and I was gone. That being said when I shifted from 3rd to 4th he would start catching me fast real fast, when his front tires go even with my foot pegs my Banshee would start pulling again. If we raced 10 times I would beat him 7 out of 10 racing a 1/8 mile, and in 300ft he couldn't touch me. I ended up putting a set of Keihin PWK 28mm Carburetors on my Banshee to eliminate that weak spot in my power band where where he would draw in so hard between 3rd and 4rth gears and he sold his TRX-450 to buy a Harley before I got the chance to race him again. That being said I haven't had the chance to race the EFI 450's.

I'm laughing too.

Fuck You you piece of shit! Why don't you mind your own business? Did any one ask for you opinion or input? NO!!! Once again your on here trying to get shit started! Why don't you bring your Banshee to Kentucky............ ? Do you even own one? If you do I'm sure its a duner and it wouldn't hold a candle to my bike in the woods! Why don't you go back to the suspension threads and try to rip off some unexpected quad owner on a suspension set up?!? If you were not such a dumb ass dick smoker you might get more business, but I personally wouldn't let you work on anything I own and I would recommend any body needing suspension work to get in contact with the guys at GT Thunder. They did a great job rebuilding/revalving and setting up my shocks for me and my Banshee. You are the only Site Sponsor that acts like a 15 year old drama queen, you don't see the other guys that sponsor the site like the guy at Wild Card Racing on here instigating shit between two HQ Members. They act like professionals and you act like a ass wipe. When I said "I could hit rocks as big as bowling balls" I was using that as a expression to express how soft I had my suspension is set in the front. Its not like I said I hit rocks as big as cars. A stock Banshee can hit rocks that big at high speeds with out throwing the rider off. Do I need to get a bowling ball and dig a hole where half of it is submerged in the ground and half of it is protruding above ground and hit it in a wide open field to prove this to you? The funny thing is I remember you running your dick sucker on the tread where I made that comment and I was reading a article on the internet the other day about Wayne Matlock's 700XX that won the 2010 Baja 500 and the author of that article used the same analogy on the rocks "bowling balls" and the suspension, so what do you find so comical about that statement ? A bowling ball is 8.5 inches in diameter, so that means 4.25 inches would be above the grounds surface (I know you probably know nothing about physics, so I'll explain why only half of it would be protruding above ground and the other half would have to be submerged....... Okay here it is dumb ass. ANSWER: because it would roll! How many rocks have you seen that are perfectly round the size of a bowling ball laying in a field?)... Are you going to tell be that the suspension set ups you put together are so shitty that they can't overcome a obstacle thats round and 4.5 inches tall at a medium to high rate of speed? I suggest you go back to the suspension forum and peddle your over priced suspension work to someone who is interested in having you work on there quad, try to put back a percentage of your earnings and who knows you might be able to save enough money to build your very own XC Banshee. Then you can talk shit and if you want to race you can come down here and I'll hand you your ass. Until then keep your mouth shut and quit sticking your big ass SO FOUL Suspension nose into everyone else's business!

I'm used to it, Lawrenceburg is nothing but rocks and cedar trees. I run ITP Baja T-9's with the bend rings on the rear and Douglas Yellow Labels on the front. As far as tire I'm currently running my like new 20X11-9/21 X 7-10 AT-111 Six Ply "RAZR knock offs". I've has good luck out of so far out of both the wheels and tires. I run 2 Scrambles on them and I've got a bunch of ride time on them and so far so good. They seem to be holding up better than my 6 Ply ITP Hole Shots.

I looked at it on the Web Site, it looks like a great place to ride. Do you and some of the other HQ Members ride there very much? I talked to my Brother about Big Rock yesterday he said thats in the area where he bought his TRX-250R. A guy named Peter owned it and thats where they rode just about every weekend. We figured we could be there in about a hour and a half.

I live in Lawrenceburg Kentucky about 15 minutes from Frankfort. Where is Big Rock? Me and some buddies are supposed to be going to Tennessee around the end of July. How far away is Big Rock from Lexington Louisville? I'm always ready to ride.