Thack82

No one has a Idea on a Starting Point for these Carbs?

Thanks man I'll give that a try. I have a Mcmaster Carr Catalog here at work can anybody order shit out of that catalog? Last time I had to order stuff they needed a P.O. Number and a bunch of stuff, it might be a different process though if I tell them there dealing with a residential customer. I measured one of the New 32mm Mikuni T.M. Carburetor's with a set of Digital Vernier Calipers just before I packed them up to send to Mr. Bling to be Polished because they looked so much bigger than the Keihin 28mm PWK "D" Slide Carburetors I had. I scribbled the rough numbers I got on my garage wall for some reason and I went back and looked to see what I wrote down last night and I had wrote OD/ B-63mm, F-38mm. So even though that sounds big that's what I'm going with. I'm going to take a chance for $8.40, I hate to have everything in and put together and not be able to tune it or ride because of a $10 set of clamps. So I hope they fit, if I measured them correctly and these clamps match the Item description they should work. I'll probably go ahead and try to order a set out of Mcmaster Carr too so I will have extras and I can pick out the ones I like best. Band Clamp for Back (Big) Side Band Clamp for Air Filters, Airbox to Carb Joints, Custom Manifoldsto Filter Joints and all purpose uses except carb holders. Fits: 67-73mm. (2.64"-2.87")Diameters $2.10 USD Ea. Band Clamp for Front (Small) Side Band Clamp for Air Filters, Airbox to Carb Joints, Custom Manifoldsto Filter Joints and all purpose uses except carb holders. Fits: 37-43mm. (1.45"-1.69") Diameters $2.10 USD Ea.

I've already bought 30mm-32mm Pro-Design Rubber Carburetor Boot's for my Pro-Design Billet Intakes UPP Racing's 32mm-33mm Air Box/Intake Boots But I cant find a set of OEM Style Clamps for the 32mm Mikuni TM Carburetors. I'm sure the Carburetor Clamps for the 34mm Keihin PJ Carburetors will work with my Mikuni's too if I could find them, if any body could tell me where to buy a set (all four 2-Fronts & 2-Rears for both Carburetors) It would help me out tremendously. Ive been searching for the past two days. Ive emailed Mike SXS at http://www.mikesxs.net/products-40.html yesterday and ask him to send me the information on the Carburetor Clamps I needed but he hasn't got back with me. I feel pretty confident that he has the Clamps I need because he has a bunch of them in different sizes. I just want to make sure I get the right Clamps, I don't want to take a chance on leaking and tare something up. I pasted the Pictures and descriptions of the Clamps he has on his Web Site Bellow that I think I need but I'm not sure. Please help me out if you can. Thank You, Jim Thacker Band Clamp Carb Holder band Clamp - 49-55 mm. range. Fits carb holders for stock Mikuni BS 34 CV carbs as used on North American 1980-84 XS650's OEM Reference # • 90460-53106 • 3G1-13586-00-00 • 3G1-13596-00-00 - $4.50 USD Ea Band Clamp Band Clamp for Air Filters, Airbox to Carb Joints, Custom Manifolds to Filter Joints and all purpose uses except carb holders. Fits: 49-67mm. (1.93"-2.64") Diameters Part #15-0692 - $2.10 USD Ea.

I need some help, I just bought a Brand New Set of 32mm Mikuni T.M. Series Smoothbore Flat-Slide Carburetors for my Banshee that has a F.A.S.T. Play Ported SS/68mm Serval with Rocket R2 Pipes that runs on 93 Octane Pump Gas. I'm also running a Trinity Cool Head w/ 21cc Domes, EHS/Outerwears Lid Insert (Equivalent to NO Air Box Lid), K&N Air Filter with Outerwears Cover, Pro-Design Billet Intakes, Chariot Billet Reed Cages w/ Reed Gage Spacers/Boyesen Power Reeds, and a bunch of other bolt on Performance mods. I'm at 740'-780' above Sea Level.... Do you guys have any suggestions on a Jetting Starting Point? With my old Keihin PWK 28mm "D" Slides my Winter Jetting was #52 Pilots and 165 Mains. I know the Jet Number's and everything else is completely different between the Keihin PWK's 28's "D" Slides and the 32mm Mikuni T.M. Flat-Slides but I thought it might help you if you knew what I had been running. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I've already bought 30mm-32mm Pro-Design Rubber Carburetor Boot's for my Pro-Design Billet Intakes and UPP Racing's 32mm-33mm Air Box/Intake Boots, but I cant find a set of OEM Style Clamps for the 32mm Mikuni TM Carburetors. I'm sure the Carburetor Clamps for the 34mm Keihin PJ Carburetors will work with my Mikuni's too if I could find them, if any body could tell me where to buy a set (all four 2-Fronts & 2-Rears) Carb Clamps for my 32mm Carbs it would help me out tremendously. Ive been searching for the past two days. Thank You, Jim Thacker

I will take a few pictures of the front end of my Banshee without the Front Plastic so the air channel scoop Air Scoop can be seen. I really don't post anything on BHQ anymore because I'm ridiculed over every upgrade I do. I get roasted by some of the other members and no one will come to my aid, so I just quit posting. I've spent a lot of money and the set up I have works good for me so I'm just going to leave it at that from now on. I will post a few pictures of my new upgraded updated improvements after I get them all on. I with I had the money this year to get Metal Tech Fabrication to build This Forged and Extruded Aluminum Frame that uses the Banshee Power Plant, Rear Swingarm/Suspension, Gas Tank, and Plastic and used 2009-2011 YFZ-450X Front Suspension and housed a 7" Thin-Line Radiator Cooling Fan but I couldn't justify the cost this year.

https://gq1.attach.mail.ymail.com/us.f1640.mail.yahoo.com/ya/securedownload?fid=Inbox&mid=2_0_0_1_6999803_APLWiGIAAXiMULG1qgsgimURIGs&pid=2&check_content_type=2&tnef=&fullscan=1&YY=1466278621&appid=YahooMailMobile&cred=y2ONlTf.AtCEJsGdVjzbvAAZ5nXnLDlvlVcMSnUbXF2zdWtH9XNDMd8hze4PLHBq.2hJvKxQ_VPlGtal3.j2qKt5kfwiluNLv_BLZbk3v_EfEJRFMjF4V631HzsdfR6P9Uvl0ujBdyWjO3sfkVufaYSd69X8L2PvH1mDyYiOhN16HdfulA--&ts=1353823688&partner=ymail&sig=RNBfc3InJgiP8BE3Q4wkIw--

Look into EHS Racing Lid Inserts, you get the best of both worlds and I love mine it works great.

My Woods Banshee destroyed a Mattoon 8 Plate Heavy Duty Clutch Basket in 18hrs of ride time. I had a one off replica made out of Forged 41/40 Tool Steel by a Local Machine Shop to insure NO Notching would take place. I think the one I bought must have been a lemon because I've only heard good things about Mattoon.

I've bought quite a few parts from him off eBay and I've always had good luck dealing with him.

Give it a break, everybody already knows what you and Matt think about my Banshee. If you don't have something to say that relates to this Thread "that's about a exhaust system" just keep your mouth shut and do us all a favor.

I'm looking for a set of Rocket R2 Pipes and Silencers for my Banshee ( Preferably Chrome Plated) but I will also take Black. If you have a set send me a BHQ Message. Thanks, Thack82

Can you guy's tell me who sells the R2 Pipes. I'm switching up my pipes and I want a set of R2's, I contacted minkia38 on eBay but I haven't go a response. I think the R2's will be a awesome set up on my Serval, plus I think they look awesome.

Yes

Z-Max is used in car engines, as far as I know I'm the only one that's ever used Z-Max on or in a ATV for anything. Oh and by the way its "Hyper Lubricant" not "Mico Lubricant".

I took my Banshee out on it's Maiden Voyage yesterday to test it out after I put in my new custom made 41/40 Forged Steel 8 Plate Clutch Basket, Clutch Basket Needle Bearing/Forged Kicker Gear (Replaces OEM Kicker Gear and Clutch Basket Bronze Bushing), Mull Racing Shift Detent Bearing Mod, Mull Racing Billet Shift Star, and a Right Side Crankcase Cover Billet Vent Block Off Plate. Everything went great, the Transmission felt tight and precise and it shifted with ease. I noticed I had some form of fluid leaking about a hour into the ride, I checked it out and it was milky looking oil that was blowing out of my Rear Crankcase Vent Tube/Hose. Me and my buddy had noticed that a O-Ring in the Right Side Case was looking pretty rough and I had actually put Orange RTV Silicon on it the last time I had the Right Side Crank Case Cover Off. During the ride coolant was leaking slowly into my Clutch Crankcase oil. I know its the O-Ring that's in that part of the case that's leaking into my oil and overfilling my clutch oil and blowing it out of the rear vent hose. Do any of you guy's know what size O-Ring that is? I Know its most likely metric, is this going to be a Dealer only part? I was hoping I could just pick up a generic Metric O-Ring and replace it. If you guys could help me out with this I would appreciate it.

I can see how some of that could be confusing. The Post your looking at are older post that I posted in order to get input on idea's. I'll explain in the order you have them listed. When I built my motor I made the mistake of going back with Trinity's Stock Stroke Crank. Like everybody else I wanted to get all the power possible out of my Motor. After doing some research I found out that a bigger Stroked motor makes more torque and I thought more torque would be better for the type of riding I do. I also drag race my Banshee against my buddies in the river bottoms and I run the dirt drags at the near by County Fairs and I wanted to be fast there as well. I didn't want to make the same mistake I made previously, so I wanted to go back with the biggest stroker crank possible that I could run with my current Serval Top End. I'm still running the Stock Stroke Crank as of right now, but I do plan going with a 4mil Crank the next time I get into the bottom end. I'm having a machine shop build me a Adjustable Rear Link "Strut" that bolts to my stock rear Linkage that will adjust the angle and leverage ratio on the rear shock. Dura-Blue and a few other company's make these but there longer and used to lower the back end of the quad for drag racing, I'm getting a shorter version made, this will allow me to pull the linkage into a slightly different position and raise the belly of the quad up a little and put the swingarm at a steeper anger therefor shorting it. Yes I do spend most of the time in the Woods. I'm sure some of the other guys on here from Kentucky will tell you that the trails that we ride in are pretty rough. Most of them are washed out, littered with Cedar Tree's, Limestone Rock and Sycamore tree Roots. Before I found out about the guys at Metal Tech I was looking into a +3 Ace Fabrication Swingarm because I liked the Round House Carrier Set Up and Chain Adjustment on it. When I decided to have Metal Tech build my A-Arms I went ahead and had him build me a matching +3 Heavy Duty Oval Tube Swingarm with a Round House Dual Row Bearing Billet Carrier. I have found out in my experiences riding that a Wider Longer Quad is more stable and rides better than a narrower shorter quad. This helps with rider fatigue, 95% of the time fatigue is what causes issues with me racing in the woods. After I get tired I have trouble riding my Banshee at its full potential. I guess that's normal for somebody that's a few months away from 30 thats racing with guys that are 18 to 20 years old. I would like to buy a set of Hiper carbon fiber wheels that have the 4/1offset in the front like the ones your talking about. I bought the Douglass Yellow Label wheels that are on my Banshee before I got aftermarket A-Arms and I wanted that dish to widen out the front a little bit for a little added stability. You are right the 3/2 Front Offset the deep dish rear ITP T- 9's I'm running is not the best choice for the suspension set up I'm running now. But I do plan on changing that in the future. I posted the Hiper wheels and the 4mil crank along with a few other items on a previous post on this thread as things I plan on changing. As far as the Cooling Mods go I'm running a Mull Racing Billet Water Pump Gear & Impeller, Trinity Stage IV Cool Head, Oversized Aluminum Radiator, CV-4 High Pressure Radiator Cap, ASV Silicon Hoses, Mod Quad Inline Billet Coolers, Radiator Air Channel Scoop, and the CP Seravl Mono Block Cylinder Set Up that has more coolant Holding Capacity. I also run ATV Blue Engine Ice with Royal Purple's Purple Ice Coolant Additive. Although I haven't had any boil overs since I went with the Seval Top End I'm still a little paranoid when it come to the banshee's infamous overheating issues. I had all these cooling mods and I still fried my previous top end and cylinders twice do to my engine over heating in the woods.

I didn't say any thing about my frame dumb ass. I said The Sock Angle and over all shape and geometry match the YFZX A-Arms pretty much dead on except there shorter to compensate for the wider Banshee frame. I didn't say exactly the same and the Shock angle is exactly the same as the shock angle on the X. Your running your mouth about shit you don't know about. This is just one more example of you and MattSCSS changing the things I say around and blowing shit out of proportion. Go back and read what somebody says before you say they said it and say there lying about shit. I know your a little slow but damn I thought you could read!

When did I say my Suspension Set Up was better than any other Suspension Set Up made for the Banshee? You all keep saying that, I said the 2009 and up YFZ Suspension Components were a big improvement over the 04-08 Suspension Components, and just because I said my set up performs good in the terrain I ride in you guys jump on the band wagon with MattSCSS and dog the shit out of my Banshee and pic apart everything I say and blow it way out of proportion. The purpose of a forum is to obtain and submit information to help out other people and that's all I'm doing. I'm telling other Banshee riders that a good performing without using aftermarket shocks. I'm not saying its better or it worse eather way. What I did say is the Suspension I'm running is leaps and bounds better over a Stock Banshee Suspension. You guys go along with everything MattSCSS says and he's never even run a Banshee with any type of YFZ-450 shock on it so how does he know? He hasn't come forward with any information on the dozens of guys that he says are running the 2009 and up YFZ Shocks aether. He beats me down on my set up but he told another HQ Member on another BHQ Thread this: MattSCSS I agree with this 100%. I personally have never run YFZ shocks on a stock banshee. I am just relaying feedback I have gotten from the customers that I have done re-spring and re-valves for. Granted, almost all of them run the ENTIRE YFZ front end, not just the shocks on stock a-arms. I've never had someone come to me and say their YFZ450 shocks were too stiff. To me, a stiff stock front end with YFZ shocks, would indicate a binding issue. Either lower eyelets binding on the lower a-arm, or a-arm pivot bolts being too tight. Banshees are front heavy. In stock trim, they weigh in at roughly 380lbs. A YFZ450 in stock trim, weighs 340lbs. It's safe to say, that the majority of the extra weight on a banshee is towards the front end of the bike. This is one of the several reasons that triple or quad rate springs are not advisable with aftermarket shocks. Aside from shock angle, the rest of the suspension geometry is pretty much the same on the banshee and YFZ when all YFZ parts are swapped onto the banshee. Essentially, you have stock YFZ suspension, with an extra 40lbs strapped to the front of it; hence the reason that the majority of complaints regarding the shocks are geared toward the softer side. For the record, I am not totally against running a shock designed for another vehicle. On my own personal bike, I ran Fox snowmobile shocks that I set up for myself... MattSCSS Thanks for that lesson on junk shocks that don't belong near ANY ATV, let alone cobbled onto the front end of a banshee. So I wouldn't put a lot of stock in anything he says. My YFZ-450X Shocks don't belong near ANY ATV, let alone cobbled onto the front end of a banshee but a set of Snowmobile Shocks do? He contradicts everything he says and this is just a few of many examples I've ran across in his post. Like I've said before My old YFZ-450SE/FullFlight Suspension Set Up worked good and my new 2010 YFZ-450X/Metal Tech Set Up works ten times better than it did. I just don't see how you guys can dog my Banshee when you haven't rode a set up that's even similar to the one I'm running now.

Oh, I'm sorry I didn't realize you were a custom suspension fabricator. http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/b312fd35.jpg.html

http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/d1110942.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=4 http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/9b231a5c.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=5 http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/a1f297b9.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=6 http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/7d89dc42.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=2 http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/e6ea3c15.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://s1262.beta.photobucket.com/user/thack1982/media/YFZ-450X%20Metal%20Tech%20Hybrid%20Suspension/cc68de5b.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

shakar, you ask me for a few pictures for the YFZ-450X/Metal Tech Hybrid Suspension Set Up that I'm running on mu Banshee so I thought I'd go ahead a post some even though it's not completely finished. I'm waiting on Qualex to finish up my Custom Front A-Arm Skid Plates/DG Style Mounting Brackets and my T-304 Stainless Adjustable Link Strut that mounts to my OE rear shock link that will Raise/Lower my Rear End and Shorten and Lengthen my Rear Swingarm by adjusting my Rear Shock Leverage Ratios. I've also got a Frame Mounted Mod-Quad Billet Rear Shock Reservoir Clamp, Pro Taper FAT Handlebars/Grips and a ASR Break Away Brake Lever on the way that I wanted to get installed along with my new Stainless Steel Braided Front/Rear Brake Lines that I've got on the shelf. You can believe what you want to but this suspension set up works really well. I have the rear shock Spring adjustment let all the way out to lengthen the quad out as much as possible because I've been running it in KOI's 450cc and Under 2/4-Stroke Sport Quad Trail Class (200ft Dirt Drags). I need to compress the Rear Coil 12mm for my weight. When it's adjusted properly the Suspension really soaks up rough trail terrain. Tyler and the guy's at Metal Tech did a good job on the Suspension. The Sock Angle and over all shape and geometry match the YFZX A-Arms pretty much dead on except there shorter to compensate for the wider Banshee frame. I do wish I had got Tyler to make the front end 46" wide (Width of the YFZ-450X) VS the 48" width I told him to go with. I wanted to go with a 48" front width to match my 48" Rear Width that I'm running a +2 Over-Size Forward Powersport's Forged Rear Axle and ITP Deep Dish Rear Wheels. Kevin "Jogaca" from the Blue-Traxx Forum did a great Job on the Shocks. I've just got a couple more Big Items to buy and I hope I'm done with this quad. I'd Like to eventually like to put Race Tech's Triple Rate Spring Kit and Gold Valves in the front X-Shocks, a Race Tech Dual Rate Spring Kit and Gold Valve in the 2001 Raptor 660R Rear Shock, Buy a set of Stock 102mm Spread Mattoon Billet Cases, Trinity's Billet Balanced 4mil Stroker Crank/Exclusive Forged/Balanced/Lightened Aluminum Pro-Lite Piston Kit for a 4mil Stroke, HiPer Tech Carbon Fiber Wheels with ITP Radial Tire's, and a Stealth Series Trail Tech Vapor/Billet Handle Bar Mount. If I can just obtain those Upgrades I feel like I'll finally be finished.

You can keep on reporting this image and I'll keep on posting it! You haven't seen or rode my Banshee, I haven't got any pictures of it with this new set up. I changed my A-Arm set up from full flight to Metal Tech because I wanted a 46" Wide set up that would help me carry more speed in tight area's and the set up I had rode great but I wanted the newer updated Components. I plan on building another Woods Banshee sometime within the next few years and I'm going to have the guys at Metal Tech build me this Frame out of forged and extruded aluminum, buy a new set of Maier Plastics and I'll probably run all the stock YFZ-450X front suspension on it and run a Oval Tube Metal Tech Rear Swing Arm on the rear with a 2001 Raptor 660R Rear Shock with the Remote Reservoir. I'll have my Sponsored Builder "Withrow Powersport's put Race Techs Gold Valves in all three Shocks and Race Tech's Triple Rate Springs in the front and a Dual Spring Set Up in the Rear. I'll put together a Motor from the ground up with Billet Cases, +10mm Stroke, and a Serval Top End with Trinity Forged and Balanced Internals, Drive-Line Clutch Components. This new frame will have enough clearance to run a 7" Electric Fan between the steering stem and the back of the radiator too. The Suspension set ups I'm running perform good in the terrain I'm racing in and I don't think you can put one together that will out perform it where I'm riding and racing. That's my own Opinion but you wont see me dogging and running my mouth about any other guys suspension set ups because they have there Banshee's set up the way they like them and the terrain there riding in. I'm willing to call it a it a truce and stop all this bull shit if you will get off my back.