Jereme6655

you dont HAVE to port for a 4mil.....however the port timing will be effected so you should get it ported to correct that issue. The domes all need to be changed when going from a stock to a 4mil.....otherwise your piston is gonna come up and try to remove your head the way you dont want it to. also the long rod crank that you have requires different pistons than a stock rod crank.

ive heard some people say WSM make decent pistons, and ive heard others have had horror stories from the WSM pistons. Not too many people seem to complain when it comes to Wiseco Pro-Lite pistons...

the air screw should be around 1.5-2 turn out from lightly bottoming it out. so turn those puppies in until they GENTLY bottom out (they damage easily) and back them out a few turns. only way ive ever been able to get the air screws set right was throwing a screwdriver under the seat and test and adjust.....test and adjust...haha

it may be something like your pilot could be clogged or it could be that your way too lean on jetting .......i just rebuilt both my carbs and had the same problem as soon as i fired the bike up....blip the throttle a little they'd both fire....let it try to idle it would run on one and then die..... it was because one of my carbs had the idle set too low...happened during cleaning.

did you happen to knock the choke tube loose from between the carbs while you were switching slides back? are you sure the slides were in backwards?..... the half moon cut away is supposed to aim towards the back of the bike...

also look and see if the TORS system is disconnected. there should be a small black box on the left side under the fuel tank.......disconnect that and try it again.

i think you take the cake for carniage of the day.... looks pretty nice haha. i bet its the broke piston skirt from one of those lovely pistons....

/\/\/\ x2

most guys here read through all the posts......id call a site sponsor like jeff at FAST or Kevin at HJR and ask their opinions. or since this is a busy time of the year for them you could shoot them a pm on here and give it a few days and they will return your message.

if i remember correctlyeiterh zillafreak or ride.race..live used to have one of those at one time. ask if they ever found anyone that could deal the o-rings. i actually believe he sold it because of that.

make sure you read the can of carbstuff that you are going to soak the carbs in (the big name brand is berrymans) as you need to remove ALL plastic parts from the carbs and all gaskets.......the shit is gnalry and will eat all that stuff if you dont remove it first.

i had to pick up my buddies pod when it fell off after some hard hitting trail riding. had to make a small bracket to hold the weight off the end......the leverage was just too much on the end of the filters to allow the cheap hose clamps to get a good bite. trail side fix and bracket made upon returning home......no more problems....

Close to the same.....port job on it and it will walk all over your 450

I've used both the propane torch trick and I've used the heat gun. Their about equal to tell you the truth. I always take the extra time.....and you have to be patient and do it.....especially if you want to do it from the backside like me. Reason I do it from the backside is that way if you make a mistake it doesn't show......like overheating the plastic. Is actually really easy to do.....take the plastics off and look at the white marks on the top.....then take the torch and slowly move the flame (lower flame and not holding the flame directly to the plastic) over the plastic.....your goal is to thourghly bring the plastic up to temperature. You'll notice the plastic gets a little almost glaze over it on the underside.....then if you watch the top side youll see the color start to come back. For some really white stressed areas youll have to do it more than once......if you try and do it all in one run you'll overheat the plastic and either put a hideous burn in it or you'll get it too hot and it will sag from its own weight.

Replace. I know Jeff carries good used ones for cheaper prices....l.but as far as I know I've never heard of anyone being able to fix the choke knob

Umm....paddles on the dyno???

One of the carb bowls should have a Brass Ball on it....small one....it's on a side of the bowl. That is the left carb bowl. And yes the screw that comes along with the TORS unit IS just a idle screw.

the gap is supposed to be .018-.020 for the pickup to flywheel......but a business card like suggested works fine. Also you said you had it running and it would idle fine but fall flat out when you throttled up correct? and earleir you mentioned that you put a set of aftermarket pipes on it and yet still had stock jetting..... AFTERMARKET PIPES NEED BIGGER MAINs!.......my bike i got at a police auction.....guy had FMFs on it and stock jetting.....it would rev fine....but put it in gear and try and let out the clutch and you had to pump the shit out of the throttle to keep it running......and forget trying to ride it..... i took the stock jets and replaced them with 270's and 27.5 pilots and almost killed myself when i hit the throttle in gear.......front tires aiming toward God and me riding this things back like i was gonna die.........we'll just say it changed the charecteristics of riding it....

Cline is right.....the choke IS supposed to stay out until you physically push it back in....if it doesn't you can purchase some new parts to fix it. and the only thing that your "choke tube" does is allow a vacuum between the cars so that it can use vacuum pressure to engage a choke for the right side carb.

just use ziplock bags and a sharpie to mark bolts/hardware while your disassembling. Also use a atv specific flywheel puller that screws into the flywheel.....jaw type pullers will bend your flywheel. And to get the clutch hub off i use the motion pro clutch tool that also has the nubs on the backside (cost me about $23). The tool works for both removing the flywheel nut and the clutch nut. things that may save you time..... -Use either a strap wrench or the motion pro tool to hold the flywheel and clutch to get the nuts loose.... -There is a half moon bearing retainnig BEHIND all the clutch crap that holds the two case halves together also.......so don'ttry and split the cases without taking the clutch all the way off. -make sure to lube everything when your reassembling the guts.....i use 2 stroke oil on the crank and my trans fluid on everything that is for the trans... -if your putting in a new clutch.....soak your clutch fibers in your trans fluid they will expand slightly).....then adjust them afterwards.

completely stock motor or some mods?

when you get into the cases you'll laugh at how little the amount of stuff that is in there. 2 trans shafts and a crank are the large items. Alot of people get into trouble with the trans because they either dont lube it when they put it together (which makes it bind until fluid gets in there) or forget that these trans suck when it comes to shifting......you MUST be spinning the trans to get it to shift. i remember the first time i ripped cases apart......i just took my time and everything went fine. just make sure to clean the parts throughly and lube everything when your reassembling. LUBE LUBE LUBE....and you'll do fine.

do you already have new jugs? i ask because you can get piston kits through our sponsors (wiseco pro-lites) for around $180 for the kit and that incudes the same stuff. if you look in our for sale section here you can score a set of jugs for around $200....if not cheaper. So why spend $500 to get something your unsure of from fleabay?

Do NOT try and make your own tool to hold it....I've seen the inner clutch hub broken because of people trying to use the fingers in them to bolt a home made tool too.

i dont see in your lists of tests that you ran a leakdown test.......it sounds like it coudl be running lean from an air leak. do a leak down and be certain. also check your reeds......backfires through the carbs can shatter/crack that good.....