Jereme6655

I've seen this twice before on my bike. First time was when I first bought it.....the previous owner had aftermarket pipes and airfilters and stock sized pilot jets in it. So it was not able to suck down enough fuel to feed both carbs at idle.....but once I got on the gas hard enou for the main jet to open all the way it would feed both cylinders fine. Second time was when I rebuilt my cabs from a leak situation. Put em back on the bike and did a sync job BY SIGHT. Fired the bike up and it would only run on one cylinder......instant I blipped the throttle the dead cylinder would hop right back to life. Grabbed my sync tool from Jeff at FAST and damnit even though they both LOOKED to be matching one was off enough to not draw any flow at idle..... Turned that idle up and instantly solved the dead cylinder.

There is a little black box under your gas tank on the left side of the bike.....unplug it. I is your TORS brain box and once disconnected it will disable the throttle over-ride. I have a feeling that what you are experiencing is the ignition style rev limiting that the bike will do when the TORS or the parking brake is acting up. I BELIEVE all you need to do to disable the parking brake switch is to cut the wires from the handle bars that go to the parking brake. Either way just disconnect the TORS black box and i get it straightens itself out right away.

Just do a leak down test.....I bet you.l find an air leak.

What are your mods to your bike?

Still have the parking break or the TORS units on your bike?

How about tryingn to put the dead bikes stuff on the known running quad.....wonder if it will give you an idea somewhere

Won't work unless your tach somehow works off of AC current. The staters put out AC current....however you can get yourself a small motorcycle battery and then float the ground wire on the stator and add a regulator and it will work as a DC system

You can also drop the front bumper and the red foot pads that you have on the bike.....just keep the pegs themselves

/\ /\ x2 and don't forget....it's cheaper and easier for you to lose the weight than your bike. No offense here....it's just a lot easier.

Yikes......that's pretty impressive. I think your onto something there.....especially as seeing how one of your pistons seems to be coolant washed as if it was hot when the coolant went in and cleaned the piston crown. However also looking at your dones in your head it appears that you had some serious detonation going on there. What fuel were you running and what elevation are you at?

Could be your basket that's hurtin ya......or it could be that you have too thick of a oil in your tranny and it is taking a few rotations of the clutch to sling it all over the clutch fibers and get them to release from each other correctly

If your going to do a compression test......at least do a correct compression test. It only takes seconds more to screw in the gauge. And even if the rings are completely gone.....just the piston going up and down from being kicked over ll create enough compression to fake a finger into believing it has compression.

Even if someone had an OEM cylinder laying around that was still on the stock bore.....you wold still Ned to have the cylinder bored out for the next size piston......unless for some reason they never used their OEM cylinders....

id agree with Savage.....it looks like its been through hell considering the bike is still fairly new. If you have another banshee you can try and swap out the CDI real quick to ensure that the CDI is the problem. and definitely find a CDI somewhere else other than the dealerships......they'll ass rape you everytime for things....

holy hell......like 7 posts ago we told you that the washer IS important. YOU NEED IT THERE IN ORDER TO TUNE YOUR BIKE RIGHT. The main jet is a tapered measuring device (it limits/measures) the amount of fluid (gas) that goes through the carb via the main jet taper and the tapered needle. WITHOUT the washer the main jet is not in the propper space.....meaning the needle will plunge FARTHER into the main jet cutting off hte fuel faster. AND if you have gas in your carb you have your carb floats set way off.....as its allowing the fuel to continue to flow into the cylinders and then down into the exhaust....

and check jetting.

If you check out the FAST website or call Jeff he can tell you that he has a few different setups that come as complete kits. Some come with crank and some don't....but it's not hard for him to turn around and pick up a crank on his shelf for it haha. Also there are different things to think about like fuels.....you said you wanted to stay on pump.....which is gonna limit you as of the power/build. The serval cylinders supposedly have incredible low end along with hard running top end power and have been able to make 80hp while still on pump fuels.

They usually only fail if anything....

Don't forget to check your jetting as I'm sure it will be different....

I have heard decent things about Brandon at wildcard. I went with Jeff at FAST and I had an awesome experience with him as my motor builder. Hell, he even helps with other stuff like problems with your bike. Great guy in my book..... I have also heard good things about Kevin at hjr

Start with the easier stuff.......leak down test. 2strokes begin to "free rev" when they get unaccounted for air into the motor. If not jetted for the extra air leaking in it will free rev and eventually melt a hole in your pistons....

Are you sure you have the plugs sitting on a good ground when you kick the bike over to see spark? Also just take a look between your carbs.....is the choke tube connecting both carbs? After that then I would check the pickup gap for the flywheel...

you sure you were holding the bike at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE while you were doing that test? at 50 and 75 psi there is no way you were kick starting that thing. hell.....theres probably no conceivable way you could PULL start that thing without doing less than mach 1 hahaha. Either you forgot to hold the throttle open or your motor is screwed.

the TORS brain is a little black box located under the fuel tank on the left side of the bike. if you disconnect the brain it will disable the system to act as if there is no throttle safeties.

the 392 athena kit isn't prefered by alot of guys that have tried it before. alot of the guys come back saying the same thing.....didnt make as much power as they were expecting.... however alot of those guys usually wound up contacting a sponsor and wound up either with a strong port job or a different aftermarket kit from our sponsors and love every minute of them.