BANSHEE HP

its a shit hole lately, most of it closed off comapered to the 90's, if its not muddy its dusty,wouldnt take your rzr there at all.

broken tab underneath there. no where to put a screw...

took me 3-4 years to burn 2 steel plates on 100hp+ bike using the drive line performance lock out as well, couldnt be happier

this may have been covered already but im not going back through 30+ pages on thread... i know there will be ppl there thurs fri sat sun, but is there a day or time of day that everyone will be at the drag strip. like up here in michigan we usually all start getting things going around 12 and by 5 or so the track is whooped out, bikes are broken, and ppl are starting to dispurse. just wondering if its like that at LS so i can plan accordingly.

so the wayne fair drags werent up to snuff? i never saw a pic of that track but frigured it couldnt be more then a open field with some marker cones and maybe sum caution tape gaurd rails. if its not going to be a track thats open all year(summer) i cant imagine too much effort being thrown at a one day event.

if theres pics of a 300 ft sand track before this race ill go....

mike at lakes does good work, you wont have a problem with service or performance. his machining is good too if your going to do the sleeves.

what brand axle?... i just had a bunch of problems with a mod-quad 28inch drag axle, the key way were not machined correctly so the axle couldnt be centered. switched to a JJ&A while mod-quad is jerking me off for weeks about what they're gonna do, the jj&a mounts right up centered, chain alinged ready to go. ive used the modquad in 1/8 mile before no problems other then the chain will not aling because the keyways are machined wrong so i had to modify the spacers, big pain in the ass i dont know why i just didnt send it back when i found out all the stuff i had to do to the axle to get it to work right, also ive destroyed 3 mod-quad sproket hubs.

yah, i heard good things too.... forgot what they were tho

lol ur talking about the cpi racing logo... i dont know what the differences are on those but they are both stamped pipes, so people dont keep telling you that they're both stamped make it known that your talking about the logo that one pipe has and another doesnt.

both look stamped to me, opposed to coned pipes which you would see welds every 2 inches or so. stamped pipes are welded to eachother to form the pipe then header is cut for fitment on the bike

the magnets are glued in, shake the flywheel by your ear, if you hear clicking or anything the flywheel is bad, which i would expect from being hit wit ha hammer and the torch

shouldnt of stopped, if its a new car its fully insured

v-force recommends not to use a reed spacer

what cranks come in these kits?

permatex 518 red anarobic sealer, it will not setup until the air is removed(cases being put together).

I doubt that anyone has actually compared helical to straight on a dyno for a true side by side. i have didnt notice any hp gains

turn the bike on its side, all the oil will go to the trans and with the clutch level its easier to remove/install and the balls just stay put. the driveline performance slingshot style is very nice, my last clutch lasted 3 years with it(100+hp,asphalt+sand)and i like that you use the stock cover for a stealthy look

silver hills campground is pretty nice

wrong pipe all together, my 4mm cub made 75hp with a shearer 2 into 1 pipe, not saying that its the best but paul turners are defently not

does the piston go to the top of the bore?

just get upp's

Looking at the pics on rdz's website, those appear to be athena cylinders with the athena name ground off. The same picture with the chariot head that hes calling a rdz head? Ive had a pair of athena cylinders in my hands and the porting looks to be exactly the same. Right off his website they claim to be fully ported???