BANSHEE HP

8 spoke black 10x2 spindle mount wheels, fits banshee spindle. no scratches dents or sign of use. - $250 + shipping 68mm wsm blaster pin height pistons. not collapsed, rings are still good.( will work with 4mm longrod and 10mm 115 rod cranks for cubs etc.) $100 shipped twin row 40mm carrier with brake plate, im assuming its a Fireball carrier because thats what the brake plate is, decent condtion, it was ran in my bike this winter and memoriall day with no issuses. $100 + shipping

so what date is it?

should work, how far out are the studs sticking?

box and all..... i know its not a small box whens pipes show up... thats sucks

ahhhh..... ill just buy a new one off there site with carrier for $599 shipped

what kind of axle?

i wish scrap metal prices were this high in michigan....

4mm 421cc cub cylinder* bump for a good deal

reeds, intakes and cross over tube sold 2 sets of reed spacer still forsale

these are just sitting around collecting dust... shoot me an offer 1 set of stock intakes 2 cross over tubes 2 sets of reed spacers 1 set of stock pedal reeds stock pedal all in good shape one set of reed spacers is a little thicker then the other

vf-2's will flow more cfm then vf-3's ive never EVER had a screw in my vf-2's come loose the vf-2 pedals are just as easy to find as the 3's and ive seen a 1-3hp gain on the dyno using vf-2's

there are other ways grasshopper....

you have to use a diamond hone on nikasil cylinders. a ball hone or hone for steel sleeves will damage the nikasil.

110 gas is too much octane for 140psi, it will acctually make you go slower. lets just say that it was jetted perfect with 140's, running around your house or up and down the road. now take that bike with the same jetting and swtich to a paddle tire and throw the bike in the sand and the load on the motor is increased alot. turning those paddles in sand is alota more work for the motor then a dirt tire on grass/gravel/dirt/asphault. when i jet a bike on the dyno and know the air fuel ratio is spot on, i always go up a few sizes in jets when the bike will be running in the dunes. matt is right 180-140 is huge jump, and it was probally leaner then a popcorn fart in the sand.

Bump for a good seller.

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 ^ that is a spacer plate, not a gasket. a flat piece of aluminum will not seal between a head and cylinder without some sort of liquid gasket, regardless if the deck perfectly true.

what does cylinder decks not being true have to do with aynthing in this thread? he doesnt mention that cyl decks are outta wack. if your under the assumption that yama-bond/3-bond liquid gasket maker can not be used to seal a head to the cylinder then you are mistaken. ive used stock heads cut/rechambed for 68mm, with higher then 140psi, yamabonded straight to the cylinder and there has never been a problem. just as any aluminum base gasket spacer will need a top and bottum paper gasket to seal, the head spacer plate would require the same thing sumtihng to seal the head to the plate and the plate to the cyl and since we know there are no paper head gaskets.....what does that leave you with?..... yama-band/3-bond. lightly apply the yama-band to both sides of the plate(or head and cylinder), slide the plate over the studs, slide the head down on top of that and torque your head nuts. explain the how that is cobbled?

Mobile 1 5W-30 full synthetic, all ive ran for years.

yama-bonding both sides of the spacer would be the proper way to get it sealed.

i have 3 v-force 2 reeds for a arctic cat zrt 600 snowmobile. very good shape pedals all close tight to the cages. id like to get $200 o.b.o sorry for the blurry pic, i can txt more pics if desired.

once you get the studs out, run a 8x1.25 tap through them until they clean up, wd-40 and pb-blaster work well as a lubricant/cleaner. the figure 8 on sand paper duct taped to a flat surface does work, but your not going to be remove much material(cylinder deck). the point of doing it is to see that the whole surface of the cylinder is making contact with the sand paper, not to remove gouges. that being said i obviously cant see your cylinders or the extent of the damage. as far as what grit to use 200-300 or so and larger till its smooth, but again this is just to re-surface them not remove mm's on material. also when doing the figure 8 hold the cylinder in different positions so your not favoring the front of back etc. of the cylinder.

imo... bring it straight to the dyno, the air fuel meter will let you know your jetting right off, no point in chancing a (lean) burn down right outta the gate. with 19cc domes on a stk (64-65.50) bore(s) in michigan, with fresh topend should be into race gas compression 165/170psi or so and up.

allen

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-DRAG-RACING-160LINK-HEAVY-DUTY-GOLD-CHAIN-/290530320514?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a4f4e082 used this chain in sand and on asphault for 2-3 years on a 100hp+ bike, never had any problems with it.

interested in the pistons,pm me a price. i tried pming you, your pm's might be full it said you couldnt receive them.