BANSHEE HP

the vito cranks come welded and trued ,i pretty sure hot rods dont unless a shop buys some welds and resells. other then installing the crank just replace the crank seals make sure to grease the seals, check that the bearing markers(little tit on the crank bearin) are in the correct spot in the case and the half moon clips are in, then yama-bond or my favorite anarobic liquid gasket by perma-tex the cases back together

forgot to mention use hose clamps over the hose to connect to silencer and sparky

i think its 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 but the key is to use about a 3 or 4 inch piece of radiator hose (about the same diameter) as a connector if you will so the sparky doesnt actually touch your silencer. youll have to clean your sliencers after cuz of the oil build up but its better then them being all scratched up.

factory gaskets would be at a yamaha dealer, but that may not be your problem, or only one. which cylinder is smokin? you may have a crank seal leak on the right side and tranny oil would be burning up causing it to smoke and stink like crazy. if not then its prolly just a blown head gaseket, i would use some 3-bond or yamma-bond liquid gasket for some extra security

stock stroke is 54mm, and personally id get a vitos stock stroke crank theyre trued and welded already.

no problem

you just got your frame powder coated, did you sand off a place for your ground wire and the two tabs your coil mounts up to? i ve seen a lota ppl just forget to do that and its whats causing no running or shitty running

you can port the stuffer to match your intake, i did this on mine to match a upp intake

do you think candy will show e.t for only 500?, hes got in his head that this is the nhra and there should be 100k pay outs or wont race but im glad that sumone else just wants to see plan ole drag racing no b.s no e.t. crap

use the br9es or b9es its a colder heat range plug

ct did the porting on your cylinder is all, its deffently a l.a. sleeve cylinder

stock carbs into dragported cylinder into cpi pipe that just dont sound right prolly why the number dont look good.

i'd start around a 165-170 on the main then back down, you could go by fives if you dont have all the jets. what pilots are you running ? 50-60 should be good.

300 sounds too small to start at, i like to go real big then back down till the plugs look good. plugs are alot cheaper then rebuilds

thats an l.a. sleeve cylinder, the 400 means it prolly a stock stroke bigbore 68mm, would make it a 392 really but i think thats what they call it. just call them and they'll have all the replacement parts

i had a cub plated through vitos awhile back, they use millennium i think its was like $250 for strip, plate and diamond hone. it could be more depending on if they need to be welded or fix detination .

you need to go to a fastener store or place that sells bolts, not the local hardware though. get a 30mm bolt(the hex) bout 3 or 4 inches long and 2 nuts that fit the threads, back them up together and you should be good. like the guy before said spray pb blaster on there for a day or 2, then use a large adjustable wrench and pipe for leverage. i remember when i replaced my first one i had no idea how to do it i went to the local yamaha dealer asked them how to go about it they told me there was no bearing there cuz the copmuter didnt show it, i ended up going to my local fastener store and pickin that nut(s) and bolt up. its always in my tool box and ppl are always askin me why i have it in there.... ok i just looked at ur pics again the bolt you buy has to have threads up to the bolt head.

you ever think of callin vitos, theyd prolly have an idea

you've only got one option and its 13 degree, those piston have the standard dome angle (13degree) and 21cc should get you up to 155 or so.

4.32 in the 1/8 mile isnt too bad, considering dan hulls 18mill dmx went only went 5.55

doesnt sound like you have a big bore at all... 513mo6450(0.020 over std. bore) they're wiseco pistons, the piston can collaspe over time so that prolly why they measure 64.25 but what stmaped on top is what they are. id have the cylinder measure correctly with a dial bore gauge to till if they outta round and/or what exact size they are could be a worn bore already.

its supposed to add like 7%, i played with that stuff and power-mist(33% nitromethane) now this is tuning done on a dyno with an air fuel meter so this isn't just stuff im making up, with the klotz i lost about 7% went from high 90's down to low 90's high 80's no matter how much of the klotz i added as well as jet. the results were basically the same with the power-mist, the one thing i didnt do was have a shit ton of compression mine was only like 160-170, a few ppl told be that high compression(200psi) was the key for that stuff to work, i dont think that would help my cause because of all the rpm's that i/you would lose from the high compression. i bought a case of each product the power-mist is like $115 a gallon and the klotz is like $10 a can. just make sure to bump up your jets if you choose to go with either.

had one awhile back ran real well, mine was a stock stroke with 34's and vitos pipes, no porting,v-froce,lil timing, pump gas...made 69-72hp just about every pull after tuning,imho thats a good runner for the dunes and sum draggin.

i didnt bother reading all the post in this thread for obvious reasons but 100+ mph on a banshee based motor is hard to do...now its diffently not impossible ive been 101mph in the 1/8th mile. that was with a 4mm cub(100hp) on gas shearer custon pipes(11,000rpm) 18" american racer tire (balanced) 1-5 override tranny gearing ranging from 17-19 on the front and as low as 34 on the back, of cousre a drag chassis +10 front and +12-14 rear. no paul turner pipe or bike with anything less then that will do 100+

you could use stock carbs, as long as they're jetted properly there shouldnt be a bog, although those cylinders are basically a drag port so your bottom end wont be like stock cylinders. with good compression it'll run good.