BANSHEE HP

^^^^you must not be looking at the exhaust port in the first and third pic, the reason they are smaller is because they're 68mm bore and ur stock cylinders are not, stock cylinders with big bore sleeves will have smaller transfer port area because the sleeve has a larger o.d.(as well as i.d.)

+10 degrees timing???? if so thats ur problem right there. as far as fuel if you have under 155psi you can run premium pump fuel 92-94 octane but with around 4 degrees advanced timing. if your cub is a 68mm bore 22cc domes would be safe for pump gas.

driveline performance on e-bay,they sell lock ups and clutch kits. f.a.s.t clutches are driveline clutches. check out their lockup as well, fits under the stock cover.

just bend the clutch lever down a lil and youll clear the lever

.080 over is 66mm, are you going to use a 4mm crank? weather you are or not 33's will work work just not going to see the peak hp you would with 35-38's. but if your not drag racing then i doubt youll miss the power

2 out the same side really take a beating in the dunes

no performance gains one over the other, theyre both 4mills. the long rod uses a different piston (573 or 795 seris piston) the standard rod uses stock pin height piston that uses a spacer plate, or you have your head/domes machined.

try to sell it for $15 to a buddy of the guy who sold it to you, then youll be up $5 and out from underneath this bad head.

best clutches on the market, k&t use them in there bikes. drivelines lockup clutch is also top notch, fits under the stock cover with only a few lil modifcations.

no problem, feel free to pm me if you have more quesitons

first of all always use new seals, you didnt say that you re-used them but sum ppl do and thats no good. second always grease them, you dont need gobs of grease just a coating on the outside dia. and the inside dia. where the crank touches the seal and where the cases touch the seals is where you need to grease. youll prolly need to re-ring ur pistons if ur down to 100psi. $25 for a clymer manual, $50 or so for rings and $20 for seals, if thats all you need about 100bucks and few hours work and youll be good. when you say you rode it for 2 hours did you ride it smoking for 2 hours or was that when you noticed it and stopped riding?

^^^ agreed, tried the same thing on my vito fat bastards worked the first day but day number 2 had the bitch of all bitches at the booth....needless to say $150 later i had 2 sparkies and they let me back in. also she warned that if she really wanted i could be ticketed for trying such a crafted move.

call hot rods and give them that number

your in luck i have a nice pair of shearer big bore big flange in frame pipes for sale, i used them not even 1 season made good power on my 10mill, pm if your interested in them

they are very legit, the headers are larger and the expansion chamber is give or take twice the size of a dyno port or moto fast.

272 is not a jet for a pwk or mikuni carbs that i know of, but if for some reason that is the jet size then your waaaay fat and thats why your not reving out btwn 155-170 is about whered u be...im running a 155 same motor but a pwm carb lil diff then pwk

vitos power piston

thicker intake windows sounds good, i stopped using wsm's because of cracking brides. i had some of theyre older 68 and 68.5 pistons with they're older billet mono block never had a problem with those

was this thread created on april fools or sumthing, it has to be a joke at this point

oh and im bored .060 over so that makes my bike a 410cc right?

when you drop a banshee out of a airplane they go about 120mph...a gps isnt the way you go about finding out how fast your bike is, taking it to a drag strip with a timing sysytem or a chassis dyno is the only accurate way

worm holes arnt helpin that motor any, the intake is already huge. whats the exhaust port look likeq?

first what kind of compression do you have now with the 17's? high i would assume

the degree keys that are being sheared off are being installed incoorectly, a degeree key is just a clocking device. ppl are not seating the flywheel correctly and are not correctly torquing the flywheel nut down. if you notice most pple that break the key happens almost immediatly. degreekeys are a big item in the snowmobile industry, but i agree that the timing plate is more practical in most cases being that today it could be set a 4 degrees and tommorow 10.

nope the perma-tex anarobic or lock tite anarobic sealer is red and , yama-bond is the grey stuff