baker

nope my top a arm is backwards compared to that pic, curved part towards front of bike,and the shock is real close to the backside of the top a arm

so i bought some aftermarket arms off a member here and im wondering if the top arms are on the wrong side? the bottom arms are straight acrossthe front and angled at the back and the top arms are opposite, angled in the front and straight across the back. they came all set up with hubs and spindles ready to bolt on but im thinkin they might be set up wrong, not really sure. any help or pics of +2 arms on the shee would be awesome thanks. only pics i have now are on my phone as the seller had them on his bike, if ya need a pic ill send via text but i cant load here

bump for a good seller!! i bought the a arms and tierods, he sent me complete front end with hubs still on and a billet kicker to boot. dont hesitate guys buy some parts. if i had some extra cash the motor would be mine too. lol

dont take me the wrong way, cause i applaud your effort and ability to make your own parts cause i certainly wouldnt be able too but that is the ugliest thing ive seen in a while. looks like a grocery basket on the front of it. again its just my opinion im not trying to start a bashing thread or nuthin like that. good work just not my style........ i know its not mine so why should you care you ask?? you shouldnt

so how is he supposed to make sure the flywheel is tight by pulling the clutch cover???? i think he would make out better by pulling the stator/flywheel cover off. just an idea tho, to each their own

if you can only get 65psi after a rebuild, yes some one fucked up, either the shop over bored or you got the wrong pistons in it. ya got the rings in the right slots right? i would take it apart and see whats going on in your motor before it gets messed up even more

this is my modo in everything i drive or ride! WHEN IN DOUBT FUCKIN GAS IT! so far it has worked well

its your stator im pretty sure, i cant remember the testing procedure off the top of my head but the manual i have IS right and is the same as akheathan told me and he builds stators if your results are not spot on with the manual you need a stator. mine would test good one time then bad another. just buy the 200 watt stator off egay and toull be set, mine died the same way, riding along and all the sudden died no spark. new stator= problem solved. clymers manual dont lie

i was gonna say the same thing, probly hook up better with the paddles on right, especially if you got 90 horse power. ive got a 85 monte ss with 500 horse ill trade ya if ya want to come to ny to get it,lol. im serious

well now all ya gotta due is bend one tube just right, then you can use it to smoke more crack out of it,lol. wtf chrome boost bottle

i got all the parts you need, spindles 50 shipped, front holeshot xcs on rims 120 and ill throw the nut in the box let me know if ya want some or all

i got a set of nerfs 65 shipped

i hope you dont plan on that paint staying on there for long, cause it wont. the tank actually breathes through the plastic and your paint will come right off. ever put a sticker on a aftermarket tank? if so then ya know what i mean, if not you will find out shortly,lol

i do agree with what has been said already but i would also say its time for a top end! 15 psi difference is not good, i wouldnt even say 115 is good but everybody has there own oppinion on when to rebuild, do it now and you will save money in the long run

do a compression check and clean the carbs, if carbs are clean its probly time for a rebuild. push the parking brake lever all the way out just to be sure its not that, my buddys warrior did the same thing and like a moron i cleaned the carbs 3 times b4 checking the parking prake switch cause i always remove the parking brake asap on all yamahas i own.

i got a whole blaster chassis sittin out by the scrap pile i just couldnt bring myself to scrap it tho, you pay the shipping both ways and its a deal, let me know by pm if interested

well they aint off an 05 but they are off a 99 both sides complete with hubs spindles and rotors all in good shape, arms could use new paint or powder coat 200 plus the ride for all, obo. can email ya pics if interested

keep your t5s bro the dynoport set up sucks. ya it sounds awesome but it robs your top end like a mother fucker. beleive me i got two shees and had the dynoport on one and it was a terd till i put the fattys on. ask around not many people have good things to say about the dynoport pipe.

what does it really matter? your not gonna see them and you shouldnt ever bottom out so bad that a few bolt heads are diging in to the ground, if ya gotta worry bout that then ya better buy some shocks not a skid plate

that dont sound like a 65 hp build to me but hey i guess i could be wrong, now i gotta get mine on a dyno if you got 65 with those mods id have to have 75. shit now im really wondering.........

if ya part it i want dibs on the frame, pm me if it comes down to a part out

i have a few adjustable timing plates used but like new 25+the ride. pm me if ya want one

i got some id rather sell both sides complete and together though. make me an offer on all or one complete side. they are complete with hubs spindles everything but brakes

i got a set of fattys, gold series with procircut silencers id let go for 250 plus the ride, if my motor sells. i got a guy interested in it just waiting to hear back

it is a hinson but i dont have the hub, i was thinking of the basket itself not the hub, my bad whats with all the retards on here thinking everybody is on a pipe