So Cal Suspension

What the shit.

Gross.

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I wasn't the genius that decided to put the sticker on there. I wish I could stake claim to that, though. As far as a DC conversion walkthrough. Trail Tech has a VERY good instructional on floating the ground on the stator. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/stators/AC-DC_Banshee_Stator_Conversion_Instructions.pdf (The only thing they don't make clear, is when you add the wire to the ground, make it like 3 feet long to give yourself plenty of room to work with. That wire has to run to your new Reg/Rec) As far as wiring in the regulator/rectifier, the one stock wire for the lighting circuit, matched up with the new wire you just added, goes to the reg/rec, Red wire goes to the "high beam" side of your light switch, and the black wire goes to the negative side of your lights. That's it.

Yeah. Our group is usually about 20-30 coaches and trailers. The wind up at Gecko sometimes drives me nuts, and I can't stand how much shit gets stolen up there. We like to stay in the washes where everything is low key, we can make our circle, and not have to camp along side the road.

Willard, your question was not regarding HID's. You asked about the Tusk or PIAA Halogen bulbs. It's most definitely not a "plug and play" conversion, though. HID lights require DC current, and DC current ONLY. The ballasts ALSO require a battery or a capacitor to give them that extra "burst" of energy they need to ignite the bulbs. A DC Conversion with a battery or capacitor is mandatory. A DC Conversion involves desoldering and moving a wire inside the stator, as well as wiring in an aftermarket regulator/rectifier. With HID's needing a battery or cap, there will be a little extra wiring required, but it's certainly do-able. Also, remember that you lose output wattage after doing a DC conversion. I have seen people run 35w HID bulbs, but I would venture to say that that output of the stator post-DC is closer to 60w total.

My 05 SE was electric start, and had reverse. They had an option in 05 and 06 for turbos, but it wasn't offered in the US or Canada. 2003 yellow and black SE's had a 4.3 gallon tank, and came with different transmission gears for top speed. Some of those bikes could hit 120mph, easy. I know, my friend has one.

Has anyone weighed one of these conversion bikes? My guess would be an added 60lbs+, in otherwise stock trim.

I can get you a complete 10mil, fully built with dyno time only, $21k shipped.

Gecko is too small for our rigs and group. We usually have about half of wash 4. Just look for the helicopter on top of a stacker trailer.

HELL NO! yes.

The Chrome powdercoat sucks. I'd never use it on a frame. It's a very soft powder and won't hold up to rocks, or getting sand blasted in the dunes. It would be significantly cheaper than Chrome though, to have it re-done every year.

It's not. Use Photobucket.

It's usually a good idea to keep 12 gallons of gas 6 feet from your water heater.

Use the one. But upload bigger pictures. That one is ridiculously small.

Throw a multimeter on your light plugs and see if you're getting any power when the bike is running. It could be wiring, or the switch took a dump.

912 Area code pretty much covers most of Southeast GA.

Again with the "motion ratio" ... I hate to see our members fed misinformation. True, that the closer the shock is the easier it is to dampen to small light "choppy" stuff, but works awful in terms of (long) total wheel travel. The closer the shock is to the wheel, the further the shaft has to extend and collapse, for the same amount of wheel travel as a shock mounted 5" in from the spindle. The geometry involved in basic A-Arm systems is such that you have to find that happy medium. You can't run a 18" shock all the way at the spindle, and expect to get the same amount of travel as a 17" shock 4" in from the spindle. It won't happen and frankly goes against any and all common sense. In simple, easy to understand words, your shock will bottom out on itself before you utilize all available wheel travel if your shock is mounted too close to the spindle. It's basic geometry. Don't do it.

I'm not sure what a "motion ratio" is, but the Ohlins, unless they are set up for a 350lb rider on +3's, will be softer than stock. MUCH softer. Also, the OP has aftermarket A-Arms. The best way to find out if they'll work, is just to bolt them up and see how the bike sits. If it sits low, odds are you have the FF arms made for the YFZ450 shocks. If the frame is sitting on the ground, you have Long Travel a-arms that are designed for an 18.75"-19.25" shock.

Great points. The key as a SELLER, is to protect yourself. Take tons of pictures before you ship of item condition and any damage, ONLY accept PayPal or Money Orders, KEEP THE SHIPPING RECEIPT, and pay the extra for a signature confirmation. If you use PayPal, they have a "multi-order shipping" system, where you can pay, and print shipping labels right there from your paypal. Then, PayPal cannot say you didn't ever ship the item. EVERY item shipped with PayPal automatically gets Delivery Confirmation, but make sure you check the box for signature confirmation. As a BUYER, NEVER pay as a Gift. Just add 3% to your transaction and cover the fees. Also, request TONS of pictures. If the seller only has one or two pictures, move on. If they can't be bothered to take as many pictures as you want, they can't be bothered to sell their item.

Most lotions have petroleum products in them. edit: In case you didn't know, grease is 100% petroleum.

Just FYI, any petroleum based products have a tendency to degrade o-rings. I've always kept a stick of regular old chap stick in my tool box, and use that in all the o-ring grooves. Works perfect, and water based.

Yeah, it was just a shot in the dark. I had no idea what you were trying to ask.

Better hurry... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150232

When you did the DC conversion, did you change the Regulator to a regulator/rectifier? If not, you fried your stock regulator, which is OK, because it needed to be replaced anyways... Also, the stock stator is the best one you can buy. Most aftermarket stators are junk.