So Cal Suspension

Well, it's unlikely that you'll find someone who wants both sets, since they will be for two different motors... I think if you want to sell them quick, advertise them on the right sites, and I'd start at $700 a set. There's some die-hard Brooks guys out there, and certain builders that would ONLY use Brooks.

Are they used or brand new? If they're used, they might not be worth much. Since they are used in high-revving high horsepower motors they tend to stretch, so measure each one against the others, and see if you get any difference. If they're brand new, sell em now... Much longer and people will forget about Brooks.

Hit up David... DDQ... You keep up with him on the track, and I will eat crow. You already lose.

They are Brooks brand. The Brooks 65 rods are 6.5". They sell for like 750-800 new. The Brooks 88 rods should be anywhere from 7.07"-7.23". They sell for about 650-700 a set, new. VERY good product. I've seen 1500hp+ motors running Brooks rods without a single issue. Top Alcohol cars run these things all day long, and I've seen 2500hp drag boats make 50+ passes on those rods. In a street vehicle, they'd be practically indestructible. They are from Anaheim, CA and have been making rods since the mid 80's, I believe. Edit: I just read that they went out of business in 2010... Something about money troubles... That's too bad...

I just found some for 71.49ea shipped. With Genuine K&N pods and outwears, I got a total of $234.10 shipped, from eBay. I'm not sure if these are new or used, but if they are used, I'd say 140-150 shipped for everything is a fair price.

Make your gallery public, so we can see the pictures.

No. You'd need a AA charger... You will not be able to charge ANY type of battery off of your current electrical system. Your bike puts out AC current. ALL batteries are DC current.

Or, what I'd do, is use one of these, and get a charger for it from the hobby shop... http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-6V-NiCD-2500mAh-Battery-Pack-RC-Tank-Car-Airsoft-/270290744106?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3eee95732a 2500MAH would let you run those lights for like 10-12 hours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Box-holder-Case-6-AA-6AA-Batteries-9V-wire-/220869584037?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336cda64a5 You could get one of these, and use rechargeable AA's

Oh, they're the same price, and have the same picture on TDR's site.

About 40 grams... you can buy them at 7-11... they're about 3 bucks each. Kinda look like these.

I'm assuming you're talking about LED underbody lights, since any other option (Neon) would be beyond ridiculous. LED's are Diodes, hence the name, Light Emitting Diode. Diodes flow electricity in ONE direction only. (Direct Current) Banshee's stock light power is AC current. (Alternating Current) Low power LED's will WORK on AC current but not for very long, as the current is "pulsing" through the diode typically @ 60hz. LED tail lights, for example, are low power LED's; generally less than .5w each. To get LEDs to last, do a DC conversion. Simply drawing from your tail light I guess would work for a little while, but kinda jerry rigged, if you ask me... I wouldn't draw any more than an addition 5w of power on the stock stator if you're still running 35w headlight bulbs. Personally, I think underbody lights belong on honda civics with fart can exhaust.

Here's another thread about this same topic. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137053&st=0

Gotcha! Maybe it's just cuz I've never seen a hauler buffed. Good info right there.

I don't mind sharing.

bump

Don't quit now! This shit is 3 years in the making! 9 pages of pure bliss!

Buy Chinese. They won't try to close down your dunes.

I need a 13mm 3/8 socket.

It kinda depends on what kind of riding you do. If it's a drag bike, go with extremes. If it's a dune bike, stick with haulers. From what I can remember (I've only owned Haulers), Extremes are a buffed tire, and would be more susceptible to punctures on a dune bike.

Pictures?

This happened to me, but my bike got stuck in 3rd gear. I limped it back to the trailer, shut it down, and was ready for my trip to be over. When I went to load up, I figured I'd give it another shot, and it shifted through all the gears perfectly fine. Ran it for two more seasons after that with no issues...

I've never wasted much time on the front shocks, but I think once the spring is compressed in a spring compressor, the lower red end unthreads. Not sure though. The rear shock you can get the spring off without a compressor but unthreading both preload nuts all the way, and it should loosen the spring enough to slide out the lower spring retainer. It's shaped like a "c" and just slides out. Good luck getting the preload back where it was, though. I'd use a spring compressor.

Also, why is a wanted ad posted in a For Sale section?