broncbob

I like the feel of the TRX better than the YFZ, The yammie feels like I'm way up there, the TRX feels like I'm more planted on the bike. The TRX is cheaper to hop up than the YFZ. The TRX has better suspension out of the box in my opinion. The TRX can be fitted with a kicker and push button start as well.

I have it fired and heat cycled. I should have it all back together tonight, and I'll take some glam shots before it goes to the dunes and get's dirty for the first time. It sounds good, and I can't wait to get her on the sand to get the tune on it! Then it all get's blown back apart this winter for a total frame shave and powder coat and chrome. On a side note, there is a Banshee restorer that is cussing my name some where. This thing is the cleanest used shee I have ever seen. Brandon told me there is zero wear on the inside of the engine, and that the cases are the cleanest ones he has ever seen this side of brand new. The frame is in good shape, with just some paint wear where the PO strapped it down. The dirt tires are brand new, they all still have the ink lines around them, and the PO used to dirt fronts to ride in the sand! When I bought it, it had a set of T-5 pipes and a K&N in the stock air box, that's it. other than that it was bone stock! IT was dirty as fuck, but a few bucks at the car wash this thing looked all most new! The best part is I stole a all most new 96 for $1400 bones! By the way, the Jager bottle is waiting to become a sobe bomb, they make a hell of a fire ball!

So here it is! It's a 4 mill stock bore done by Brandon at Wildcard. If this thing runs half as good as it looks, it's going to scream! Specs are 4 mill crank that has been trued and welded, aggressive dune port, port matched cases, boost ported pistons, V force 3 reeds, K&T intake, 34mm Mikuni carbs, boss filters, Noss machine cool head with Noss stroker domes.

Closed course racing is a lot different than the rest of us in the real world, vary rarely are they dusty races, the tracks get watered to prevent that. How many foam filters do you see on say winged outlaw cars? They also run closed course, but make about 10 times the HP as a motorcycle.

I'm in the use to work, but don't now category.

The K&N in the video, if it was a K&N was under oiled. I don't know what paper filter they were using, but any good paper filter stops more crap than either foam or K&N, but is by far the most restrictive by far. All in all, they are hawking the foam filter in the test, so who do you think is going to win? Foam isn't a bad filter, it's just a huge pain in the ass. They suck to clean, they suck to oil just right, and they suck to install. They only thing I have ever found foam good for is muddy conditions, and then I like them warped around a K&N filter to keep the big chunks off of my outerwear, with NO oil on it what so ever. Can you name me one form of racing that uses a open filter set up that uses foam as the primary filter?

If you want to really hold the dust out, run paper. Oiled foam is about as gay as aids. They clog far faster than any filter and then the dirt works is it's way through. I would never run foam on any thing but a dirt bike in muddy conditions, if it was in the air box. I ride sand, and I run with guys who ride hard every year, and there isn't a foam filter in the bunch. All K&N's with outerwears. We are talking about banshee's, VW, and auto craft based VW, subbies, rotary, ford 4 bangers, caddy north star, and a whack of other 2 and 4 stroke bikes, trikes, and 4 wheelers. Not one of them have to been rebuilt due to getting dusted through a K&N filter with a outerwear. I'd say the jury is back, and K&N filters with a outterwear when maintained in a correct fashion keeps crap out of engines in the worst conditions know to man (sand) I'd say they work. I have found dirt and dust gummed up on the inside of foam filters, that means that that stuff made it's way through the filter. Maintenance on K&N filters is easy to boot, way better than trying to get the goo out of a foam filter, and re-oiled.

PM sent on the Shaw....

K&N's that are maintained as they should be will not pass any more dirt than foam, add outerwears and they stop more than foam, and stay cleaner longer. The problem with the set up in question are the reed spacers. Ditch the spacers and life will be good man. You might need to get a different intake to make it clear the clutch arm.

I have to whack a few things off my frame, and I want to touch it up and ride it for the rest of the year to make sure there isn't any thing else I want to whack off or fix before I send it in for powder coat this winter. Is there a spray bomb paint out there that matches or is a close match to the silver frames?

The only problem with the dunes in CA, are well they are in CA. I refuse to give money to that state! I live in UT and ride LS UT a lot. I also make a week trip to St A. every year. Other than the long weekends, LS UT is a calm place with a big hill and big dunes to ride out back. You can go for miles and miles riding sand, and if you don't mind taking it easy in a few places, you can go even further. The suck part is they just raised the prices for passes. Night riding is fun, even with out the full moon. St A. is the place to go for big long high speed dune ridding. The dunes are tall, long and fast, and normally have nice transitions. Only your state registration and a whip is needed. Night riding there can mean trouble if you think you can go as fast as you do during the day. There is a small lake you can go kick it at when it gets hot, and is a hot spot to meet and BS with folks. Chokecherry is a hill like no other, and the set up I bring from LS UT doesn't work there as well as it does on sand mountain. Devils dune is something to see while your there, and it's kinda fun to see how fast your junk will really go.

I'm trying to figure out how paddle tire inflation effects hook up? I have been told a lot of conflicting info, and I want to know for sure if I air up, or down how it will effect hook up and such.

I have heard good and bad with these. Seams like they are hit or miss on quality. The guys that have had good luck with them love them, the guys who have had problems with them had problems with the cups splitting, or coming off the tire. Seams like a gamble to me, but a cheap one.

If you want to keep the D-bags out, Charge a $500 cash fee with your registration for a tear down fee, refundable only after the race is over. If you lose, you get your money back, if you win and you go through tear down, you get your money back, if you refuse, money forfeited, you get DQ'd and you move down the ladder till you find a guy who will tear down to get your winner. Now to solve any D-baggery during the race, if your a ass, your DQ'd and you lose your money. At any point that you get DQ'd you never race again, ever. With the advent of laptops and such it would be easy to keep a list of people who can no longer compete.

I have a friend that dunes Shaws, BUT the gas pressure has been lowered a long way. I have road it, and they handle about as well as the low line Works he has on it before.

Yes you need a chain slider, and that one looks to be about shot. I'd get new one to put on before you reassemble.

I'd give Herr Jugs a call and get some help from him. He can give you a idea what domes you need to run, and can get you the parts as well. Great guy to deal with as well!

It vents the trany when the engine warms up. It might have got crap in it from a number of things. I would pull it off, clean it out, check the fluid lever in the transmission and put it back on and see if it still pukes.

You might have just got it installed wrong? Now on the the piston, what elevation you at? Do you have a compression numbers that it was before the piston broke?

I guess it depends on who's stuff you get, but the chain slider that I got replaces that. I have never seen a aftermarket set up that keeps the stock slider.

O ring on the head??

It's the trany vent it sounds like. It can mean a few things, over full, crank case leaking into trany, or just crap in the vent tube.

PM sent

I *think* the stock axle is 35mm, and the drag axle is 40mm.

Check for leaks, then check the carbs, you may have picked up some junk in them. Did you look at the plugs? They are a good indication of what the jetting looks like. Ditch the boost junk and get new intake boots while your at it if they are cracked.