broncbob

Was the engine rebuilt not long ago? What do the plugs look like? Did you add any oil to the engine when you stored it? What does the packing in the silencers look like?

To start off with, what is the difference between the TM and the TMX carbs? Should I stay away from one or the other due to poor design or tuning problems? What slide cut away should I be looking for with both carbs? I know there are intakes for the TM carbs, but what about TMX carbs? The carbs would be for a stock bore 4mill with a dune port running at about 5000' Thanks for the help, and sorry about the kinda long list of questions.

Thanks for the tips, but I'm going to have a local company do them for me. The price is rather reasonable at $180 to do every thing but the silencers.

I have a chromed set of T5's that were on my 96 when i bought it. Problem is that the chrome is very dull and it has started to rust in spots. The rust isn't that bad, but bad enough that to get it off I think the shabby looking chrome is going to suffer. I call a chrome shop that comes highly recommended about having them re-chromed, and I was told that it can turn out to very expensive to do. The main problem being having to deal with the chrome that is on them now. That brings up having them ceramic coated. I have seen it done on lots of 4 stroke pipes, but never on 2 stroke pipes. I'm sure it will handle the heat just fine, but what about all the vibration?

I happen to know where there is a banshee gas tank that has the pingle valve glued in with JB, and has been for better than a year with no problems. I happen to own a diesel fired heater that the drain plug is sealed to the tank with JB, and I have had no problems with it. I know of some heads on a 455 Pontiac based engine that has repairs done to the port work with JB. Maybe it's the type of oil you use? The quad in question with the glued in pingle uses nothing but Klotz. But the list of fuels from above runs the gamut, from race gas to diesel. The stuff is good, but only as good as your prep work. I have never had it fail me on any application I have used it for, and there has been some strange stuff come up. The only issue I see with using it for the original question at hand is, how well you are able to prep the area to be sealed. If it was clean, and roughed up enough, it should be fine. The only other way to repair it would to be to weld it, and it doesn't sound like a option here. I would look into it, as I know you can weld cast aluminum, and port work is not cheap. Devcon is the shit, but it's expensive, and harder to find.

I'm not sure why you guys have trouble with JB weld holding up to a gas/oil mix? It has all ways worked for me. I have repaired a few gas tanks holding straight gas, pre-mix, and even diesel. The key to getting it to make a good repair it surface prep. You need to clean it very well, and rough the areas up. Then you need to mix it as instructed, and apply and let cure for at least 24 hours. Longer if you have made a thick joint. After all, JB is a epoxy, and what do you think port work on car and 4 stroke heads are done with? Yep epoxy, and even JB weld.

My HP laptop won't boot. It will turn on, and I can stop the boot to do the self tests. The memory tests fine, then the hard drive test starts, but nothing happens. It stays at 00%. I have been told that the mother board is junk. Any other opinions? If it matters, it's running windows Vista home 64 bit.

Have you done a plug chop? Knowing if your jetting is good will help you to know if your chasing the wrong problem. It'd be aids gay to replace the stator if all you need is a re-jet.

The compression test should be done warm. Get the engine to operating temp and re-test. Open the throttle all the way and kick till the gage quits going up. Make sure the plug hole area is clean to provide a good seal with the tester. You should see higher numbers, and maybe even see the cylinders even out.

I plan on trying Mull's filter set up on them. The rubber connection hose on it mic's out to 44-45MM on the ID. I found out that the air bell on the TM 28's should be 44MM.

What Size intake boots and filters do I need. What is a good range of jets to have on hand for tuning at around 5000', as well what needles are a good idea to have on hand. This would be on a quad that has a cool head 19CC domes, +4 timing and T5's Is it normal to have one carb set up with a choke lever, and one with a choke knob?

What intake boots and filter sizes would I need for a set of Mikuni TM 28's?

Has any one run these on a banshee?

Have you ever road a 421? They are a monster, and at the very edge of even being what I'd call a duneable quad in less your dunes are big and open. I have a buddy that has one, and it's the shit for the hill and short rides in the dunes. Much more than that I think it sucks. It's a ton of work to ride in tight dunes, and boy when that thing get's on the pipe it's gone! There just isn't any riding just on the pipe, once it's on, it's on and hauling the mail!

Yep, most likely a bent shift fork. Common problem with first gear, people seam to think that it needs to be repeatably stomped when down shifting.

I searched, and I believe that I can use the stock intake boots, but I didn't seam to find much about filter size? I have pods on my stock carbs, will these fit the 28PKW's that I have on the way?

I grew up on bikes, and didn't ride a quad till I was in my early 20's(I'm 34 now) and I still hate a twist on a quad.

Twist on any thing but a 2 wheeler is a bad idea if you ask me. On a bike you lean to do most of your turning. On a quad you have to turn the bars and lean off the pig to get it to turn. All of that moving around makes a twist hard to control, especially in the tight stuff where your really moving around to get the quad to carve the lines If all you ever do is flat drag, and MAYBE hill shots on a very smooth hill, a twist may work well.

The 96 I just picked up has like new head lights. They are rather bright for shee lights and buy far the brightest in the group I ride with, and I have the oldest rig. The thing I notice, it the reflectors seam to not age well, and the lenses seam to haze over. What can I do to keep my lights in the like brand new shape they are in, short of taking them off?

I have a gallon jug of Klotz R50 that has to be going on 5 years old now. It was opened and about a quart used, then capped and stored in the garage. It actually came with a 96 that I just picked up, and the bike was last rode in 05.

What color is the plug out of the half dead side? I'm guessing that it never picks up color? I think you got's a head or base gasket the has shat the bed on you.

The shee looks flat out mean with the fronts cut! As for the rears, mine is a sand only gig, and the thought of 8 paddle haluers running up the back of my leg makes me keep the rears and the heels guards.

Car wash. Cold high pressure takes the sticker off, then high pressure warm to get the goo off. Skip the goofoff, it can melt some plastics. Just ask my brother what happened when you try and clean the frames of Oakley gas cans!

Rotella Dino