broncbob

So what are you guys using for socket organization in your tool boxes? I have used socket bars in the past and now, but I have never found any I really like that much. I have found some stuff on the craftsman website, but it seams like their shit is hit and miss any more. I'm not sure if I want to go with bars again, or something that would stay in the drawers. I think I would like a mix of both, some bars for the stuff I use a lot, and something to hold sockets that only come out now and then. If it matters they will be going in craftsman tool boxes, with 16" deep drawers.

I did the math......the BS to intelligent is about 32:1! I run a cool head because the builder who did my port work recomended that I run one. It looks good, and it's simple to deal with when I need to pull it. I'd like to thank Noss Machine for making a good looking head, and Brandon at Wildcard for cutting on my cylinders and giving me the 4 mill I was dreaming of!

All the prices I can find on Axis shocks are higher than Elkas! Where are you finding them cheaper?

I'm in the market for new shocks all around, but I'm kinda lost on what I should get on the front end. I don't want to blow more money than I really have to. I ride the dunes, aggressively. Not a lot of jumps, but lots of high speed bowels and g outs and rough sand from time to time. I come in at 290 ready to ride, I have stock A arms and a +6 swing arm. I'm thinking a stage 3 in the rear, but I'm not sure what to get in the front. I have friends that run works steelers and love them, but nothing better than that.

What kind of porting do the cylinders have?

Yes, if you are putting the two wires together from the key switch you should have spark. My first question is, do you still have the TORS and is it hooked up?

Get them to change the MPH reading to RPM, MPH is useless!

Ok, so you have dyno numbers, how does it feel when you ride it?

There are only a few things the make aluminum eat away like that, chemical or electrolysis are the two that might be at work here.

What ball joints do they run, and what length of shocks are they set up for?

So after looking at the parts diagram, it's 5th gear pinion that is stuck on the shaft. From what I can gather, it is supposed to free wheel on the shaft. So anyone have a clue why it would fail?

I was out with my new build last weekend and my transmission locked up. It would not shift through the gears, and if you fired the engine and tried to let the clutch out, it would kill it. I tore it down last night and found the shift fork in the front was rather crispy looking, and the big gear on the clutch side of the front shaft not free wheeling. It would be the gear next to the gear that is machined onto the shaft, I think. The transmission also had a metallic sludge in the bottom of it. I'm not a transmission expert, and this is the first one I have had to deal with, so I have a few questions. 1) Is the gear that I think should free wheel, is it supposed to free wheel? 2) What would cause this failure? The transmission was full of oil, and I didn't beat the transmission in any fashion.

They are nothing better than egg beaters for the sand. I have never seen a bike they work well on when compared to a hauler. To give you a idea of what I'm talking about, a guy in our group had a set on his 700 rappy. I gave him a set of 8 blade haulers that were wore down to about the height of a glider, and it mad a world of difference for him. Better climbing, faster and a better running tire all around. So, I guess if you think that gecko tires a great, try out a real paddle and see what you have been missing!

Un plug the tors brain and try it again.

Does it have a adjustable timing plate? If so, what is it set as? What fuel, what oil and what ratio are you running?

Sounds kinda big on the mains......what do the plugs look like?

Clean looking stocker bro Wow, I can't believe how much stuff mine has shed from stock!

First two would make killer stickers, and the second to the last would be cool on a shirt. I'll be watching for the new stuff to come out for sure!

My friend just had his jugs punched after 7 hard years of dune riding. The next size up all most didn't clean it up the right side! This bike still ran and started great, but he has been chasing a odd tuning problem in the mid range that he couldn't get to go away. His compression numbers showed that he was due as well, 130 LBS and 134 LBS with 17cc domes at 5000'.

Kim from K&T recommends 3 ounces of Klotz R-50 to one gallon of gas, or in your case the would 15 ounces to 5 gallons of gas. This is just a shade over 40:1, if you want to run 40:1, it's 16 ounces per 5 gallons. Here is a link http://texhomatrialsclub.com/public_files/TXTC_premix_table.pdf

Nice looking LT, and the first year for the power valve and the T seat. The FMF pipe is weak sauce for the power valve engines!

Make sure the clamp is on the bell of the carb, if the pods are sitting on the carb bell at a angle, and then you tighten the clamps, they never really get that tight. I have to slightly push my angled pods down the get then square on the carb bell.

A shee is going to treat you like you treat it. If yours is a pile of junk on wheels, or if you are neglectful with your tuning, it's going to let you down. Aside from the tuning the carbs, it's less hassle to maintain a 2 stroke. There are no cams to deal with, or cam chains. The rappy makes a good dune tractor after the 3 mod, I had to spend 3K on my 450R to keep up with a well tuned 3 mod 700. The 660 seams to be a bad joke for the dunes. My 4 mill stock bore is a rappy killer. You'd have to spend a stupid amount of money to keep up with it, and then your riding a hand grenade at best, and you pulled the pin when you first fired it up. On the other hand, my 4 mill will last a good long while with even a minimal amount of maintenance.

If you want good chrome on Sheer pipes, better do it your self! I have a pipe from Matt, and the chrome sucked! I ended up taking it to my chromer to have it re-done. The chromer he has do them doesn't do shit for prep, and it really shows. A friend of mine had a set of his OOF pipes, and the chrome is peeling off them. I have seen, and have a set of CPI's the chrome on them has all ways been nice, but the polishing seams to be hit or miss. The chrome looks good, but what it's on it rough.

As far as the race thing goes, I think one of the bigger names is K&T out of Roy UT, but there are other builders out there to be sure. You are asking a lot from one set up.