broncbob

You know that you and your wife only need a kidney each right?

Try calling a chrome shop in your area and ask them how they get the old chrome off stuff when they re-chrome. If your just painting them, you can just scuff them with the 3M pad till they don't shine any more and paint. I would use a angle die grinder with a course 3M pad.

Nice numbers! Just remember that they just that numbers. The dyno makes for a great tool, but to many people live and die on the dyno sheets. Did you get to stuff the sniffer in the pipes, or were you tuning off of plug color? No you need to see if you can find out how they dyno you used is know to read high or low or about right on to get a good idea how your build stacks up to all the other numbers. My 450R was tuned on a dyno that gives numbers wayyy on the low side. I only get to say that I'm making 50HP, but it has stacked up well against builds that have "made" more HP.

This sucks for all involved. I guess he got his screwing of people in all at once huh? I have spent some serious money on on line buys, (my other hobby is firearms, mostly varmint type stuff, but some WWII stuff too) and that has all ways gone well for me. I have bought one thing off here and it went very well. It sucks when people can't follow through a deal.

It's a 450R, 05 model The "cap" is the capacitor in the electrical system.

Yes my Honda is a R model, yes it has a reg/rec. I don't believe the electrical is malfunctioning on it at all. It just wasn't meant to charge a very small 12 volt battery. You have to cut into the harness at the cap to pick up the hot wire, and then you pull from any chassis ground. http://cgi.ebay.com/AGM-12V-7-5AH-Battery-NEW-SLA1075-7-5-AH-12-V_W0QQitemZ200421735323QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2eaa10fb9b This is close to the battery I was running, it's just supposed to keep the lights from flickering at Idle, that's it.

The trouble with the small battery is the extremely low amps they are supposed to be charged at. Most motorcycle battery types I have worked with call for no more than two amps when charging. The battery I was using was supposed to charged at around a half a amp. My Honda is the R model, it's not supposed to charge a battery.

My Honda had a very small battery from a emergency exit light on it, it was supposed to help with flicker at idle. It was a pain to find a spot for, and with some testing it turns out that mine don't flicker at idle when fully warm. I used the bike to charge the battery. Trouble with that was there isn't any amp regulation, so it cooks the battery on long rides, even when running the lights. To run the lights just off the battery, the trouble there is that thing going dead on one of our night rides. My crew will dune all night on a good night, that's a lot of draw on the battery. The next problem is how do I charge it for the next night of riding? You can't just hook it to the truck battery and fire up the truck, the amp out put on the truck will fry it in no time flat.

If you want a lager filter, just go to any K&N dealer and take a spin through the catalog till you find what you like. They are listed with the dims in the catalog, so you just have to find the right size to fit you carb, and the rest to fit you taste. Every one I know runs K&N filters, and the only problems that I have ever seen has been filter loss, as in the dam thing fell off. All of the testing that I have read has been that the K&N stops just as much dirt as a foam filter. The problem with the foam is dirt sticks to the oil, and makes it's way through the filter faster than with a K&N. I ride mostly sand, and it clogs a foam up in no time flat. You can help this a bit with a outerwear, but the sand just cakes onto the outerwear and makes it a pain to clean, and shortens the life of the outerwear quite a bit. It also kills flow, fast!

I believe the port timing is expressed in degrees, and in what degree they open or close on crank shaft location. You have to think of port timing as the cam on a two stroke engine. You can change the specs on the "cam" or port timing to get different things out of your engine. The ports are also like the valves on a four stroke as well, you can change them to affect how well air moves through the engine. You now know every thing I know about porting. There is lots of information and theory about the subject, just do some digging.

From what info I can find on this, the pistons used on the long rod set up change the port timing a bit, and the spacer plate only makes it worse. No I have talked to has told me it's a good idea to run the spacer.

I tried that with my Honda, and found it to be a huge pain in the ass.

I was planing to find one off of a 450R, I have hids on my 450R, so I know it works.

Has any one tried the stator from lazerstar? Good, bad? I want to run a set of hids in the stock location. Yes I know that I'll have to do a DC conversion.

I hate to say it, but you should have skipped the bling till it was 100% mechanical wise. It kinda sounds like you bough some one's problem child, and have been going through and fixing the problems. I did the same thing with my 450R, and trust me, it's a metric ass load more expensive to fix a 4 stroke. I have north of 8 grand into my Honda, and I haven't touched the suspension or done any bling on it yet. That includes the money for the quad, and tons of engine parts to make 50-55 HP depending on who's dyno you want to strap it to. To give you a idea on what it takes to built a Banshee, I bought a 96 for $1500, and I'm looking at dumping around $3500 in parts and such and I bet I'll be pulling down right around 70 HP So for slightly more than half of what I'm into the Honda, I'll have a much faster quad, and when it comes time to do the top end, it'll be far cheaper. You normally don't bore a 450 cylinder, you toss it and buy a new one. Then you need the valves done, new springs, any worn bearings need to be replaced, the rocker arms go bad, the valves need to be replaced, guides need to be replaced, it just goes on and on. The FCR carbs on them have about a million different needles, and they all change things just so. To tune one to be at it's best, you really need to strap it on the dyno and stuff the sniffer in the pipe. If you want to make big power with a 4 stroke, you had best have deeeeeep pockets, and be ready to keep spending, they don't last long at that power level.

I bet he didn't do it any favors, but yeah it ought to live just fine. If you do a burn out to extreme over heat and just shut it down, some nasty damage can happen.

There is your problem right there, K&N doesn't put enough oil on them! Over oiling shouldn't be a problem! If you let these sit with the open end up for a few hours, to a day, the extra will run off, then you just wipe it off. As you get used to oiling the filters, you get a better Idea of how much to use. But I all ways have to do some clean up on mine. Filter maintenance is not a last minuet thing with these filters, it's a planed affair. I normally do it right after I get home from a trip. Mine never run longer than one trip with out being cleaned, some times that's just a few hours, some times it's a week worth of riding.

I run K&N's in the dunes, and I NEVER see any dirt by pass. I also clean and oil mine after every weekend and I oil Heavy. The best way I have found to oil my filters is to spray the oil on, then leave standing for a few hours to let the excess oil drain to one side and then clean up the extra. I also run outerwears, that keeps stuff from sticking to the filters, and makes cleaning them faster. I recommend that you clean and inspect them when dry. You may have a hole in them that isn't obvious. You may want to remove your air box and tape over one side and shine a flash light around it and look for any leaks. If you want to have a good read on the different types of filters, check out the site bobistheoilguy.com. He has a good comparison on the different type of filters.

The thought right now is a dune/hill shooter port from Herr, Noss cool head with recommended domes for pump gas at 5000' feet by Herr, 4 mill crank, pistons for the 4 mill, Chariot reed cages, Chariot intake, 32 MM Mikuni TM's with pods, and T5 pipes, maybe Sheer small bore in frame.

Would I see any gain from having the cases ported on a 4 mill stock bore?

My bad, I was thinking 390 was about as high as it goes for some reason. Maybe because I have never seen jetting specs past that.

I see you recommend 28's, but looking at your jetting, it looks that your on the upper end of what the 28's can handle. Am I reading that wrong?

I'm looking to build a 4 mill dune/hill shooter quad. I'm thinking of having Herr do the porting and supply the parts for the 4 mill. I'll be using a Chariot timing plate, Chariot reed cages and intake, Noss cool head, Mikuni TM 32's and T5's

I did a search for your threads, and not much came up.

I'm wondering if the packing is drenched in oil. Are you sure you didn't double dose your fuel with oil maybe?