broncbob

Here is my disclaimer, if you ride in areas that have Db limits, the woods, or any other place that you might piss someone off with your pipes, leave them alone. You can pull the packing out of the silencers, and it will make them louder. It may or may not hurt your performance, but depending on the pipes you run, odds are you won't notice any thing other than the sweet, sweet sound of a un-silenced 2 Stroke exhaust.

Has anyone tried E85 in a shee? I know some drag racers run it with very good results, and one of the sand cars I ride with is running it. My big questions are, do you have to purge with it, what kind of performance gains can it give me, how big of a pain is it to set up and run?

You may have seized the engine. Try putting it in 6th gear and rocking it back and forth to see if the engine will turn over.Taking the spark plugs out will help. If the engine turns over, then you have a problem with the kick starter, if not something is wrong with the rotating assembly, and you'll have to dig in farther to find out what is wrong.

Any Idea what the output on either of these stators are at idle?

I'd check what is used for port work, JB would work, but there is better stuff out there. You had better make sure that you follow the instructions to the letter.

Sounds like it could be a fun thing to do once or twice a year. I'm not thinking of do a lot of it, work keeps me out of town to much.

I'm building a dune/hill rig, and was wondering if i could run it at the strip as well? I have a good friend that drags, and would like to get out to the track if i can.

Every one that I know that runs a tusk clutch has had nothing but good luck with them. This includes a 421 built by K&T. That one needed a but load of holes drilled into the basket, but holds just fine with out a lock up.

I'm guessing lean, but did you check to see if the slides were sticking?? If she didn't lean out, and the slides were sticking, my guess is the cable has a lot of oil and crap in it, and when it cooled of, the oil got thick and hung up the slides.

You need to have all the mounts on there.

I have a friend that rides a 421 cub on sand, and with a +8 arm he can still pull the front end up dragging up Sand Mountain UT. He has to try to get it up, but it would come up just about with out fail with a +6 arm. This is on sand, so your mileage may vary.

I run the Primary Drive Professional O ring chain. The one with the windows. I do nothing but dune, I clean the factory lube off, wax it once, run it all year, then toss it come winter. They last long enough for me, and they are normally in great shape when the hit the shit can. The way I figure it, chains are cheap, cases are expensive. I'd rather blow 50 or so bones a year rather than replaces case due to a broken chain.

The 421 I have played on ran strong, and I'm guessing over 80HP by the way it packed my ass up sand mountain. It was drag ported by K&T, runs on pump gas, CPI small bore inframe pipes, K&T intake, +6 on the timing, 35MM TM carbs. He has since put OOF pipes on it, and claims it pulls even harder. How are you going to judge the HP? If we are talking about dyno numbers, the numbers on the sheet are just a guess, not "real" numbers. The dyno is nothing more than a tune/comparison tool. They all read different, and there are ways to make your numbers look better than they are, or worse than they are.

I'm looking for a idea of what 450 quad shocks work on the Banshee? I have read about the YZF shock conversion, but I was wondering if any one has tried other shocks.

Good to hear he's doing well!

Larger carbs will allow more air to enter the engine and any given time, the hope is that that air will bring in more of the bang water in with it. You will lose low end throttle response with a carb that is to large for a given application. The problem being that the velocity of the air that moves through the carb will be too low to cause enough of a low pressure condition to get the fuel into the air that you need for a instant hit of power, things have to catch up. But if you go too small on the carb, you will choke you engine and power out on the top end, basically you will be using every thing that carb can give you in the higher RPM range. The trick to all of this is to find a crab that works for you the way you need it to. Do you need a nice low end hit, do you need to have every bit of air and fuel you can to keep it screaming way up top, or do you need something in between? If you keep these things in mind, you won't have the stock carbs on a 421 that you want to go drag race with, and you won't have 39's on a trail bike. There are just better things for each application. For me, and the 4 mill stock bore I have planed, it's going to be 34's. This is going to be a dune/hill shot type of set up, and I ride fast dunes. I'm not putting around, I'm not trying to run tight trails, I want this quad to shine from mid range on up, with enough grunt on the low end to get to the pipe.

Lance as SLC makes some nice stuff. I have a +4 ladder on my TRX450R from him. It's light, and strong. My ridding buddy has a +8 arched ladder that is 2LBS lighter than that Egay swinger you had. Your the second guy I have seen that has broke a Egay swinger, The other one that I have seen that failed, the cross brace that holds the shock linkage rotated right out. I think they guy skimps on his materials.

Go 6 or hate your self and buy twice. Dune'n a 6 isn't bad. They get around just fine in the dunes, even the tighter stuff.

If you have never done the valves, now's a good time to check them! Hard starting is one of the first clues. Your lean on the fuel screw for sure it sounds like. What is your jetting at now, and is the air box lid on or off? What is your elevation? Have you ever had it on a dyno to be tuned? The FCR carbs can be a huge pain in the ass. Every letter on the needle is in reference to a different section on the needle, and they all go from A to Z it seams like! Does it have a low end bog? The starter clutch is know to take a dump if you have cranked on it for long periods of time. I'm not sure if your carb is set up for a hot start, but if it is, get the cable, plunger, and thumb lever. It really helps starting them when warm.

I live in a good hood, just better safe than sorry. If my shop got cleaned out it would be VERY expensive to replace. I tend to keep a rig between the shop door and the road when I have it open as well. I ride in the two acres behind the shop, so people know that I have some stuff.

Keep it all very clean! I build on my kitchen table on clean cardboard. Three Bond, when used as it should be is your friend. Keep every thing clean! Make sure you wash your new cylinders out with lots of hot soapy water and a soft brush, and then dry them in the oven set on low. Don't forget to put a light coat of oil on them after they are dry. Keep every thing clean! Careful with the piston rings, don't scratch the piston installing them, and don't break them. Check that they are on right, That they have the ring to grove clearance that they need, and that they have the proper ring gap. Keep every thing clean! Follow the steps in the manual. Keep every thin clean! Double check your work, don't rush the work. Try and have every thing you need with in reach as you build, tools parts and stuff. Keep every thing clean!

I would guess you can get the specs from the manufacture. You can not check the piston to cylinder clearance with feelers. You need a bore gauge to measure the cylinder and a dial mic for the piston, then you do the math to get your clearance. Pistons are like tadder chips, every one has a kind they like, and a kind they hate, and a million reasons why they do. If your using a builder, go with what they recommend.

I rock the Protaper CR high bends, but I also run the thumb throttle and front master/perch set up off of the 04/05 model TRX450R, the stock stuff won't fit.

The best thing to do is make the doors the bike will fit out of as secure as you can. On my shop I have two overhead doors that my quads will go out of and that's it. The windows are two small, as well as the two steel man doors. I have the door tracks on the over heads drilled and they have a pair of master locks in them. I don't keep bolt cutters in the shop, and good luck finding the saws all blades. That's about all I can do, be sides put bars on the windows. Epoxy anchors require a very clean hole, The hole all so has to be of a certain depth and they have to be installed the right way, or they will fail. The instructions that Hilti includes must be followed to the letter. The biggest thing is slowing them down, most thieves are smash and grab. They don't want to get bogged down having to cut shit and make a bunch of noise in the midst of the heist.

If I had a way to get this thing home, It would be mine! I don't think I can check a CR250R on the air plane.