bigborebanshee

You would have to buy a radial master cylinder for a road bike if you want a separate rezzy.maybe off a zx6?

I agree,bought from him twice and got burned both times.First time shame on you,second time shame on me. The only trusted volume seller on Ebay that frequents the BHQ is Nyuk.I have dealt with him a few times and if something wasn't right,he always made it right and did it fast.

If you ask any business owner,time=money...so why the phuck are they wasting customers time with the wrong parts?..because once they get paid,they don't give a phuck,just look what happened to Loco,its no different. What gives this company or any company the right to waste our (customers) phucking time?

I have to put in my 2 cents,first because INLAND ATV IS IN THE WRONG and so is Jasonsbanshee. First off they advertised a 4mm plate,he even called to verify it and they said it was 4mm. Now when he gets it and calls them about it,they convince him he can use 2? ..WTF is wrong with you people.Its the old bait and switch! Not only did they sell you the wrong plate,but they convinced you to accept the fact that you had to use 2 plates. As for Jasonsbanshee,i too worked as a quality assurance manager,so i am familiar with what goes on.I cannot tell you how many times we shipped stuff that was out of spec because we did not have enough to fill orders.This is standard practice in the manufacturing industry,but it should not be TOLERATED..period! The quality motto is "let it fly" and if it comes back at us,we will deal with it then.I never personally made the choice,i just followed the bosses orders.I have worked as a quality manager for many different companies and the mentality was the same everywhere. Don't reward shitty businesses ,it corrupts the free market

My 421 MX setup,

You probably put one of the machined washers in the wrong spot or left one out.The stack from the case bearing should be machined washer/clutch bearing race/machined washer/clutch hub/locking washer/clutch nut.

If your talking about the oko carbs,they are comparable to the keihn pwk From what I have gathered from the guy at carb parts warehouse,the oko housings and other components are made by keihn for the OKO motor company. Kind of like how wiseco made Vitos forged pistons. You could technically call them "private label keihns

Yes,the T-5s like a 155.I have not done a plug chop yet ,but it pulls violently on the pipe I just thought there would be more of a difference between pipes and even porting,but it does not appear so unless major airflow changes are made.

maybe someone with some jetting experience can chime in. I recently changed from Gnarlys to T-5s on my 421(non cub).I run the 30mm oko with a pro flow K&N and a K&N powerlid. The Gnarlys were good on at 150-152 main 52-55 pilot stock oko needle middle clip.(depending on the season) When i changed over to T-5 i found the 152-155 main 50-52 pilot and oko needle on the middle clip. to be the best(depending on the season) I ran the exact same airbox configuration and carbs on a ported 350 i had with Pro circuit pipes.It ran best with 150-152 main and 50-52 pilot,oko needle in stock position. How can 3 different engine with 3 different style pipes be so close in jetting?..can it be because I ran the exact same airbox configurations? I ran a low-mid,mid and mid top pipe and the only had to move 1 jet size?

From what i have seen i would never do business with them. Any company that does not have enough sense to do what it takes to put out a fire rather than get burned ,does not deserve to be in business.No offense to Loco. Right or wrong it isn't really worth soiling your business over,especially with someone who is that active in the racing scene. Don't reward failure,it corrupts the free market.

I run these pistons in a vitos big bore cylinder.The piston is forged and beefy!.I think the intake windows could be a little bigger,but a little hand porting will fix that. Only drawback is using the blaster domes,especially when you had previously had a coolhead with every imaginable 13 degree angle banshee dome.

I just bought a set of SRP reed cages which appear to be the same as Chariots. It appears the stock intake stuffer will not allow these boots to work. Can these be modded to fit?..I had the VF2 on a prior banshee and remember how Moto Tassinari suggested to cut them off using the washers and stock intakes as a cutting template Will this work on these reed cages or do i have to buy new intake boots?

I have a set of T-5 and the fmf fatty silencers would not line up...BUT the fmf fatty head pipe worked with a toomey silencer.I think its because the toomeys don't have the mid pipe mounts and the rear mount can swivel if need be. The fmf silencers have a fixed mount on the silencer body and midpipe bracket that I could not line up with T-5's

I have a set of pipes and silencers on Ebay ,Flat rate ship is $25 but i will partially refund ship if its less than that amount.They are in great shape. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-banshee-FMF-gnarly-pipes-Banshee-/230467634286?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35a8f1046e

The paper gasket and conical washer can be omitted on the aftermarket basket,they serve no purpose.The purpose of the conical washer is to take up the slop when the rivets start to stretch and the basket gets sloppy.With bolts,the backing plate is securely bolted to the basket and no clearance should not develop between the basket and backing plate unless the screws come loose. But kudos on modifying the factory backing plate,I warped a few of the aftermarket backing plates from doing standing start full throttle holeshots before I modded a stock backing plate to fit my billet basket.The factory backing plates are bullet proof.

how much Shipped to 44035?

Looking for a set of turbine core spark arrestor silencers that fit fatty or gnarly pipes.No major dents or dings

After my first banshee,the order of importance went like this...... tires handlebars shocks ..and then pipes,reeds ,coolhead etc. I did not even take my 2nd or 3rd banshees out on trail without tires and suspension work after i realized how exhausting a stock suspension shee can be. But I like the Works shocks,they are cheap and simple when it comes to rebuilding them,the only bad shocks are the at-steelers,because the lack of adjustment,you literally have to break the shock down and change out the springs and check balls to change the valving.Also oil weight makes a huge difference in the dampening.Always run a thick oil than you would think you need. Spend the money on rebound and comp adjustable would be my advice

If you have a small cutting torch tip or a small rosebud and a friend,it takes about 30 seconds.I just changed out the end bearings to maxloads.I just wedge 2 flat screwdrivers between the bearing and crank,keeping a little pressure like your prying it off,then have someone heat just the inner bearing race in a circular motion,when the inner bearing race gets hot enough it will start to slide out as you apply pressure.make sure to keep the torch tip moving constantly and focus the flame on the inner race and nothing else.It pretty much ruins the bearing,but if it wasn't bad to begin with,there would be no reason to change it.

No,dual feed makes no difference if the bottle neck is in the float needle or the floats are set too low. SD 1026,easy way to check those float levels is to shut off the gas and let the bike idle until it starts to sputter.if one side goes lean wayy before the other,you will know if its out of adjustment.

I run a Ricky Stator in standard watt and have never had a problem other than one of the winding grounds broke off of the stator housing,which caused a miss in the high RPMs when vibrations were high.Could not even tell by looking at it,but when i touched the ground wire,it would separate from the anchor,so i lobbed some solder on it and it has not given me any problem since.I probably would not buy another,but i have got my moneys worth out of this one.

I think they are a great carb for the money...but I too did have similar issues with the bowls running dry.After drilling out the fuel inlets and setting them at the correct float level.I have not had any problems with these carbs since and i run them on a 421. The stock float level setting is wayy low on these carbs...You can set them much higher than a PWK.I think I ended up at 19 or 20 mm when all was said and done.

Never been there,...for anyone who has and has ridden a lot of trails,would it be worth the 2 1/2 hour drive.?.The reason Im asking is i live in Ohio and can get to Wayne National forest or the Alleghaney forest in Pa in just under 3 hours. Would it be worth the trip or should i just stick with where i have been going?

If i were going to go that route,i would just go with a pro trax type front end..Although the Yfz conversion has become popular,i feel the handling and suspension sucks. When atvs are designed the geometry of all the components are taken into consideration,you can't just throw anything on there and assume that because it fits..it will work. I did not jump on the yfz conversion bandwagon,but a few of my friends did and now they regret not investing in some a arms and shocks that would have better fit there application

I have the same 68mm bigbore cylinders and a 4mill long rod crank..except i have it setup for 30mm keihns and have a full airbox. Im right a t 158 on the mains and 55 on the pilots. Im sure with just pods it would be around 165-168. A Cpi or shearer pipe and big carbs really make a huge difference with these cylinders,but they lose a lot of the bottom in the process.The gains on the top a are great if all you do is drag or dune play,but the fatty pipe is great if you want to do it all with this particular setup.