bigborebanshee

Personally I will not deal with anyone who is not a site sponsor or has not been active on these forums for a number of years. Not that its the HQ's responsibility,because most forums say buyer beware when it comes to classified,but sellers should have to do more than register before posting anything on the classified. Maybe a verification system that can verify age/address using credit card info? Or maybe a forum sponsored purchasing agreement,similar to Ebay? there are a number of ways to implement some buyer assurance,it just depends on how much the HQ wants to invest in it.

The dual rate kits that works makes for the Yfz shocks are a huge improvement over stock.,but they are price IMO for a few springs and some isolators.

Only thing left in Japan is machining operations,much like the USA,they outsource the majority of their manufacturing.But machining capability and consistency is still sketchy in China.When they prove they can hold tolerances like Japan,USA and Germany..they too will handle the majority of the worlds machining. Just like The American Auto manufacturers,they might assemble the cars here,but most components are manufactured elsewhere.

Where do you thing the factory radiators are made..i will give you a hint,its not Japan, There is hardly anything manufactured in Japan anymore,they have become like us,much more corporate based with most manufacturing farmed out to China and Taiwan. Im betting that radiator was purchased from the same factory that produces the Oem's..

the older frames have the Vin stamped and they hold up well under sand blast and powder coat,but you might have to go back over the numbers with something to dig out the grooves the newer frames that are etched are different.I put a piece of metal tape,(ductwork) so it just covers the numbers,the metal tape holds up well to sandblast and powdercoat.

I still can't believe there are people still chasing this pipe! I had PC's on an old bike and got a Dynoport with the barker silencer in a parts lot I bought.Its was on my banshee for one day and Ebay the next.

Hey,Im in Elyria,just a stones throw from ya! I ran a 27.5-30 pilot depending on the airbox configuration and 280-300 main needle in the stock position and air screws about 1.75 turns out.Good Luck!

Blaster pistons have a different pin height,they are best used on stroked or long rod engines

I ride mainly trails..I set the camber so the tires tilt inward about 1 degree and the caster is set at bout 5 degree positive.toe is set at 1/4' in Al the measurements were set after checking tires and level ground.I did not have anyone sitting on it.I know camber and toe is affected by ride height,but i thought caster would not change much as long as front and rear ride height remained consistent.

It looks as if that paddle bar design works the best for dirt drags.has anyone tried shaving a little weight off of one of these?.The bars measure .500

What do most of you set your caster at? i know companies like LSR give instructions for setting caster,but they say 4-5 degrees is the optimal setting trails/mx riding. the factory banshee caster on stock a arms is preset at 9 degrees? Has anyone set there caster up this way?How does it handle? I have mine set at 4 degrees positive and it feels like it wanders at higher speeds.

All the Vitos big bore cylinders need is a little clean up on the transfer tunnels,after that,i would put them up against any ported cylinders that are not cubs.

Call works performance,they can tell what style shock you have by description.They seem to know their products very well. Honestly,if you have a little mechanical aptitude,you can rebuild them yourself. Works valving consist of a few check balls and specifically rated springs,some packings and seals.I rebuilt mine in about an hour. If you give them the specifics,they can send you the seals,check valves and springs.The only thing I sent them out for was to get recharged with nitrogen. The only downside to non adjustable works shocks(steelers)is once you revalve them,your stuck with that setting.I set the valving up for fast trails and when i try to MX with them,the dampening is not enough,even though the main springs were set up to my exact weight,tire size and a arm length. FYI,always tell them your racing MX,that way they will send out the right check valve springs that will allow you to do it all.

If your looking for a bolt on kit,save yourself a few bucks and get the vitos big bore cylinder kit.I run the 4 mill cylinders,the are 10 port cylinders. http://vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11399&cat=202&page=1 they also have a stock stroke setup http://vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11366&cat=202&page=1 If you already have a coolhead,then all you will need is domes. I run these cylinders with 30mm carbs and fmf pipes and this thing is scary for a trail bike.

FMF fatty or PC pipes can do it all trails,mx,drags.Both pipes respond well to porting.

Fast Flexx bars or nothing. They are a bit pricey,but after you spend a few hours with them,you know your money was well spent.They are great for absorbing the hard jarring hits the suspension can't absorb. I like them enough that I've kept the same set from 3 different quads i owned.

I second the hater,worst customer service i have ever dealt with.The stock heims are shit.They do sell a nice set of kevlar lined heims that i bought for $100 for a set of 4 plus hardware. But it took 4 weeks to get them.I don't think he stocks too many parts,as everytime i tried to order stuff,it took WEEKS!

The headpipe looks like a fatty,but the chamber looks like a cross between a fatty and the old school gold top end pipe.Definitely not a High Rev

I think the original poster was running his banshee on the street,which would explain why he had trouble keeping the engine temperature at optimal operating level. For trail bikes or duners,its not necessary.

I'd still ban that douche bag....Or at least make this a sticky for people who might take a chance on this guy in the future.

If you want it to hold up,you have to strip the cases..if your going to strip the cases,you might as well just polish them.Its a ton of work and it will take some time and patience,but you will never regret it after its done. You might say..Im never doing that again,but when you look at the engine,you will be glad you did it.

Yes but we are douche bags that don't have plastics that look like they were spray painted over mud. Do that to your super duper fast streetbike and see how long it takes for your buddies at the zx forums to rip you a new one. No offense but,if you did that to a crotchrocket,you would be exiled and ridiculed..what makes you think you can do it to a quad and get away with it?

I have seen frames rhino lined,but never plastics? That looks about as queer as a 3 dollar bill. Frankenstein was hideous,those plastics are like a train wreck,you just can't stop looking at it.

it was a nice quad,looked just like yours loco flexx bars Dr D pipe Pro peg nerfs throttle spring mod Kenda Knarly all around

Unmodified....yes ,they are GREAT engines,i would go as far as saying they are bulletproof...but once you start modding them to keep up with banshees,they are ticking time bombs. The problem with that engine and the other new 450's is they are wound up fairly tight out of the factory,which is great if your looking for something that is fast and can hold its own out of the box,but bad if your looking to significantly build on its power plant...and Im not talking about just putting a pipe on it.