bigborebanshee

Yea +2 wide is enough.But if you go +3 you can always go to a 4+1 offset rim,which will bring you back to about the width of +2 a-arm setup

Good mod for a stock bolt on motor with some portwork. After a 4 mill or big bore,I didn't see any difference.Great mod for Mx since you need that explosive power and your already running a small lightweight tire setup.

Looks like they did a good job copying as close as they could.Like it matters since they are selling them from China.You know how the old chinese saing goes.."no trademark raws....soo no probram" Im sure the construction is solid,but Im sure they Effed up the handlebar bend.

What about an electric fuel pump?...Depending on the design and weight of oil,they may produce enough pressure.The only way you would know is test it.

Try not to put too many dents in them..those old rockets are hard to come by in great condition,not to mention they would be worth maybe 250-300 after you take a hammer to them.

Im sure when you can't figure out how to install them,They will be for sale in the classified section soon.

If you really want these pipes..Im sure Elkaracing d-bag will probably have them up for sale in a couple weeks..maybe with a couple extra dents and some butter stains on them.LOL

You don't need ANY special tools for works steelers,they are the easiest shocks to rebuild.call their tech line and inquire about their kits.I paid 80 bucks for seals and a new revalve kit.the valve is made up of check balls and specially weighted springs.Easy to do if you have some mechanical aptitude.The only thing i sent them out for was recharging.Just follow the steps when adding the oil,so they don't have to open up the shocks again. I paid 120 for new seals ,valves ,upper/lower mounting bushings and spacers for setting the dual rates.

Look at the diameter of the threads on the ball joints..look awfully smaller than the standard 3/4' that most use.The shank of that ball joint looks good for a tierod and thats about it.

He is a straight up junk dealer.Bought from him twice..got burned both times.NEVER AGAIN!

Better read the fine print..thats what i thought too,instead they only agreed to pay up to a certain amount,even with receipts.If you have never had anything stolen that you tried to claim with insurance..be prepared for a long battle.

Funny how these radiators got cheap all of the sudden...i would not doubt if Pro design and PWR have been outsourcing their radiators for years and still getting a premium! Im sure they will bring their prices down once they see sales slide.

V-force 2 were the best IMO.(I prefer steel screws) Rad valves appear to be more of a torque oriented configuration whereas V-force are designed for max flow. I replace reeds ever season on engines that are ridden regularly.New reeds make the throttle crispy

For me it depends on the tire. I run 5-6 on 4ply and 3-4 on 6ply tires.

So true..20million dollar executive bonus for a company that lost 38 billion.WTF? If that was the case with Toyota,the CEO would not have taken a bonus..he would have taken his life for being such a disgrace of a company president

How ever you decide to secure it,make sure it takes them an ample amount of time to steal it and require them to make a lot of noise.

Probably a 38mm PJ if its original. The max bore on a stock cylinder is 270cc I believe

I can already see where this is going...LOL

If Im not mistken they are made by WP suspension.The are similar to Elka's,the earlier ones looked like the factory kayabas on the 450's

How do you gauge power lost through the drivetrain? Effects of billet axle,oring vs non oring,clutch slippage? We only use an crank dyno when changing out parts,Once its dialed in,its dialed in.After that we use a chassis dyno, the drivetrain is very inconsistent,but its a better gauge of whats getting to the ground and how to harness it.

No but a rear wheel dyno is a great tuning tool if you have already run a crank dyno.its good to know how much your losing through the drivetrain.

Depends how you pipe it,i run a fatty on my vitos 421 and its a beast in the woods IMO. It also depends on your gearing,when I ran T-5 in the woods I geared it 13/41 vs a 15/41 I ran with gnarlys pipes

True dat!..but if you opted for the Cr 500r instead,you would have a reliable fastest production quad. If you have never had the pleasure to ride one of the big bores in a quad frame,its unexplainable.Its like a banshee..but much scarier. If you like to build em stick with the shee,its the most worthy aftermarket engine

I run the Vitos bigbore cylinders set up for a 4 mill...For MX and trail riding,they are by far the best value out there.All i did was clean up the transfer ports a little and they scream for off the shelf cylinders.The port timing works great with fattys or PC pipes. I got a set of Cylinders from vitos with forged pistons and gaskets for 600 bucks! If you don't already have a cool head,then it will set you back another 200..remember the big bore pistons need 9 degree domes. They are a great all around setup,much better suited for trails or MX style riding..If i were building a drag bike or duner,i would have just had my stockers ported,but if you port it for drag or dune,its pretty much worthless in the woods or on a track.I can still hit the dunes and line up for the occasional drag race.