bigborebanshee

I have a set of 20 cc domes that have been relief cut for a 4 mill stroker crank...i would have just post them up,but i figured with ebay,at least you know who your dealing with.The price is $50 shipped. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230459215619

Could you imagine the trying to ride that think at the dunes.Probably needs the 4mill just to lug the extra 5 gallon gas can on his 6 pack rack..LOL

Since they killed the banshee,it has gotten hard to find graphics kits through popular distributors like RMATV ,Dennis Kirk or even Magic racing.No one seems to be stocking these anymore,they are not listed in catalogs or online.

Thanks,i bought a PE basket and the directions did not mention anything about it.I think the PE is the same as the Magnum.

When changing over the stock clutch basket to a billet one,do you have to install the paper/vinyl washer?.The one that came out of the stock basket was not in the best shape and a bit brittle.Yamaha doesn't list a replacement.does anyone run it?It appears its function is more for friction between the basket and ring gear,but being in an oil bath,it should not matter?

Paypal is technically a merchant account,The account fees may be higher than a regular CC processing account,but its there so the average joe can accept CC payments. If I had to tell my customers that I had to charge them more because they wanted to pay by CC,they would accuse me of ripping them off and move on to the next store. Or i could figure out what the margin i need to make on the product and add in the additional cost that would cover any merchant fees.I still pass the merchant fee on to the customer,i just do it in a way that doesn't make me look like Im punishing them for their method of payment.. Debit and gift cards have become the rage.The fees are terrible on these ,rather than deny customers the right to use them,I adjusted the price of my products to compensate the loss i was taking from them compared to regular CC.The increase was minimal and no one questioned it because it was across the board. Everyone has their own approach,but remember,out of sight,out of mind

I never push paypal fees on to the buyer.As a business owner that accepts CC,i am subject to paying merchant fee.Its part of running a business.The fees should be included in the price of the merchandise,that way the buyer has no ill feelings of getting ripped off.I won't even deal with ebayers who require me to pay transaction fees.Those kind of sellers are douchebags IMO. I walked straight out of a yamaha dealership last year because they wanted me to pay the merchant fee on a 9,000 purchase and I did not even attempt to haggle the price.In a good economy I can see people trying to squeeze every penny out of a sale,but as hard as the dealership was hurting,i can't believe they let me walk out..So I took my business to a mom and pop dealership,bought the same bike and a quad 2 weeks later,no merchant fee. The original dealership that tried to stick it to me was a huge Honda store,they went under in january..You can be a little greedy,but not too phukin greedy

I think both have different techniques that require some mastery,but trails definitely require more skill.Trails are not the same everywhere.The trails i refer to are those on the east coast,in states like PA,GA,WV,VA,NY,NC and SC and mountain regions of CO,WA,OR,UT. Everywhere else is field riding.

The Vitos cylinders are the best for the buck IMO. If you take the time to look at the transfer tunnels ..you would realize where the power is hidden.After some work on the transfer tunnels it pulled just over 80 hp with cpi and 35 pwks... cleaning the transfer tunnels up is a helluva lot easier and cheaper than a full port. 2 brand new cylinders with pistons,gaskets and studs..VS buying a piston kit for 200 bucks,then paying for a port job 300 and shipping 20-30.Your already over 500. I along with some of my friends run these cylinder and love them.Are they the best for drag..obviously not compared to a monoblock,but are they worth 599.00.Definitely http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-BIG-BORE-CYLINDERS_W0QQitemZ110477372754QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item19b8f6ed52

It really depends on your pipe.A lightened flywheel is much appreciated and very forgiving on a fatty or ptr piped banshee.When I moved to a PC and finally a T5,it was a bitch starting out on a steep incline without slipping the clutch to hell.

Not trying to hijack the thread,but these things are bullet proof

Those are the new style hardware kits and if your looking for a good set of heims for cheap.take a look at these. I think he sells a complete kit of 4 for like $99 bucks and they are the best Heims I have ever used.The kevlar lining really holds up well http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/images/A-XMRHB.jpg

I had full flights and ASR arms and neither required reaming the spindles..You might have a REALLY old set. I had a problem originally with not having enough thread exposed,I just ran a porting cone through the spindle once to clean up any burrs or paint and everything lined up right..

Go to the lonestar racing website and download the installation.Those full flights have too many adjustment points.you just can't screw them in and expect it to be right.If you do it like that your caster will be all effed up and it will steer funny.It might look good with a tape measure,but you will probably notice that the steering response is off.At slow speed its no big deal,but on higher speeds,its dangerous. That's why i prefer a-arms with fixed points on the lower control arms,that way your not that far off when you first set them up.

Yea and with the attitude you employ..it looks like you will continue to do dumb things.....

Good Idea Ray.Once they have the frame,they can do whatever they want to it.Nothing illegal about that.

Your just running the wrong pipe.You should be running a Fatty,I ran PC with 190psi and I could never get the tires to break out of the gate,the PC does not make enough on the bottom to strike the tires like the fatty does.You won't have the over rev that you get with the PC..but with all that compression you don't need that rpm anyways. Your other option is to go to a less aggressive tire,maybe one with wider lug spacing.It may help the tire break traction a little easier.

Yea,the flat black and orange combo looks BAF The plastic almost looks like it was molded like that.

Believe it or not it makes a huge difference.I had a set of razor 2's that i did that to and it was night and day difference. Those razors are to fargin hard IMO,Siping the tread on them gives them a little more flex...still a crappy tire tho.

Yea..but your in Vancouver? You probably have never experience what most of us on the east coast experience during the summer months...80-90 degree temps which isn't a factor until you add in the 80% humidity.Some of us need all the cooling we can get.

FTW = F*** the World?

I use to do the foam thing,but between tuning runs,I noticed the foam was warm,which means it was insulating the radiator a bit,so i tried to improve on the idea a bit.i will take some pics tonight and post them up 2 morrow morning.it was really easy to do and all i used was an old stock radiator grille. But your right,air will always follow the path of least resistance

I have had mine for 6 years,still straight as an arrow....Been through 2 lock nuts though,they are a POS

I think he is talkin about the gap between the radiator and the cover.I took an old stock plastic grille and a pair of tin snips.fabricated some air deflectors and mounted them to the existing holes inside the radiator cover,so they are not visible unless you know they are there. As far as cooling goes,it was a night and day difference according to the temp gauge.It cooled down much faster than normally once you started pushing air through it..Its a small easy mod that will keep the incoming air from going around the sides of the radiator.