bigborebanshee

Thanks Kodie,i will def let you know if Im parting it.We had good transactions in the past I really hate to part it though,I spent 6 months building it over the winter/spring.Hopefully someone is looking for a nice built banshee.

I did a frame up resto over the winter,EVERYTHING is new... think i was just being too cheap on the chains.

Its always like that isn't it?....Oh yea..it has an Ohio title and is currently registered in my name.

I just found out i am being transferred and since Im not sure if i will be able to pursue my hobby abroad,I am going to lighten my travel load. I am located in Lorain Ohio Up for sale is my 2000 Yamaha banshee 421.It received a frame up restoration over the winter.I spared no expense in making this the ultimate trail quad.The frame was painted ford blue and everything else was powder coated black.the chassis received all new bearing and bushings including axle,a-arm and spindle.This is literally a brand new banshee.I set this engine up to run an premium pump gas.The list of modifications are as follows. 421 cc Yamaha banshee enigine Vitos 68mm ported cylinders with triple exhaust ports Hot rod 4mill stroker crankshaft with maxload bearings Wiseco 68mm blaster pistons Port matched engine cases Billet clutch basket with Toomey springs Brand new clutch cable Boss racing clutch saver throw out bearing Cascade modified shift star Pro Design cool head with 18cc 9 degree blaster domes (comes with 20's too) CPI racing exhaust pipes V-Force 3 reed cages Keihn 34.5mm carbs Pro-Flow K&N filter with K&N filter Lid Adjustable timing plate +4 degrees Billet water pump impeller TM design case saver Billet 3 pc Stator cover Polished clutch cover with inserts +2 A-Arms with kevlar injected heims Works Dual rate shocks with rezzy and ball bearing bushings. Yfz 450 dual piston front calipers Stainless brakelines front and rear Denton steering stabilzer Fast FLEXX handlebars with pro taper pillow top lite grips Tether kill switch Alba custom Graffix Graydon Pro line aluminum nerf bars Pro line hand guards Pro armor front and rear aluminum bumper Hiper racing carbon fiber wheels 22/7/10 kenda klaw 20/11/10 Maxxis Razr rear tires (3 rides) The quad was dynoed and carbs tuned after the initial break in.This engine made just shy of 80 hp and 43 ft lbs of torque.This engine will make alot more with pod filters,higher compression and Shearer inframe racing pipes.Since I used this atv for recreation , I opted for the reliability and pump gas over maximum hp/race fuel.If your looking for more hp,there is still some hiding there.I have ridden this banshee 3 times this year on trails and that is it.Its literally a completely brand new machine. The selling price is $3500 If this does not sell in 30 days,I will be parting it on craigs list and ebay..I have lots of pictures,I can send via email.It is available for viewing after 8pm mon-fri.after 6pm on weekends.PM me and I will get back to you ASAP

i don't have any pics,but you will have to chop your air box up a bit.You want to leave most of the factory mounting brackets in tact and cut away what is necessary to allow the intake to line up with the airbox hole..The factory airbox will still act like a support and work as a water/mud deflector. heres a diagram.You will need 3 worm clamps Make sure the ring is properly positioned and FLUSH with the carb bell.Clamp the carb boot at the bell first,then double check the ring and clamp the boot right around the ring itself.this will keep the venturi ring in the proper position.as long as you leave those 2 clamps alone,you don't have to worry about the ring moving

Good luck with that fuel customs intake kit,they definitely flow better,but you have to make sure the velocity ring is pinned to the carb in the correct position.You can use 2 clamps.one for the flange and one to hold the ring in place.If not,the ring can become dislodged or spin covering the air bleed holes. Do a search on them if you are not familiar with them.The last one I installed went from 53 hp to 58 on a built 450.

I bought the Tsubaki 520 Alpha XRG MX chain.it says its rated for 7900 and good on road bikes up to 100hp. The one I have is on its 3rd adjustment and its near the end of the adjustment. I can remember when its was mostly stock, any oring chain would last forever.Now its a new big $$ chain every year.

No,but when I hit rough sections or whoops its pinned.

My banshee is eating through chains.I fear it will snap,so i am swapping it out again.I originally had a non-o ring Tsubaki,then went to a DID oring. I trail ride this thing mostly,but i like to blitz whoops and hit some tables. Its a 421 pushing 80 hp,is there a chain i should try next? Even though i have a case saver,i would hate to throw a chain through there.

If I had to buy new,I would buy PWK next time.I paid nothing for new PJs as i got them in a parts lot,had them opened up to 34.5mm. The 35 PWK made over 2 hp more on my 421 than the PJs ,other than that i did not notice any difference in overall performance.

I think the biggest problems with the K&N filters comes from user error. You should run an outerwear on K&N whether your running sand or dirt...and K&N filters work better when they are a little dirty.People that over clean there filters do not realize that trapped particulates actually become part of the filter which aides in filtration. I use to clean my K&N after every major ride,now i just clean the outerwear and maybe clean the filter 3 times the whole season.i burned through a lot of top ends before i realized why dirt kept getting into the intakes.

If you want an extra kick,just get the VP U4.4 or MXR01 its an oxygenated fuel that has some kick! Make sure to rejet ur mains.

They should be the same,considering the engine is "brand new' then I would look to carbs or electrical..especially the pick up coil gap.Check both pickup points as one could be gapped wider than the other causing a misfire in the left cylinder and flooding.

have ruled out any possible airleak? If there are no air leaks and the compression is fairly close between the 2 cylinders,you can rule out any engine problems If your running the keihn or OKO,just swap the carbs and try running it.If the plug results are the same,then swap the spark plug leads.If the results are still the same,then all that left is an inspection of your reed cage.If the reeds look good,then its time to move to the Stator and pick up coil.Check both flywheel pickup gaps,if those look ok,You probably have a problem with the Stator.

Yea cases.

Forgot to add make sure shifter is installed.the weight ,depending on the shifter will put some tension on the spring,more if the spring is worn.If its off just a hair,you will get an intermittent hang up

Personally if your running this quad in trails then i would leave it alone.If its a duner or dragger, you might want it a little fatter.

Namuras are cast Wiseco are forged,2 totally different pistons,but If they are installed properly,they will last. I had a banshee stolen from me that had a brand new namura top end in it.The police recovered it 2 years later in some ghetto.It had bald ass tires and looked nothing like the quad that was stolen.It looked like it was raced at every county fair over 2 summers. It still had that Namura top end in it,definitely worn out,but none the less,a good set of pistons considering what the rest of the machine looked like.

Same thing happened with mine,pilot was too big.had a 52 and went down to a 50.It ran that much better now Im dropping it to a 48 It really depends on your needle with PJ's.I went to a CEK from a CGL and needed to go down 2 sizes on the pilot.

I have used them in the past and had no complaints.As long as the proper clearances are set and the compression is not too high,they will last like any other cast piston.

Drop the main jet 1 size,don't change anything else.If it gets better drop it 1 more size.I run 34's on my 421 with an open airbox.My mains are at 150 and my plug chop off the dyno was perfect.

I did not have the right needle,i could only adjust it so far. You can see it on the dyno run,otherwise it would have made perfect linear power.Im running a CEK in 34Pj's.Anyone know what needle I should try next?

I know the needle is but the A/F is between 14-15 and drops to 13.5 at peak hp.Should I just leave it at the current mainjet?

This was the run chart from a run i made last week.according to the plug chop off the dyno.the smoke ring was thick,blackish gray and about 2-3mm. I did not have a smaller mainjet or i would have tried it.The needle is the wrong one as the lean condition shows in the midrange. How much more hp would there be to gain,it made peak hp at 9800

You can't use the penny trick because they are not completely copper.I recommend a piece of .080 solder wire.Its soft enough to conform to the backlash between the gears.Or sometimes i use a copper banjo bolt washer..