bigborebanshee

The main thing you have to understand with the PJ is the relationship between the pilot and idle.Mine would not idle with 9 clicks out but idled great at about 25 and #52 pilots.I was able to fine tune with the airscrews at that point. When I dropped the pilots to 50 trying to clear up a low to mid stumble,I had to back the idle/choke knob to 18 clicks out before I could get a clean idle by fine tuning the airscrews. Set your airscrews to 1.5 turns out..Set your idle/choke knobs to 8-9 clicks out.If the bike refuses to idle at all keep increasing the idle clicks 3-4 per side untill it runs on its own.Allow about 10 seconds between adjustments to allow the carb circuits to catch up. As a general rule if your engines best idle is less than 5 clicks out or over 40,you probably need to change the pilot jet.Its best if you leave the air screw set at 1.5 out as this will add a variable that will throw you off.save the aircrew adj untill you have established a decent idle within the parameters of the idle adj.

I think your gauge is off.My 421 vitos with 22 cc domes made about 145psi max and that was with.039 squish.Im running 18 cc domes now and it makes 160psi.It would be hard to get more than that considering the exhaust port heightis barely 26mm

With a T-5 or Dmc pipe it makes good broad power across the rpm with a violent hit when it gets on the pipe.Have Cpi on it now and the peakyness is gone. If your running these cylinders on stock bore banshee pipes other than CPI or Shearer,your handicapping yourself,get the right pipes and carbs.

Its not the carbs that are holding you back,its the cub that you are not running.Stock bigbore cylinders,even the re-cast Vitos are no match for a cub.

I too run the Vitos 421 and had the same problem .It got worse after i went on a trail ride on a dusty day.By the end of the day it would not rev past 3/4 throttle without sputter and coughing.Filter and outerwear were dirty.I dropped the main 1 size and cleaned the filter.It has been running great ever since.I run 34pjs and my mains are at 150.

I would not waste my time going to a Pwk from a PJ unless your stepping up to 39.I have been running PJs forever.I don't understand why people have such a hard time tuning these carbs.It just takes patience and it helps if your choke knob/idle adjusters are in good shape.Take them apart,clean them and inspect the detents to insure they are keeping the knob secure.They are still the "meat and potatoes" of a modded banshee.I had mine bored to 34.5 and would not switch unless i was planning to go bigger

Some crack heads drove through a window of an appliance store here and stole 2 plasma tv's off the wall last week,you know they were crack heads because the coax and hdmi inputs were ripped clean from the TV's rendering them useless.

I use to run nothing but Yamalube 2R.My 01' had about 120 hrs on it,roughly 3 seasons.Pistons were worn past service limit,cylinders looked good,no galling. I put wisecos in it for the rebuild and ran it 3 seasons with lots of mods(high comp,timing,porting) and klotz supertechniplate.Piston to cylinder clearance was maybe .001 over what was installed and I beat that motor to death.I re0ringed her and ran ist another 2 years. Yamalube is a great oil,but klotz is the best.

We ride trails all over Ohio,so you never know. There was a friend of a friend who had a quad stolen.His friends (who still had quads) were riding at a popular spot in Wellsville when they recognized the stolen quad .They all blocked the transport truck with their trucks.When the thief returned,he was confronted.Fearing for his life,he agreed to show them where he got it.They followed him and placed a call to police letting them know what was going on.They ended up turning up a garage full of stolen bikes.

No they sold locally to a guy with a 450

Hipers and rings are SOLD! Thanks

No drawbacks to degree key IMO.The degree key is only as reliable as the mechanic who installs it.The key itself does not keep the flywheel from turning,it only locates the flywheel.If you shear a key,one of 2 things happened. Either you failed to properly torque the flywheel or used never seize on the tapered shaft.Both installation errors.

I refuse to use reinforced rubber line.I prefer the clear vinyl fuel line.I did not even need clamps on my OKOs,just heated them a bit and jammed them on.The stock boot thing was rough,but fit nice and snug. You will like those carbs huge improvement over stock.What jets are you running?

I think this will be the poll of polls.THIS is what inquiring minds want to know.I encourage everyone to VOTE!

Well,went out for a solid days ride.Engine ran great on the low and pulled hard through the mid only to sputter on the top.At first i thought matbe the water in the cover messed the stator up too,but it was running great under 3/4 throttle.Through out the day the sputter got progressively worse and came on earlier,which made me realize it was a jetting issue.It was 92 degrees and dusty,the air filter was caked!Jetting was just fat for the temps and the dust was bad.After i took the outwear off it was back to normal. I was worried because this is a 200 watt RS and we all know there are critics abroad...but for as orange as the flywheel was and as hard as it was to pull it off the windings,the only casualty was the pick up coil.Which I took off a bad stock stator/plate layin around

I ran a stock head with 150 psi of compression and the engine would run around 190-200 after a good flogging.After I installed a pro-design head which raised my compression to 170psi(smaller domes) The temperature on the cylinders never went past 180 degrees no matter how bad i beat on her.The temps on the head were even cooler at 150 degrees. The aftermarket heads just have more aluminum,more aluminum will dissipate heat faster.

I small oven would work,but you would be limited to part size. As for the spray kits,just make sure you buy a good gun,the cheap ones waste too much powder and powder is not cheap.

I had one of those neato bling stator covers that appears to have issues keeping water out. I was riding last weekend and It kept breaking up bad,it would run ok for a while and start breaking up again. I went home ripped the carbs of cleaned and checked the reeds and re-installed everything...I wanted to advance my timing a bit more,so when i pulled the stator cover,i was surprised with about a 1oz of water in the bottom of the cover,the flywheel was rusted orange and there were black spots on the flywheel mag points(looked burned?).I assume the water in the cover was responsible for the misfire i was getting sporadically After removing the stator,cleaning it and allowing it to dry.i tested it with a meter.The stator tested high at 20.5 but the pickup was low at about 75.I replaced the pick up with one off another motor that tested just shy of 100ohm.Reset the gap and buttoned it up with a stock banshee cover. After re-assembly,the engine fired up and seemed to revv ok,but I was not able to warm it up and ride it around Here is the problem,I am leaving for a trip tomorrow...The stator tests ok,the pickup coil tests ok,lighting coil and ignition coil are in spec...Is there a chance that it will start acting up,or are the TESTS a solid indication of the condition of said parts?

Had a magura and got rid of it.it always leaked a little bit..more of a weep at the slave valve.Not worth the money IMO,get yourself a modded shift start and forget about the clutch after you take off.

I use to think the same until I started running one.I noticed operating temperatures were more than 10 degrees lower than the stock head and that was with 50 more psi of compression. Its more of a matter of physics.More aluminum will dissipate more heat...Where is the most heat generated,the combustion chamber in the head.The coolheads not only offer adjustability,but they act like a huge heat sink on the top of the head. I was once a skeptic ,douchebag milkshake like SLORYDER,but I eventually learned.

Does it drop the same side? have you tried switching your spark plug wires? Swapping out reed cages? Or a leak crankcase leak down when its warmed up? I would put my money on an air leak,probably crank seal.I just rebuilt a CR250 that was doing the same thing.kept thinking it was the jetting.

Extra set of rings to go with it.

Got a set Front and rear Hipers for sale or trade in nice shape.looking for a set of CPI or Shearer inframe pipes and silencers.Prefer bare steel or chrome,chrome does not have to be perfect,no dents! Fronts are 19x6x10 maxxis razr Rears are 18/10/8 maxxis razr PM me

I just ran the identical setup.Start with 52 pilots needle at middle clip and 152-155 main..airscrews 1.25-1.5 out A 50 pilot will work too,just make note of how many turns out you are on the screws.It was ok with a 50 during june,july and aug.Started to get finicky in sept ,oct months though.