bigborebanshee

The Wellsville terrain is comparable to the hills of west Virginia..The Hillclimbs vary with the weather.Its probably my fav riding spot.It has something for everyone.Three campsites surround the wellsville riding area.There is like 2500 acres of riding there. You can see it from google earth

Yea,i sent my stator back to RS and they sent me a new one.I ebayed the RS stator and bought a used stock stator for what i got from the RS. The 200watt stators are absolutely the worst.

It is not your Dyna ignition,Its the Stator causing your problems.Same thing happened to my Stock cylinder 421,except my o-rings were even more melted! Mine was breaking up very little on the top end .i figured it was jetting until i pulled the head off upon teardown.I could not figure it out either.Until i tested the stator during reassembly. The pistons had no deto marks and the domes were good,but the o-rings were fried. Dump the ricky stator before you change ANYTHING. At the time,the spark plug porcelin was coated in thick yellow glaze..I searched the web and found that this condition may cause misfiring at high engine RPM. Shiny deposits usually suggest that temperatures have suddenly increased during hard acceleration. As a result, normal metallic deposits do not have a chance to slough off the plug and they melt and form a conductive coating which causes the misfire. Yellow or tan deposits, as shown below, usually indicate the use of leaded fuel. Which was probably caused by the bad stator.

Thanks,I was building up to that.

Yea..and this coming from someone who has an education like yourself. Do you purposely set yourself up for failure or does it come naturally? I have worked on enough of baldwins bikes to know if your not a "pro" , your just running a cookie cutter.His cookie cutter is not half bad,but not even the Pro's get to keep their stuff. Its all property of Baldwin racing.Thats how he keeps his edge.

So is this your formula for a pro level racer? Cobble together a yfz/banshee quad Pracetice ALOT! Spend a ridiculous amount of money on something by Mark Baldwin(even though you really got his 2nd best,maybe 3rd) Still ride the banshee but don't bomb the quad or blitz the whoop sections?

does anyone have a measurement or ID of the stock and the cascade stuffer?

I was referring more to the methods than theories.Those books are fundamental in understanding 2 stroke principals/cycle.

Those theories and methods are outdated. They are still effective but as the methods became more understood,cheaper and faster ways were discovered to maximize the output.Aftermarket sleeves,Cylinders,Coolheads,not to mention all of the different piston configurations. Technology has made these old methods obsolete and newer methods/ theories have surpassed the output and reliability of the originals.

I traded a 06 yz450f with a slip on and boysen quickshot for my current banshee.The guy had it set up with a 4mill,toomeys,porting and stock carbs.The swinger was 6 inch extended.On pavement he got me out of the hole and rode out first and second with the front end about a foot off the ground.By the time I hit 4th on the bike,I was blowing by him like he was on his brakes. He then asked me if i still wanted to trade for his banshee.LOL...I said,you are giving me close to 200 lbs.if i was 400 lbs,I doubt i would have run you down like that. You can't even compare a bike to a quad,Those dirtbikes are beastly.It takes a lot of HP to overcome weight

I installed a set of yfz calipers on my banshee this weekend.Noticed a huge improvement in braking.I run a 23 inch front wheel and the stock banshee brakes would blow right through them.With the yfz calipers I could actually get them to lock up for a second .i did not really notice a problem with the stockers until i started running taller front tires for woods riding.The yfz calipers also use pads that have more surface area to them,much like the 87-89 banshees did. I was able to pick up a set of used calipers with dam near new pads for 70 shipped...Great mod for the price

Got em direct from Alba,but Im not sure if they are still making them.I hated the blue plastics,but after I threw the graffix on,I kind of worked with it.

Is anyone using The VP MRX01,U4.4 or VP 100 street blaze. Did you notice a difference over the standard 110 sunoco or Cam 2 pump gas. I know the VP fuels are oxygenated to create more power.The 4stroke riders swear by MRX01 and I noticed it makes the throttle response much better. Has anyone dynoed these fuels on a built banshee?

here it is after the winter restoration.p coat and polish.

Those bowls are good for people who don't need to rejet often.The plastic will get brittle from the fuel and engine heat.Constant re-jetting will take its toll on the screw holes causing them to crack. I had a set and went back to stock.They do look kick ass though and you can get an idea of how high your floats are,whether you forgot to turn your fuel valve on and if there is any contamination

Either you were beating on the engine before it reached operating temp or the piston briefly overheated and expanded too much. I usually check to make sure the bore is still in spec,as long as there is no transition,i would just re-ring and take some fine oiled emery paper and "lightly" rub it out.What you see on the cylinder is from the piston,buts its more like a glaze.

Klotz flex drive, Belray gear saver or Honda HP in 80-85 wt.Even after a whole season,the oil comes out as clean as it went in. The only drawback to the 80 wt oils is the clutch plates will stick a little bit when cold , even after it warms up neutral is always hard to find. I did not notice a problem until after I changed to an aftermarket clutch and omitted the clutch o-rings.they definitely helped seperate the plates when the clutch was engaged.

Does anyone know how wide a stock axle is with 3+5 offset wheels ?..I know the banshee stock maybe 43" but im not sure what the stock offset is

Great carb and easy to tune when you figure out PJ's.A lot of people hate the choke/idle combo,but i like it .Its easy to get to and you don't need tools. I'd start with 50-55 pilots and 150-155 main Stock needle in middle. It helps if your choke knobs have good detent in the action.Screw them both all the way in and back them out 8-20 clicks to start.I think there are about 60 clicks in the range of the idle. It takes time for the idle to stabilize when adjustments are made,so have patience.Start with the airscrew approx 1.75 turns out. After the engine is able to roughly idle on its own,use the airscrews to fine tune the idle and low end. I run a modified full airbox on my 421 and it pulls hard off idle tthrough the top end with CPI and 52 pilot and 150 main.Chops a nice plug too.

THIS PLUS THIS EQUALS THIS

If your not familiar with MICRO FINISH or SUPERFINISH .Here is a company that specializes in it..There are many companies that can produce the superfinish.Its more of a chemical process.I have done this process to every engine I have built including my Pro and Pro-am racers.Its probably overkill for anyone who is NOT competing on a professional level,but our dyno has shown consistent 2hp gains combined with synthetic gear compunds.The company I deal with charges 8 bucks a gear. http://www.remchem.com/page3-31/ISFProcess

You NEVER use the main throttle cable to adjust the Idle,don't listen to this tool!

I will not only explain,i will do it with detailed pictures.That way even the most remedial mechanics can understand. And I said "WITHIN" 2-3 feet,Obviously the closer you get,the more accurate and the easier to isolate an area.Most people don't realize that a IR gun,much like a headlight has a focused beam,the farther you move away from the object,the wider the pattern.

No offense,but you obviously have no experience in using a IR gun.No need to drill holes,but a little experience in using one will show you how to identify abnormal hot spots around the engine. The EGT can only tell you how efficient the combustion process is.It cannot tell you how poorly your cooling system is operating,if you have a scored cylinder thats building a hotspot or if a bearing is overheating due to contamination or lack of oil. Thats the great thing about Aluminum,its ability to transfer heat quick and efficiently are its best characteristics,which make the IR gun a perfect diagnostic tool.