crash&burn

If you have cracked, worn, dry rotted ball joints this may help in replacing the boots and possibly saving you from a failing ball joint and the costly A-arm replacement. First off you will have to order some ball joint boots from somewhere. I got mine form Cascade Innovations for $15. After you get your new boots you will want to lift the front of banshee with a jack or something. Then you will remove the front tires and the tie rods off the spindles. Next you will want to remove the nuts holding the ball joints into the spindle, and then removing the ball joints from the spindle. You will then notice to what i believe is called a spring clip kinda looks like key ring that holds all keys together. I took a pointed finish punch for nails and got it behind the clip and ran it around the inside pf the clip to to remove it and the rubber ball joint boot. Once the boot is removed i cleaned all the old grease out of the ball joint and applied new grease in the ball joint. Now that you have put new grease in you can put the boot on. Since there is lip you have to get the boot over and there is grease on stuff now i used that punch again to help slide rubber boot into place. Now with boot in place you can put the spring clip back on the boot i used the punch again to assist the spring back into place. Since you have successfully got the spring back into place without damaging the new boot you are now ready to put the spindle back on the ball joints and tighten every thing up. There should be pics below for extra help. I did all four of mine in the matter of forty-five minutes to an hour by myself. This is real simple task to do along with it being cheap.

An Air leak will cause it to run wide open like that.... i saw the slides were down in there idleing postion when it was doin it..... just doesn't seem like an air leak would cause it stay in a wide open postion?

Mods are Pipe with air filter in the airbox with lid everything else is stock to my knowledge

So today went to start my buddies banshee up and the throttle would not move it was stuck.... its about eighteen degrees here right now and the past few days and here is the list of things we did.... 1. moved, jiggled, took the throttle cable and moved in such ways you could break ice free in there if the was some....didn't work 2.pulled the airbox of the carbs pushed slides up with my finger and they fell right back down did that a few times....didn't work 3. tapped the tors to try and break up any possible ice build up in there nothin happened.... 4. ajusted the idle up and down on the tors to see if it would help break some thin free.... well it did got about half throttle and the twist throttle would move a bit... 5. so we got the twist throttle to kinda work and then it broke free and was workin and the next thing that happened was the thing stuck wide open and turned into runaway hit the kill switch nothin happened pulled the plug wires kept runnin and shut fuel off and i pulled the choke and yanked the carbs off and it of course died..... while it stuck wide open my buddy ran away from his own quad to let it blow up in my face while i saved it from seizing or whatever it was gonna do So does anyone have any idea what might be the problem besides probabl needing a new topend now.....also i have him finally convinced to get the tors removed

Planning on doing a rear brake coversion on a blaster so i want to put a rear banshee hydro system on it so i will need everything rear caliper, brake line, resivor, hydro, ect.

I flip the castle nut and run just about level with threads on the tie rod and whack it and it falls out hit a little harder next time it will come out.... and if you need new tie rods anyways beat the hell outta them

Itp Holeshots or maxxis razor

Thanks for the info i found them on cascade for $15 a set of 4 wasn't looking forward buying new arms

Got a set of stock A-arms on the banshee right noe and the A-arm ball joint rubber boots are dry rotted and cracked..... i just had the arms of cleaning everything up and the ball joints still felt tight and good i just want know if there is a way to replace the rubber boots.... to my knowlege you can't replace the ball joints unless you by new arms and that is not what i want to do right now

Glad to know i'm not the only one who checks spark this way.... probably the reason why my hair stands straight up and i gotta twitch

Pull the spark plug and put your finger in the spark plug hole and see if the motor will blow your finger out when its kicked over

Maybe better to the work your self next time....this is exactly why i do my work my self.... took mine to a shop and the completly fouled my jetting all up

with a little duct tape and JB Weld you can put any part on a banshee its up to you where stick it

Sounds like you blew it up.... pistons are probably toast.... i would for sure pull the head to check it out.....

you may want to do a leakdown test... you said you rescued your banshee from rotting away from behind the garage.... it just seems to me that its been sittin out there awhile so you may have some air leaks from it sittin.... just somethin to do on the safe side don't wanna cause any problems

Gotta find work kid.... i started working when i was thirteen diggin holes for fences mowin lawns and shit like that it adds up quick.... i'm only 22 i have more toys than most people do at my age and i worked for every bit of it.... in the end that hard work pays off and you will have a sick ass banshee.... just gotta get that money.... by the way when you go out and buy your first banshee do some serious research on it first and don't be real trusting in a salesman not everything they say is true.... i got ripped off on my first on banshee... blew up in the first thirty minutes i had it.... good luck too yea... just keep readin the post i learned alot here and so has a alot of people.... great place to learn from

HAHA... Your right about a twist throtle not for everyone.... every time i touch a bike with a twist throttle i end up with too much throttle and me flying through the air with the bike generally being left behind and me flying landing head first not fun

wouldn't you do some research on this before you buy something like this...

Checkout this site...... http://www.wickedproducts.com/wickedshop/vmchk/Shiny_Metal.html These guys came to our drag strip one year and said this stuff was the shit.... i bought some and brought home to use on my aluminum truck wheels and use it on all my chrome and aluminum and haven't had an urge to try anything else works great

Get some pics and dimensions and some on here can help you out

I would bump the pilot to a 27.5 and clean the carbs make sure there in sync i had this problem with my stockers before... i took mine to a shop to have the floats ajusted and they threw a stock pilot in there without me knowing and it had all kinds of problems till i tore them apart and changed the pilot jets.... the shop guy said after i got it back it "purred like ferrari" and it ran like shit and now i do everything myself

Alright thanks guys i know from experience on my big block in truck i had to big of a carb on there figuring the same concept here with the banshee and just had to check this out thanks for the info guys

So i am in the process putting a 4 mill in my banshee i have been buying parts here and there when the price is right and i got everything besides the 4mill crank... due to budget and other expenses occuring i don't have the cash flow right now to get one..... so i want to know if these 35mm PWK will be overkill or not with these mods until i get the crank it will have stock stroke, stock bore, dune port, coolheed with 21cc or 17cc domes, K&N pods, T5's, Vf2's reeds, intake spacers, and i think thats it i don't have the stock carbs no more so i can't put them back on so are these too much carb for to little motor or will i be ok

I agree... this happened to mine out ridining could not figure it out pulled my K&N's and saw that one of the slides were not comin down right away and mine was due to build up a little cleanin and good as new.... i would pull the airbox and check those out

did check to see if the slide is stickin in the carb happened to me once... sticky throttle cable... spring that pushes the slide down in the carb maybe weak.. just some thoughts for the high idle