crash&burn

If you have access to the stuff to build one i would just make your own i built one myself. Or try some of the site sponsors i'm sure one of them may have one.

When i bought my first banshee it ran on 110 and the guy who i bought it from said just change the domes and it will lower your compresion and you can run pump gas i did as was told not knowing anybetter and blew it up after a half hour of riding and then finding the HQ to find out what the real problem was compresion ratio and some other stuff too. Lucky for you, you found the HQ before you blew your banshee up like me.

Do you run a fuel filter before the carbs that should help stuff stay out of the carbs and hopefulkly keep that pilot from being clogged again.

Energy Conserving (EC) oil can cause wet clutches to slip

Use single weight oils, which do not have VIs and aren't susceptible to degradation in the transmission. However, single weight oils do not flow well in cold conditions, reducing overall lubrication until the oil has warmed up. An alternative is to use a synthetic oil. Synthetic oil are designed to have good cold-flow properties yet maintain high viscosity with fewer VIs.

I've ran marine 2-stroke oil through my banshee before in desperate times when i was out of my other 2-stroke oil. It's what i had for my boat laying around and it takes an hour drive to the nearest ATV shop to get good 2-stroke oil. I don't remeber the what the marine oil was called but the guy at the boat shop said it was some good stuff.

It is A Model 4150, 850 cfm, Square Bore, 4-Barrel, Vacuum, Dual Inlet, Dichromate, Each. A Holley 80436 which is now a 80531 if your looking it up. heres a link with all the specs on it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80531/

I can email pics to you if you would like i am not gonna go through and resize them so they will upload on here. I bought the car from one of my builder buddies and all i know is that he ran it one summer season and just a few runs on my motor till we determined is what to much fuel.

Also looking for a set of stock 64mm pistons too.

For the stripped nut part depends on which one it is. they make easy out things for stripped nuts or you could cut the nut just before you hit the threads and it should come off then and i know Craftsman makes sockets that go on i think 8 diffrents heads of bolts and nuts and and they work well for stripped nuts and bolts if you can pound one on i have done it before and work really well

Got a Holley 850 DP with Summit Racing Dual fuel line with pressure gauge. Carb works fine it just gave more fuel than what i needed for my application. Trade for some banshee stuff or asking $200 for it. shoot me some offers with somethin just looking to get rid of it don't need it no more.

Air leak on the damaged side. If it was fuel i would have thought to see the other piston damaged as well.

Ok, before you start reading my post i am not trying to be a dick or anything like that just trying help and elinminate some possiblities, just creating a little check list. I am assuming these are the carbs that came off the motor you just redid. If so did the other motor run with these carbs cause if thats the case i don't see the carbs being the problem i see it being somewhere else. Since you have double checked if not triple checked everything on the carbs and if the carbs be the problem i'm guessing the carbs are just junk and you need some new ones. i did not notice if you posted a sucsessful leakdown test and what the compresion is for both sides. i did notice you said it had alot more compresion now than before and i was thinkin maybe you have one good compresion cylinder and maybe the other one not so good maybe a missing a ring or something like that. Has the cylinders been bored maybe the wrong piston size i have seen that before cause a problem like this. real hard to start if it even started at all and soon as the right pistons went in it ran like a dream. i've been in situations like this before with my banshee they suck and just trying help another banshee guy out. Maybe if you got a buddy you could borrow there carbs for a quick test to see if its a carb issue.

Ok i don't know if this is right or not i don't have stock crabs no more, but there is spot where the choke tube goes between the carbs and on the same sides where the choke tube goes on the carbs there are spots for overflow tubes too. Could it be possible that your overflow tubes and your choke tube are in the wrong spot. I'm quite sure i have seen this happen before but not sure if this is possible or not just trying to help.

If your lookin for info on parts we need to know what you wanna do to your bike what you plan on doing with it, riding style, your budget and such. Then we can help direct you on what parts you should get and using the search on here helps alot to. You can get alot of help by asking the right questions and doing some research.

Yea i saw it didn't know much about figured it was a thought.... i was also hoping that some one had some input on it for other parts

http://nitroplate.com/ws/?page_id=112 NitroPlate Bright is a highly polished aluminum ceramic coating capable of withstanding 1300 degrees. It has excellent thermal properties. This cuts down on under hood heat, increases horsepower and helps in scavenging of the exhaust.

Have you done a leak down test yet maybe you have an air leak causing a lean condtion

I Was thinkin the same thing a bit rich..... mine was at 330 mains 27.5 pilots, with stock stroke, 17cc domes runnin 110 race fuel, 65mm bore, dune port, T5's, K&N Pods, VF2 reeds, and runnin about at sea leval, and the jetting was near perfect

Did you get the right pistons.... been down that road before the people that order my pistons for me measured my cylinders wrong and got to small of ones and it wouldn't run or idle very well if it would even idle

I don't know if this a good idea or not but if you got all your nuts bolts out you could take a little propane torch and heat the the places where to two cases meet.... aluminum expands and contracts 10x's quicker than steel does and that should break any corrosive seal or glue.... it dont take alot of heat just a little used to do it aluminum heads with bolts stuck in them and the bolts would just come right out ofter that..... and i'm not sure on the 10x's thing but i do know it does contract and expand quite quickly with very little heat

Come on really do a little research first... the time you spent typing this post out you could have found your filters and had them ordered