crash&burn

Ok i figured it might be that i just have never done that before so can you tell me how to measere my float hieght and how to ajust and what should the hieght be at

Ok i have a banshee that will run out of fuel when i am in higher RPMs i have change my main jet from 310 all the way to a 350 changed pilot jets moved my needle up and down and nothing is working is this even a jetting problem this is what fixed the same problem last time was changing jetting i dont understand whats is going on... little advice would help this is what is done to my bike K&N's, VForce Reeds, Port Job, Bored to 65mm, CoolHead with 17cc Domes, T5 pipes with CPI silencers, 110 race gas, 40:1

Gotta cool head with 17cc domes and race gas, T5's and K&N'S...... all my friends have four strokes and they cant believe the kinda crazy power i pull out of my banshee

you could think about like this.... shave a little the first time see if like it if not shave some more..... shave little the first time something goes wrong to where you have to shave more off then you have some still to shave off and you dont have to buy a new head... or you could by a cool head or NOS head and just by diffrent sized domes.... just my opinion on it i would start in small increments... this how do my pistons started small so if ding the walls i still have room left to bore out more and dont have to by new sleeves

that is a big bummer... this almost happen a few weeks ago i was hauling a gas can on the back of mine i heard the can rattling around stopped just in time it look like as the tie down had about a three foot flap hanging down by my axle..... but if you or someone you know can use a torch to bend items back into place you should be able to bend the pipe back into to place with out having to bend it with other tools... just applying heat to the right spots and letting it cool down will send it back to place...... we do this to truck frames and big D8 CATS when the frames get bent all the time..... you have to apply heat on the long side of the bend and let it cool... when it cools the metal shrinks and pulls the bend back in the pipe... this can be very time consuming to do.... i have done it on my truck exhaust when i ripped the motor out of the engine mounts it bent brand new exhaust so i know it works on exhaust just have never tried on something that small and thin before its worth a try its already messed up just dont blow a hole through the pipe....

i would check your head for leaks cause ussally white smoke = water in the cylenders..... if it was to rich i would believe it would black or blue colored exhaust with to much oil and fuel atleast thats how it works with most engines i have seen..... never seen a engine that was too rich that burned white exhaust due to bein to rich.... i bet it is water leaking in there somewhere... another thing you can look into if your head is fine you could have a water jacket cracked in the jugs causing water to leak into your cylenders

also have you tried to pull start it... if you pull start it and it runs i bet you have a carb problem

I have had simalar problems with mine..... had a rough idle or wouldn't idle at all i road mine anys it got worse and it eventally wouldn't run at all i had to adjust needle hieght, floats, change my pilot jets and main jets...... also know if i let mine sit for about a week the oil and race gas will seperate in the carb and gum carbs up and it wont run and i have to pull the carbs apart and clean them

I dont know how the banshee's respond to the fuel if the octane is to high for the banshee... but if your banshee is pretty much stock with just pistons and a shaved head giving you 20cc domes i bet you would be good with premium but to be safe i would run a 50/50 mix of pumpgas/racegas until you can find out what your octane is suppose to be at i always run a little higher ocatne tthan what i am suppose to just so i can avoid problems

Predetonation is not a made up word................ Pre-Detonation / Pre-Ignition; is basically Abnormal Combustion. This is basically an uncontrolled explosion in the combustion chamber caused by any one or combination of more than one of the items listed above as restrictors of ignition timing. In normal combustion the spark ignites the compressed fuel/air mixture and a smooth burn travels through the combustion chamber and building combustion chamber pressure as it goes. This flame travels through the chamber by the time the crankshaft has moved about 15 to 30 degrees after top dead center (ATDC). In Abnormal combustion the air, something in the combustion chamber or even the whole chamber is too hot for the fuel or it is compressed too high which itself causes the temp to raise too high, causes the fuel to explode. This explosion produces extremely high temperature in a localized spot and causes a pressure spike so high and quick that it is like a hammer strike. This extremely high temp/pressure spike can cause extreme damage too. The weakest point in a chamber gives way first. This hammer like strike hits the top of the piston and attempts to go down between the piston and cylinder wall and hits the top ring. which slams down on the ring land below it, braking it down against the second ring. At the same time, the extreme localized heat starts to melt the aluminum piston. On true hemispherical engines (spark plug in the center of the chamber) The extreme heat can first weaken the piston closer to the center and the pressure spike can knock a hole in the center of the piston. In a more wedge shaped chamber (plug on the side of the chamber) the damage usually in done opposite the plug. Abnormal combustion damage is easy to ID. The underside of the piston crown is blackened, the ring land just below the top ring on the opposite side from the plug is broken in a downward pattern and the land above the top ring will be melted and burned away opposite the plug. There is also damage to the top rod bearing as the hammer effect usually beats out the rod bearing.

I thought i fowled a plug as well and so i decided to ride it back to the truck not haveing a spare with and ended up with two pistons with holes..... i had to high of compression with too low of octane which caused the predetonation to occur...

I have Mikuni Carbs

when riding my banshee threw 1st 2nd and 3rd it runs great powers threw until i go to 4th or 5th it acts likes theres not enough fuel in those gears when it gets close to hitting powerband it like it almost hits a govener or somethin no more acceleration... it became a little herder to stqart now as well..... and while riding it sometimes the throttle will stick in places and will stay stuck untill i hit the kill switch or sometimes tap throttle real quick and it will idle down... i pulled my K&N's off when it idles high to see if the needle is stuck and everything looks normal......

Let my buddy ride my banshee over the weekend well when he was done he smoked the clutch in it so what i am looking for is what would be the strongest most durable clutch out there to get for my banshee?????

That sucks to here dunno know of any thing out there but if someone comes up with somethin let me know i would like to have one myself kinda have a bad knee kick startin is not my favorite

That is a wildly crazy awesome blow up.... dont ask do ride my stuff hahaha.... looks like its time too build bigger and faster

ok i do a bunch of trail riding in the fall and spring but in the summer its pretty much nothin but dunes.... so what i am asking now is how hard is it to swap from single to dual carbs... do i have change my throttle cables and stuff like that to make the swap back and forth from single to dual or would it be better to stick with one style of setup.... like now i hill hill climb in third gear with no problems and i out run the four strokes in the trails with dual carbs

my elavation is at sea leval live on the coast.... would going to a like 18cc or 20cc dome cause a huge loss in power to fix the problem... running menthanol or alcohol isnt really option where live its kinda hard to get ahold of trien to avoid that.....

I Dont Know what squish clearence is but timing is about a +5

i was told by putting a big single carb on my banshee will give tons of bottem end which i am looking for what are the Pros and Cons of doing this..... is running dual carbs better..... worth the money... or just a waist of time????????

Its a COOLHEAD with 16cc Domes just want the problem fixed

ok i have the same problem i run 110 octane with around 190 comp. and it still backed out..... i was told by running the coolhead that i have they like to back out any ways... so is my head the problem or what do i need to do next to fix this problem....

I have a 93 banshee replaced the pistons in it after blowing holes threw the old ones now its a real pain to start with repeatedly kicking and it will start... once warm it will start fine soon as it cools it back to kicking repeatedly again till it will go..... these are the mods: cool head with 16cc domes, bored to 66mm pistons, Vforce3 reeds, T5 toomy pipes with CPI silencers, dual K&N, and ported running 115 octane race gas all of these mods were already done to it before the pistons had holes blown through them it started with the forst or second kick before the piston replacement... any thoughts or help for problem would be great i have no idea