gotta_goatsfast

You should see what Mr. James Smart has to say. I'm willing to bet he'll tell you something along the lines of "33mm PWKs for all around performance and 35mm pwks if you want to shift the powerband up a little (meaning less down low and more up top). I would keep searching the forums. Lucky for you these carbs come up for sale all the time!

You can put a 400 main jet in there and it will still idle fine with the correct pilot jet. Do a plug chop to see where he's at. Every motor behaves different, btw.

Who says his motor is running fine with a 240 main?

I wouldn't run anything over 66mm personally... maybe 66.25 if I had to. But at 66.5mm you are pretty much maxed out. No way do you have another bore left in there.

...meaning it retains heat. Decreasing tempuratures under the hood is a result of less heat transfer/radiation. The claim that it helps to scavenge exhaust is because it keeps the INSIDE of the pipe hotter reducing exhaust gases from cooling. Cooler gases are denser and "weigh" more making it a little harder to push out the exhaust than hotter gases. Whether it has much merit or not, the principal for this post is all the same. It would be a dumb idea to coat your cylinders in something that retains heat... Bare cast metal will transfer the most heat to outside air. Polishing decreases this.

Its funny when people post up here wanting to involve others in their thoughts and questions and then someone says "who cares what other people say" haha, obviously the original poster or he wouldn't have made the post.

Whats the plan?

+1 on the Serval. I personally am building a 421 serval with R2 inframes, 35mm PWKS, VF3 reeds, Dyna ignition, straight cut gears, lock out, ect. Its a well built solid motor that is intended to lower the self esteem of the 4 stroke crowd I ride with while maintaining reliability. Obviously suspension work and braking will be just as important, which I have addressed too. The serval cylinder produces a wide range of power so you can cruise it and race it. With the torque it produces, you can really work on spectacular launches.

Matt, Got my shocks on. I was going to message you and let you know that I am genuinely impressed, but I figured I would post up here instead so others can see. The front PEPs feel incredible on the +2+1 arms and the rear shock with new spring and racetech valving matches the +2 swinger perfectly. Originally, I thought I would be most excited about my 421 serval build but I'm starting to get equally psyched about the suspension this year. The shocks also look great and I kind of feel bad for them knowing the abuse they will endure in the future, lol. But performance and cosmetics aside, your prices are outstanding and well worth it! Will definately recommend you to all of my friends when my old tech banshee outruns their new age quads, leaving them wanting to upgrade. haha! Thanks again, Jimmy

So you did a leakdown test when you rebuilt it, and that passed I take it? This is how you know it does not have an air leak? Because, it sounds to me like a definitive symptom an air leak will cause. Its running way lean and your jetting sounds fairly close compared to the symptoms. Do a leakdown test and clean out the carbs. If you really do suspect your reads to be the problem (which I don't really think so because squirting gas down its throat wouldn't temperarely cure a bad reed petal) then pull the reeds out and pull them up about 1/8 of an inch and watch them snap back. IMO if they stay lifted off of the block more than 0.010" then I replace them. If its less than that, the positive pressure in the crankcase will surely close those reed petals tight. Also, what is your pilot jet currently? Needle and position of the clip? And lastly, ground level is different from sea level. If I'm standing on the top of a hill next to the beach by the ocean, the ground might be 30 feet higher than the sea. Now if I was on a mountain...

Just hit up a site sponsor for the gasket and the hardware store for the clutch cover bolts. I believe you'll need 5MX30mm or maybe 35mm long allen head (don't get the stupid phillips screw type). Just measure the depth.

Generally where I ride there's no water so I'm not worried about my pods getting wet. However, last year racing around a new trail following the leader (I was behind the leader in group two, one of the fastest paced racers for A-B class rider) so we were flyin pretty quick. We came upon some heavily mudded/wet low lands that I was never aware of and I got covered head to toe in mud and water. I did not have any problems. At least with my wider suspension, not a whole lot of water or mud flings up the middle and into the carb area. This year I might just make a splash shield to bolt on underneath for when I ride a potentially muddy area.

HAHAHA, thats awesome. I needed that...

Picture doesn't really tell us anything except its got knifed intake bridge and boost ports. You'll have to profile the ports and measure them.

oops, I forgot about the rest of your questions. haha, here I go. I don't know what carbs you have now, so I'll assume its stock. You'll need throttle cable, intake for 35mm carbs, and pod filters. You might score some of those items with the carbs you purchase. You also might have the cable, filters, or intake already depending on the parts you currently have. As for the other questions.... 1. Basically covered. I would NOT run the degree key. Pick up a factory woodruff key for there and mod your timing plate or purchase a timing plate (again cheap when found used). Those keys can shear and cause chaos in your stator cover. 2. Pick up Wiseco replacement rings 3. Need to know the volume of the combustion chamber to give you a definate answer. The stock head might be cut for 18cc where the domes for the aftermarket head might be 22cc (the stock would then make more power at the expense of higher fuel octane requirements). Give us some more info on the heads and we can help you. 4. Kind of a loaded question. lol, basics I would do to any motor is a full tune up of course. Make sure its jetted correctly. I would swap out the cheap plastic water pump impeller with an aftermarket metal piece if it hasn't been done. I would check over your clutch basket (especially if stock) for hairline cracks on the fingers and worn grooves in the fingers. Grab a case saver (I choose T.M. design). A side note, if you're drag ported those T5s are not ideal for you IMO. I think CPIs would suit you if you're still doing other activities besides drag racing and Shearers if you're pretty much screaming all the time. I am going to try out some R2s on my banshee with a 421 serval. I might recommend them depending on how they behave when I actually get to experience them.

If you live in Canada, most of the members are from the USA so shipping shouldn't be too terrible on a small item like carbs.

Nope, bought off a member on here. Search the for sale section on here and post up a wanted ad in the wanted section if you have the funds already. Most of the members here aren't looking to rip other members off so prices are pretty fair compared to ebay and such. So, if you get a good deal then give someone else a fair deal when you sell things and it all works as long as guys are honest.

Take this quick quiz for us... Did it pass a leak down test? What carbs are you running? What jets are installed (pilot & main)? What are all of the modifications? What is your elevation? What is the tempurature? (my banshee runs a little hard until it warms up too, its part of being a cold engine) With out knowing any of this, it sounds like a possible lean condition. You say you rebuilt the top end so I want to make sure you performed a leakdown test so that we can be sure its not drawing air from a leak somewhere. Next I think we should look at jetting. Post up!

You didn't list carbs so I figured you were stock. What carburetors are currently on it? I generally stay away from Mikuni carbs. I'm more familiar with Keihins and IMO they're easier to tune and play with. 35mm PWKs will be best I think. 38s might show a tiny slight increase in the top end but it'll start to get lazy lower in the band. There's plenty of used 35 PWKs that pop up quite often. I purchased a set with K&N filters for $175 last year.

That plastic guide did not fit with my T.M. slider. You might not need it.

If you're drag ported run some 35s. If its not ported at all stick with stock carbs and get it ported. If its mildly ported I would run 28s.

It makes a difference in feel. When I swapped out last year I could lock the front up with one finger. Has better feedback and its smoother.

I know the idea is a few years old, but I'd purchase an MX style jersey to represent. Sometimes I wear my BHQ longsleeve in the fall for trails but an actual breathable jersey would look great flying through the air.

Keep looking. Mine held all 6 psi for well over 20 minutes. I would have accepted 1-2psi drop within that time. Common places are (but not limited to) pto side crank (around key, I use high temp fuel resistant grease to seal it) improperly seated head o-rings (if it has a cool head) a leak at the case seam (and this could mean from the crankcase into the transmission) around reeds/manifold, main seals if the lip was not packed with grease, base gasket, ect.... An other area that is sometimes forgotten is that your leakdown tester leaks (some don't check this). It could be leaking where you plugged the exhaust or around the rubber boot on the tester's valve/gauge or the valve and seams of the tool itself. So get back to your game of "where's waldo" and let us know if you win. EDIT: read you wrong. I thought you said it dropped to one psi. lol, anyway its still good info but 1 psi drop will be acceptable.

If the grooves are deep then your clutch might not be disengaging properly causing a hard shift, too. The eccentric screw to adjust the shift shaft has nothing in common with the clutch assembly. Its a cammed screw that adjusts the height of the shift shaft so that it can be properly centered over the shift star. Might as well get into the motor now. Procrastinating means your quad is still down in the main riding season (and people with short patience levels will usually throw it together in a hurry resulting in costly mistakes). Check out farmandsandtoys.com. Jeff Wendorff is a site sponsor and carries the parts you'll need (and want since you're in there). I would pick up a magnum basket, new clutch, pancake bearing, modded shift shaft, easy spring, modded shift star, billet water pump, and the nesseccary oil and gaskets. These are all worth while mods while you're inside the clutch cover and will be well worth it. If the problem still persists, then its time to pull the motor and split the cases. This is the only way to access the forks.