Larry's Shee

Only time I've seen mention of seals without splitting cases is during middle of ride trip, then did it right way when home.

X-2000 /\/\ Wish I had a dollar for every time I've seen it. All kinds of weird symptoms, some that defy logic.

Look in the Dyno section, lots of setups. Also search SLP pipes.

Do you realize when you change oil ratio it changes the fuel/air ratio ?? I'm of the more oil is better camp. I mix 28:1, bean oil. FYI , quicksilver's a boat oil. Lower rpm, more constant load/RPMs, over cooled from the surrounding water.

Lucky you have someplace reputable close. Please post the results !!

After you seal the keyway on right side crank, do your leakdown test. Then do compression test. Post results. Then list ALL your modifications and list carb settings. Pilot, main, needle numbers. Someone familiar with single carb will tell if you are close. Also need to know your elevation and temperature. Do not try richening to clean oil out !! When you get things straightened out start with new plugs again. While fucking around ohm coil and plug caps separately. Trim 1/4" off plug wires and install caps with dab of dielectric grease. Check/set pickup coil gap .018" no rust on the nubs. If one is considerably higher than the other LIGHTLY sand it down.

No, you want to set it to the correct height. And make sure needle valve is opening correctly.

Don't expect a whole lot for that little.

As mentioned you need to go through everything. Electrical and fuel. From tank vent to float level. Stator to spark plugs and everything in between. While carbs are apart to make them pussy clean, write down jet numbers. Check cooling system, impeller good?? Btw, I don't think RZ carbs are any different.

Boats operate at lower rpm, temps, power output, and more constant speed, different oil needs. As mentioned, being cheap on oil means you should pick a different hobby.

Mice love those little pipes.

U would pull the exhaust and have a look at the inside of the cylinders. If there's any sign of rust might as well start taking it apart. I just got done redoing one that sat for 5yrs, rusted solid.

When my son bought his Banshee it had a random misfire. Sometimes none, sometimes pretty bad. I did everything all at one time so I can't say what did cure it. Cleaned all connections,added dielectric grease, trimmed plug wires, cleaned nubs, set gap, cleaned inside of flywheel, cleaned stator poles, cleaned back of timing plate, cleaned where stator mounts, cleaned stator ground.

Short answer : YES !!

Dammit

Two things you should do first. Leak test the engine to see if a leak caused the failure. Then find out what jets and needle are in the carbs. Post up what you find. Banshee engine is probably the easiest engine to work on. Get a Clymers Repair Manual.

So it runs fine at mid to high RPM, misses at low to mid ?? Could be weak reeds

Most pipes like at least a 27.5p Did you do this jetting? That big of a main jet could be masking an air leak.

Should be good to go !! Just noticed you're in Flint, hope a better part of it (if there is one) Over near Davison/Lapeer myself

You posted second pic just before I posted

Didn't see second close-up pics. I'd replace

You talking about the two lines? Was it leaking? How's the seal ? Don't know how old it is ??

NOPE !! Banshee uses a wasted spark ignition. Both plugs fire at same time, twice per revolution. As mentioned check pickup gap, if more than few thousands different LIGHTLY sand high one down to make more even. Make sure both are rust free. No goop or oil on pickup coil. May have to remove flywheel and check for rust on stator poles/inside flywheel.

Don't worry, I asked same thing once. Extra parts make me nervous.

Don't be so cheap, more info wanted !! Obviously a LP. How's the power delivery/rideability for trails? I have a jacked up motor and was thinking of DL cylinders.