Larry's Shee

Baby Stvn this right here proves that you catch for the BUTT HOLE PIRATES. I have never met anyone who bragged about what happened in combat, don't matter which war. Had my number not been 266, I'd have shot a piece of shit like you, instead of just protesting the war. Go fuck your mother again,cock wad sucker.

Measure the side to side with feeler gages. Look in manual. BAMM, there's your answer.

Hopefully you mixed oil with the gas??

Clean and tighten ALL conections, add dielectric grease to them. Make sure coil mount is clean bare metal. Better yet is run seperate ground from coil back to engine. Clean rust off ststor poles and nubs on outside of flywheel, set pickup gap. Trim 1/4" off plug wires, add di-grease, install caps.

Take and cut about 2" out of your pipes

It's called the choke crossover tube. Also carb bowls are specific to each side. LEFT BOWL HAS A "bb" ON FRONT SIDE, CAN'T MIX THEM UP.

I would pull that cylinder and look at it better. Either the pin bearing is shot or the big end (crank) bearing is shot.

Doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure that a dune port or mild drag port might not work well in the trails. JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Or just buy the dam thing and if you do not like it, change it.

What's the elev there?

Odds are if it's "shutting down by itself" you have engine damage.

Gear should move frreely as it spins continuos when motoe is running. Better see why it isn't free.

You could have a rod 12" long and you still be stroking it 54mm

Didn't know they did that at the hill.

Problem is that you're wanting to do the oppisite of a part out. Some make more money on the parts than what they could sell whole. Start looking on CL and just start widening your search area. How far you willing to drive?

The oil has to say "wet clutch compatible". Hopefuly you drained old fuel first. Clean air filter. Check all nuts&bolts. Lube cables. At least make sure TORS box is unplugged.

27.5 pilot too !!

What do you consider "performance" plugs. More info needed.

Start with cleaning the carbs real good . And not just a quick douche with spray. You may have had crap in the bowls that made it's way to a jet when rolled. Then check electrical connections. Tors disabled?

Ya, DON"T ride it till you have it jetted. If you haven't damaged it already you'll be lucky. Start with fattes (largest) and work your way down with plug chops or learn how to "read" them.

Ya make your own "kit" so you get what ya need. You tell them I need a 290,300, 310, 320, 330 or in what ever range you need.

Once the high end hydrocarbons go away you're lucky if it's 89 octain. Todays gas is such bulshit. Works great for closed system.

Tors delete comes with new cable. Now is the time to decide if you want to stay with twist or go to thumb. If you like the way it runs, stick with the pipes you have. Speed is only limited by cubic DOLLARS

You will have to find an aftermarket shop to get your jets as it seems as the dealer only caries stock jets, so sad. Either my search/computer isn't working, but there was a member over your way that either his "specs" might help you or he might be able to. Screen name was Banshe 2020, or 6060, I think, don't really remember.

This is kind of tuff. You have a pretty wide day/night temp swing, enough so that you might want to jet one size richer for night riding from what works for days. Not knowing what you have for porting and other mods, I would get 300-340 mains. Either do a "plug chop" or learn/know how to read your plugs. The needle clip and pilot jet numbers sound good. Start with 340 and work your way down. It's better to leave a little HP on the table than to burn your motor down. IF you only drag race for short bursts you can jet away with leaner jettin, but if you're going for long runs go rich (fat)

Same elev as Jereme, same riding spots, even same neighborhood