Larry's Shee

Tors delete, new cable, Charriot or 400ex throttle.

Back the center bolt almost all the way out so it threads comepletely into flywheel

I used some pvc caps that fit in the boots. Little 3bond sealant, clamps, done. Don't need no stinking crossover tube.

If you've never ridden a 2s, they're a different beast, no low end power. Bigger carbs hurt that more. List all known mods you have, elevation you're at, and temp, and someone will be able to help get jetting close. Pics and measurement of carbs will help .

X-2 on banshee as investment. Did +4crank, bore, pistons etc = $850 Not saying you won't make some money, just won't be a ton.

Ya, I know. Just adding a little humor

I would like to buy a clue for $200. what is a drag n ported head?

That's why he should do a leakdown before tearing it down.

so this problem started when you used different fuel?

Don't forget new pin circlips too.

X2 on investigating before you tear it apart. is coolant level good?

I forgot all about the pipes. I'd snatch up the cheapest set of drag pipes and modify them to fit.

Well, this boat left the dock early on You can catch more flies with honey than vinager. Seeing as this is a Banshee forum, not much info here on your subject. Welding a kit together is not the same as desining and fabricating a vehical. I know I'm an asshole, you didn't have to remind me. But, I'm not an ignorant one Having built a snomo drag motorcycle, I have a little insight to this problem. Building a frame from scratch will probably be easier (and safer) than strecthing a Banshee. The clutch shaft MUST be perfectly parralell to the crankshaft. I would suggest using the chain case from the snomo too. Will make gearing changes easier, as you won't need a sprocket as big as the rear wheel, and guarenteed, your first gear choice probably won't be right. (experience talking) This shaft must also be parralell. No matter which way you go, you now need a custom shaft to accept the final drive sprocket, which I know you don't have laying around. If you don't use a fuel pump you need diferent float needles for gravity flow. If you ever get this far, you will then have the joy of tuning the clutches, as it is no longer a sled. Of corse you have a selection of weights, springs and helixes laying around Might check Planet Sand or E2S for this type of build. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Will you be man enough to admit failure on here?

Ever do a plug chop/read? (properly?) If flywheel has slipped, lap the wheel to the crank.

Smooth any ugly welds before, ask if they have plugs for threaded holes, if not use sacrafitial bolts. Have all paint supplies on hand before it goes to blasting, Paint as soon as possible. Wear latex gloves EVERY time it's handled after blasting. Have all other prep done before it goes to blast. If PC is so mutha fuggin great, why do you need to touch up? Nail polish must be pretty durable shit.

Wouldn't hurt to clean the screw and nut and use some loctite on it.

Why do you need pistons already?

Start by draining and flushing the system, including drains on cyl. Once you get it fixed then drain and fill with anti freeze/coolant of choice, unlees it will be subjected to freezing temps. Then leak down test the engine. Don't tell us who we can or can't hate on. Minkia 38 is my favorite ass clown.

The difference is amazing. Good shocks should be the first thing done.

Don't cry, blowed out works are probably better than new stock fronts

Don't count on being corrected nicely around here Where you located?

Check tank vent. Maybe gut the cap Sure you ran it dry? Did you re-jet for colder temps?

^ XX2 ^

If 270 was summer jetting you need to jet richer for cold air . One size for every 20* colder, on main. Cleaned carbs lately? No bean oil below 40*

Berrymans Carb dip, DO NOT soak rubber or plastic in it. "Bout $20 @ Autozone or such