Larry's Shee

Studs don't wear threads out in alum cyls.

Thought the BBottle/boot rip was myth untill I looked at them close. Flexing the boots showed some cracking. Twisted, all I used was two PVC plugs/caps that fit in the boots. Installed with 3Bond and clamps, Don't even need crossover tube.

you need a T fitting to split the fuel line. And ditch the boost bottle.

Well, it should increase the A/F a bit, so might want to start a size or two richer for plug chop/read. Also make sure that the ex is radiused well for the extra width, and that there is good champher to aid the rings.

Exactly how Banshee came back, marked A & B.

Expensive learning curve on tuning and boreing. Probably should have been about 320-330 on main for those temps. A good machinist would have the pistons before boreing so they could be accurately honed for final size. Shop I use had RM cyl bored and shipped back 6 days from when I dropped it off, just saying

Wonder what the factories use? Would be cool to see what actually happens(inside cyl)(A/Fm swirl) when on/off the pipe. Would probably take some NASA quality shit. Transducers, infrared, cameras. I would like to see comparitive graphs of w/wo boost ports (no other change). How much they actually add and where. Also what the A/Fm velocities really are. For the mix to make it from the reeds to the cyl @ 9,000 rpm it has to be moving pretty damn fast

Seeing that you have VF reeds, only other thing that could dent a piston would be a bearing ball/needle.

I must be a blind old fuck, as I can't see what the fuck you're talking about. Both have sleeves. That's the iron part that sets below and sticks into the top case half.

A piston port engine has a literal fog at the carb mouth.

Ya, only one Negative Nancy so far. 58 sounds pretty decent !!

Set float levels while fucking with it.

Either set the gap to the shortest nub, or if other gets to close split the difference

Try adjusting clutch properly. Do you have much experience on a 2s?

Because that's how cyls wear. Very little side/side, and more in center than top/bottom

JMO, but trail pipes on drag clys just won't work

Can someone post up a bone stock graph?

I would bypass all switches (even just temp). Add ground from coil to engine.

What would be nice is an independent test to "prove" the "new" oils are better. I've seen the claims of less oil means you're burning more fuel. But correct A/F ratio is same no matter what. 32:1 is popular because of the math/size of bottles. I run 28:1 because plugs are cheaper than parts. JMHO, your results may and will vary.

Would the PTs match up with FMF silencers?

Who asembled it? Was it leak tested? What oil and ratio? Any excess smoke? Both plugs same? Grey would indicate lean(ish) if everything else is good. No coolant loss?

Learn how to "read" plugs, even if you have to get an eye lope or lighted mag glass. Take extra jets/plug with you.

Two screws hold it on. Old toothbrush to clean it.

Many gut the "no spill" function of the cap