No matter what it's float related. Either float hitting bowl, sticking on pin/posts, maybe leaky, wrong level, or your chinawanese needle/seat isn't worth a shit.
Using the proper puller, not a 2/3 jaw, remove flywheel. Clean all rust from stator poles. Clean inside of flywheel. Clean timing nubs on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up gap at .018, check at both nubs.
This is what I did to eliminate one sided miss.
Might depend on what was done with the porting. When you remove the spacer the roofs will be lowered, timing retarded.
As to the jetting, I would highly suggest a leak test as 350 seems rather big.
IIRC there is also a washer for gear. Is clip groove good? Use new clip with with square edge out, other side is slightly rounded.
Or do like son's PO did and weld that bitch on.
Banshee engines are really the easiest motor there is to work on. Get a Clymers manual or find the download on here.
What do you call "some play" in the rod?
What if the reed flange is warped on that cyl and it needs to be lapped? Or the rtv went to shit?, as I'm not aware of any rtv that is gas proof. I know men hate reading directions, but check that shit out.
I almost feel sorry for you.
Did you clean the "new" carbs? More than quick douche with spry can? Can you actually see through the pilots? What size are they? What's air screws at? What's float level?
Sure reeds are good? Slides, bowls on correct carb? You sure, double/tripple check. Crossover tube? Good blue spark?
Could be the 4x156x10 that was only on 89 (90?) banshee.
IIRC, there is a Polaris that use that pattern on rear, not that it helps with tire selection.
46 posts, no threads makes you one hell of a troll.
Or, you're a Sport Port nut sucker from Butt Fuck, how else would you have knowledge of a Busco trip?
NZ , I would guess New Zealand.
Call them and tell them to stop everything . You could ship that fucker to U.S. and back for 3k
What's the mechanics name? Ben Dover?