Larry's Shee

Do one carb at a time. They have carb specific parts, that will fit on the wrong carb. Don't forget to install choke crossover tube. Might be wise to invest in Clymers repair manual too

well, can't beat the price !!

I looked into this a while back, and the hydro fluid has a spec on it as to clutches. Such as hydro trans (zero turn, etc) As long as it doesn't have friction modifiers, I would think anything in a 10-30, 30w would work. Motor oil with SM or less rating.

If it's in Canada I bet a buck Aunt Jenny is involved somehow. You do still remember the bitch, don't you? You know, allow Canadian garbage dumped in Mi because it's international commerce.

Is this a new set-up you're trying to dial in?

That ^^^ and new plugs

Had over one year and full race season. No results? MIA? KIA?

If totally bone stock you'd notice it more than one with some bolt ons. 22 will give bit more ground clearance. If you don't like it drop down to a 13t front.

Going 11 wide you will spin .01% less on take off. " 22 dia you will spin 1% less on take off. Will have slightly faster top end.

This ^^^ too. Or, Take boot to hardware, get pvc cap that fits, install with 3bond and clamps, that's what I did

O ring on coolant pipe to pump

Float level too

if the flywheel is loose, wouldn't hurt to lap it to crank before re-install

working the clutch lever during warm-up may help

Take the carbs apart and clean them. I prefer soaking them in Berrymans carb dip. A quick douche with a spray can might not do the job. There tiny passages in there, make sure you can blow compressed air thru them. Make sure you can see thru main and pilot jet. Be sure to pull main jet emulsion tube for cleaning. Set the float level. Float bowl with "BB" on front goes on LEFT carb, cut away (angle) on slides faces air filter. Don't forget choke cross over tube. LEAKDOWN TEST !! This may prevent your new top end from going BOOM!! Because you just worked on the top end, odds are greater you have a leak, from your "symtoms", than a dirty carb. 7lbs for 7 minutes. Buy a Clymers repair manual, or find the download on here. Buy a box of clues, too

T-5 on drag port, sweeet

Ok, well I belive lack of certanty could lead to catastrophic failure. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Well, if I spent 4g or 9g on a motor I sure the fuck would want a sheet for my motor either for bragging rights or if sold so I could prove power out-put. JMHO, your results may and will vary.

Mechanically inclined, screws up everything. If you can't keep a Blaster together, a Banshee will only last you half as long. Give up now and get a Warrior. Reliable as a rock, and just as fast.

In short term, on a milder build, probably would be fine. One thing you didn't mention Hemi, is what ratio he was running? I'll start a shit storm here, factory owner's manual calls for 20:1 for break in and 24:1 after, and I run 28:1 in the Banshee, Blaster, and 89 RM250. I read a report/test on oil ratios, and up to a point, the test engine actually made more power burning more oil.

No matter which brand, take a seal off and pack them with grease, or install zerk on carrier and remove inner seal. I've used All Ballz with good luck

Confuzed? That's a linc to putting Banshee system on XS650. Stock rewound by ......1026 (can't recall screen name) Racetech Electric (site sponser)

Cuz needs to be nutered so stupidity expand. Saved .50$ on oil and now needs $900 repair, sounds like Obama economics.

...so are u saying a pickup gap being slightly off can or may cause a sputter...?? Short answer, yes. There's a reason they give a spec and not a range, .018" . Because a card could vary in thickness, this method is good ONLY if you are somewhere (ride) and you have to set it. Otherwise dump the ghetto/hillbilly method and do it right. I've seen mention of sanding one nub down so they can both be same. Or set the largest gap to spec. Clean any rust off nubs.

Always thought a tight hole was better.