Larry's Shee

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/mcy/1988524691.html Not mine ,thought someone might be interested.

https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0CQb1pV1ycgMDQ3NjQ4ZTUtMjRlMC00Y2UwLTlkNzctNGY4ZGIxYjZhMDI1&hl=en

Pull the air cleaners/boots and look to see if the carb slides are comeing down all the way, if not you have a problem with carbs , cable , or throttle. Btw , it only sounds like 10k . Welcome to BHQ !!

Just peeked at M&M site Seems the Serval is only 4mil

Welcome to BHQ !! Either you bent shift fork (lotsa work) or shift shaft needs to be adjusted inside clutch cover. The "claws" have to be equal distance from pins on shift star. A Clymers manual is the first thing you should buy.

Isn't that kinda like taking money under false pretenses? $1000 makes it a felony.

http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-head-mod-billet-cut-modify-machine-squish-dome-plug-heat-race-drag-online-modify-modification There you have it.

BTW, Welcome to BHQ !! 2 Stroke powerband is second only to SEX (IMHO) and my first 2s was a 238 Kawi in 1970. Still love the rush !! Keeps me young !!

It's either the powerband or you're both having an orgasum.

Well if you get some good response to this thread ,e-mail him a linc to it, might change his mind . He already has a little tarnish on hi name. As a bussiness he's taking a chance of causing himself more greef than gain. Keep us posted , can't help you much unless you're down for a road trip.

It's hard to come up with something different, but you've done a good job. Maybe flat clear coat on spring/ shock? If you paint or pc springs I'd go with a different green or tan. BTW, I had to look 3 times to realize difference in uniform camo , Marines have black in it.

Clymers manual is your friend. To many steps for me to try to explain. Spring on gear faces away from gear , straight end of spring goes in slot , Gear spring goes into half moon slot on case ,kick stop arm goes slightly CCW of gear spring , use needle nose pliers turn return spring clocwise hook on spring post. Pages 164 -170. Your results may vary.

My suggestion has nothing to do with it being a 4mil. It is to remove any almost loose particals that "might" come loose later and possibly get into bearing. Case matching is not necessary unless you need that last 1-2 hp , or if they are grossly mis-matched. It will provide the soothest flow of intake charge though. Do a little search ,think I saw example of it on here before.

Bore only what it takes to clean it up. X-2 on Weisco. No jetting change with new bore , only major changes to air flow , intake/exhaust.

Do you have aftermarket pipes? My son's 'shee has the 2mm head gasket.

I belive you need 87 -90 , after that they have different plugs. Or you could use any and change plugs.

Don't know if paint would mix with epoxy, worth a try. Maybe a dab of black silicon?

Are you saying you run out of power when you hit third? Either you have a major fuel delivery problem,jetting problem , or you really effed up the pipe . Teroretically ,going from large motorcycle to smaller quad tire you would gear up to keep same speed. Might try over here, many who have done Blaster hybrids http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-mods-swaps-129/'>http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-mods-swaps-129/ http://www.blasterforum.com/ Hope this helps, that thing should haul balls.

Did you do a couple heat cycles then re-torque head?

Are you talking where the bearing rides in the case or did the crank rub on the case? Unless the crank practially rubbed through the case you're good to go. Lightly sand scarring with medium emery cloth to remove any small particals that might come loose later ,clean well, put it back together with new crank.

Seems I saw something about the pipes. Depending on the dent might have to do several freeze/thaws. Couple expandable plugs for the ends. Let us know how it turns out !!

Welcome to BHQ !! Get a Clymers manual , read as much as you can here , especially drag and jetting forum. How many " pieces" was it in? If the motor is down , look it over closely, Mic the bores and pistons to be sure everything is within spec before you put it back together.

Have to realize he is in Saudia Arabia , might be big challenge ($$$) on ship, import/export BS. . Clean-up porting will not hurt. I have seen U-tube of some bad ass Banshees dragging in Middle East (maybe S.A.) Another thing to cosider is that he is already on his last bore (66.5) so he does not have a whole lot to loose. 9090, do you have any other modifications on it ? Pipes ,carbs, timing? Might also do those for HP increase. Also saw you have 4mil stroke ,do you have 2mm spacers under cyls , 2mm head gasket , rechambered head , or coolhead with stroker domes?

Scanned few pages on jetting, didn't see any with just filter and slip ons, but simular w/pipes got up to 300 range like AK said. I think 240-250 would be safe start, If you run no lid try 250. To address other issues, do you have parking brake electrical safety shit ?(problems). Choke crossover tube on? Slide cutawys facing air firter. Hold carb right side up and operate float to see if it might be sticking going up or down ,look for corrosion on float where pivot pin goes. Look at float needle , if there is a ring or groove it might not seal good. Set float height. Have you had much run time on this, enough to see if trans or radiator level going down?

Here we go