Larry's Shee

Don't know about running in cold (32-) . Plus would think you would't want to leave in tank for long periods because it would absorb moisture . JMO,.

Don't know if there's much demand for flipping that type of vehical. If you're not real good with inspecting trucks might want to take it to a mech , $50-100 for inspection. X-2 on gas hog.

I'm sure it looks beautiful in a picture.

If this is a troll we still all had fun ,if not then maybe blow some compressed air into it for a while to dry it out , spray some WD40 in and ride that bitch. Next time dont park in deep water I'm with AK about the water and mud. If you ride where it's dry , great for U , if not , enjoy the mud and wash the bitch later. JMHO , your results may vary .

Well , you was told wrong . If I had a dollar for every complaint about Ricky stuff ,I could buy a stock one new. Have seen two and three trys on new in box before person got one that would work. So when you come back in a couple months saying it runs bad , you will be told to junk the Ricky. Personally I don't understand why no one can make an aftermarket stator that works and holds up.

First clue is the boost bottle . Draw back to alky is having to purge the system after running. Doesn't seem to look to bad . Check it out closely and do a comp test on it , don't know acceptable range for alky motor . Changing back to fuel will at least involve new domes and re-jet , maybe different carbs. Check out his other add for a different 'shee ,all stock.

That's why stock pipes won't rev past about 7500 and you are right about oil ratio, tho it might be 24:1. The closer to the ragged edge the higher the price. John Force makes 10,000 H.P. and rebuilds after 4 seconds at full power. It's all relative. I have a 72 250 Elsinore I bought new. It ran either 16: or 20:1. Ran the shit out of it for years and years and after it sat for years I did a semi resto. The motor was still on original piston and rings. Cyl was still within service limits and piston replaced only due to crack. Myself I would rather leave a couple horses on the table , put up with a little more spooge leaking around pipe , new plugs more often, and have an engine that lasts longer. JMHO , your results may vary.

Reason being is that you are wasting bores , in other words you will fix it less times. Only bore what it takes to make it straight. You gain almost nothing with .040 over .030 bore. JMHO, your results may vary.

Well, then start by cleaning carbs one at a time as they're different. Pay close attintion to pilot jet. Record jet sizes and needle clip for reference. Be sure to install choke crossover tube. What do your plugs look like now? Stock air filter?

Considering I wouldn't know the difference between a Cheeta and a DM if they both bit me on the ass, the fact remains you can't sell a Ford and call it a Chevy.( I at least know there is that much difference) I do know when you get to that level of performance you are constantly tearing down for inspection/maintenance. So how could he have missed the clutch? Granted the crank might have been from the last assembly but not the sprocket nut. And it's not like someone is going to let you tear it apart before you deal. Karma can be a bitch. Guess he best not come around here no more. If he were a REAL man he would make good. What your daddy should have done 333DDD

This needs to be pinned , JMHO , your results may vary.

Looks like a wandering salamander

Why 40? was it already at 30? Or scored that bad??

Welcome !! At least having built cars you're aware of speed vs $$$ . Porting can be equated to putting in a big cam , EXCEPT you can't take it back out . On the plus side it is cheaper to a certain point to mod a 'shee to go fast(er) . Read a lot in the drag forum to get ideas on what others are doing.

Check the ball joints , suspension ,swing arm brgs , and axle brgs good. Look to see if he does have another 'shee in the garage. Things aren't moving good right now and might see it as a good opertunity to get a good ride for his wife. Keep in mind that you have what he wants , not so much the other way , use this to your advantage. If you find some things wrong use that to make him sweeten the deal . Check the frame for bends , repair welds, major dents.

Also be aware there is an adjustment for the clutch under the cover on the pressure plate. You're not getting enough travel/rotation on the clutch arm to push the pushrod. The other posters will have to explain how a worn out clutch won't disengage. A worn clutch will slip under load or not engage at all !! Has your clutch always been like this? What are you using for trans oil? If you have TORS idle ajust up there if not screws on side of carb , also try small adj of air screw. BTW, Welcome to BHQ !!

What kind of fuel do you plan on using?? Oil ratio?

Check out the stickies at top of this forum also . Lots of info and help there. Could try adjusting air screws or needles . Usually don't have to change pilots till you add pipes. Only change one thing at a time !! Maybe try pulling choke out little bit on take off , if better then need tad richer. Have you cleaned carbs ?? Need wide open space to do plug chop properly . Othewise just "read" them. Did you have this problem before swap?

Might be master cyl taking a dump Time for re-build kit.

99% you'll need clutch cover gasket. 2qts of trans oil (doesn't use quite all). Inspect waterpump gear , and kick starter ideler gear. If idel gear is loose it can cause clip to pop off and cause LOTS of damage. I don't have to worry cause P.O. welded the washer to the shaft . Inspect O-ring on coolant tube where it plugs into back of waterpump. Might consider an Allen head bolt set for covers while you're at it. Should be able to do this even if shop doesn't have manual in stock. Put a little white grease , antifreeze , spit , or KY jelly on O-ring for assembly , some put grease on the gasket so it doesn't stick for future work , myself if the surfaces are butched up I use gasket sealer. Post up what you find , or if you have more ???. Some one will always help. BTW, shift claw might have jumped off from extreme rough handleing from impound .

To bad they aren't like F-1, RPMs would be diplayed green, yellow, red. Could do same with temp. Would be cool as hell. JMHO , your results may vary.

Glad to see you got it going again !! Did you go with new bore or just new slugs? If you haven't re-torqued head do so after your tuning trip.

Welcome to BHQ !! Don't think you got hurt on the deal. As for flipping it , don't hold your breath.

Welcome to BHQ !! Seems most first posts are for problems . First thing to do is get a Clymers Repair manual , best tool in your tool box !! Now as for as your problem , Pull clutch cover (drain coolant first ) and inspect external shift mechanisim. My guess is either broken spring , pawl , or shift star came loose from end of shift drum. Hope this helps point you in right direction. As far as oil PLEASE search !! Has been covered a BILLION times (well only 498). This is for both tranny and premix. BTW , post back with what you find , thanks .JMHO , your results may vary .

I'm liking it even better that the Franken rivits are gone. Little more work and some paint it will look great. Full , cut ,fast fiber , no fenders. Not much choice. Nothing wrong with trying something different , outside of the box. Kinda like hot rod styling with just enough fender to be legal. Please be sure to post pics of the finished /painted product.