Larry's Shee
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Everything posted by Larry's Shee
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http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137560 DIY
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Put an add on CL that states it does 110, BAMM, done Or put whatever sprockets on it, fly it to 10,000', push it out, guarenteed it will hit 132, once. If you havent figured it out, we're being sarcastic. You are trying to break the laws of phisics, and common sense.
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Go back thru and clean fuel system tank, petcock, carbs. If stock carbs be sure to clean one at a time because they're different. Be sure to remove pilot jet and clean that passage. Set float level. Also while you have it apart record your pilot and needle clip posistion. Do you have tors? Maybe try adjusting air screw before you do anything else.
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Aircraft "brand" stripper works pretty good, costs about $30 gallon. Funny thing is that it isn't recomended for alum. Gallon would probably do a frame. Thing is the rust. Wire wheel won't really remove the rust, only loose stuff. Depending on what your desired outcome is, sand, sandblast , or rust converter.
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Need to be a little more descriptive about the sound. Also, if it makes the noise after you "shut the engine off" , it might be evil spirits.
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"A" for the idea, "F" for application. What I see wrong is the bungs should be longer so the ball joints thread in further and there should/could be reinforcement from arm to bung. JMHO, your results may and will vary.
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carb boots, gaskets, seals.
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Also tell us temp and elevation. Will help to narrow jetting a little, as to a little fatter or leaner. You want to start rich and come down from ther. Plugs are cheaper than pistons. That way you can get a range of jets.
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Ditch or cut or get cut front fenders. Get shorter front shocks, sticky tires for the back, scooter tires front. Speed is only limited by cubic dollars.
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You engage in sex , two become one. Get it? On another note check your basket, it may be excessively grooved as mentioned. As to oil, make sure it is rated fore wet clutches. Regular motor oil will fry the plates.
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BEST EXHAUST FOR MID RANGE TO TOP END
Larry's Shee replied to DYNAMITE's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Do you have stock pipes now? More than likely you have stock bore (or slight overbore) because if a person built a big bore , 68mm + it would be ported with pipes. Be aware you will need to rejet with pipes. Read a lot in the exhaust/jetting forum, a lot to learn in there. -
try oiling them up any way
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gear on crank tight? nut tight?
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Are you saying you have timing at +10? Should have cleaned carbs while working on it. List all your settings in the carb.
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Must have the infamous turbonators
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Did you soak the plates in oil? Also if you are trying to move it with cover off/ no oil it won't "slip" enough to roll. Even if it were completly assembled with oil in trans it probably won't roll very easy in gear with clutch pulled.
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IF it truely is adjusted properly and you have a new cable there are two more options. A thinner oil or use ATF, or just don't rev it up in gear. What ever the reason is you need to do this put it in neutral.
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Welcome to BHQ and your new addiction!! Just like crack if you want more you gotta pay!! Start by shaving weight, at least that's basically free. Are you sure that's all you want to do with it? some of the neccesary mods are a one way street, once you do it can't go back. Start by reading threads in the Drag forum for ideas and cost. Good luck.
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Same add popped up in Flint,Mi couple days ago, gone now. Shit $4000 less than the one in a crate If it's too good to be true .......................
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You didn't mention air cleaner set-up. I would start at 330-310, 27.5 pilot. Is this a new set-up or adding to it? See what your pilot is before buying one. Maybe even start at 340, jets and plugs are cheaper than pistons. JMHO, your results may vary.
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What happened with Flotec?
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Try 27.5 pilot. Slides in correct carb, cutaway facing air cleaner? Is bowl with little BB in the front on left carb? Float level good?
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http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591
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One interesting aspect is they aren't afraid to try something. There is a good thread by "Blaner" on putting a 450 front end on a Blaster, after having read it I think the answer for why it doesn't work well on 'shee is in keeping the X, Y, Z relationship correct to how it was on YFZ. One other thing for you is that the Banshee axle fits and adds 3 5/8 to width.
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My son's Blaster has Fat Bastard pipe, Vito's 2 stage reeds, ported cage, stock carb, Wiesco, home porting. Probably biggest thing is suspension, way to narrow. Just finnishing up adapting warrior rear brake, stock sucks. http://www.blasterforum.com/ Good site to find lots of answers. 34 carb would be to big execpt for highly modded or 240 bb.