Larry's Shee

If it's not to late add a grease zerk to the swingarm, make a mark where you want it before you tear it apart, you'll want it a little off center. Ask me how I know . Also add a zerk to the carrier before you put new bearings in, pull the inner grease seals off them. Also coat axle, swinger bolt, pivot bolts with anti-seize where they go thru sleeves. Also brake and sprocket hub splines.

I don't know if the upper bushings wear any faster, but being closer together a little wear amounts to more slop at the ball joints. Pick up some bronze bushings and your good to go for longer.

Lucky you're not a tech up here in the rust belt. You can't imagine how much rusted shit adds to frustration of working on things . Change your point of view when working on it, make it a labor of love. Up here we just throw some screws or cold cutters in the tire, throw on the Carhartts and bbbrrrrrr brapp brapp.

Maybe put to much oil on filter.

Way easier than lots of other stuff, pull all the bolts, etc and you open it like a sandwich. Hell, even I can do it and I'm a carpenter.

Ya, basically using it to polish the seat where the needle contacs it

Should have bought new

Little trick I learned on another forum, take needle seats out, use toothpaste on Q-tip to clean inside of seats, be surprised amount of crap that ends up on tip. Also check that O-ring on outside of it is good (seat to carb body)

King Tuts Tomb??

Fiberglass don't burn . Plus if you were trying to run it it's packed pretty good.

Major P I A to clean that shit out . If I had to do it again I would use shop vac or leaf blower, compressed air isn't enough volume.

Good thing one of your listed interests is finishing school because that is a long run on sentence. Kind of answered your own questions. If the reeds look bad, replace them. And what the hell you doing running it with a missing gasket? Hope you haven't burned it down.

Do a compression and leak down test before you tear it apart. It will point to problems to address during build. Had to deal with a mouse house in just one pipe and it would barely run. For shits and giggles try starting it with no pipe on it, may surpise you.

Be sure to use the proper tap drill and take your time tapping the threads, seen more than one that Eff them up.

Start with fixing/upgrading your water pump.

Awesome Father you are !! Congrats to your daughter too !! Nice animal she bagged.

Start by ohming all electrical, clean all conections add di-electric grease, check that all switches are opperating properly. Make sure any grounds are bare metal including coil. As to the leak, don't know if after powder the plugs at the bottom of cyls either need replacing or at least re-sealing.

I'll bet it"s something to do with an Aribic/English translation program/problem

Welcome To BHQ !! Look around for a four mil cub in running condition to give yourself an idea if it's a good deal, cause you'll need a 4mil crank to use those cyls. I'd try talking him down, it's a buyers market right now,IMHO, your results may, and will vary

Sure you got the "correct" teather? Some are normally open, some are normally closed. Try pulling the teather and see if you have spark.

Can't spoil a rotten egg. Add the oil, zip tie the clutch lever, spin the trans by the wheels shifting thru the gears several times. Then try it. If it's still making noise then the damage is already done. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Ya, new plugs won't hurt. Odds are if you have spark cdi should be fine. If you've been trying to start it a lot it could be flooded bad. I'm with Jereme, if it don't start after several kicks, give it a shot of start fluid.

Do you have TORS or parking brake switch? Set the gap at .018. Check all wireing. Check that nubs on flywheel are clean. Ohm new stator, new parts can be bad

Criss-cross cyl nuts in stages just like heads, re-torque after heat cycles also