robert0762

looking for an A arm frame that is straght and has vin nbumber in tact. Also must be within 150 miles of baltimore md or you be willing to drive the extra distance

Do I need to rejet when I raise my compression?

Stay as far away from trinity as possible. You can port them and gain some more peak hp but prob wont need it with a 10 mill

Looks like you had some deto on the cltch side. i would tear it down and put new crank seals in while your down . It always seems like the right side seal goes first.

banshee brake lines get a lot of air trapped in them especially in the T. I run 450 calipers 450 master ans stock lines for now. Too lazt to put my braided ones on. bUT you have to get a mityvac brake bleedr and blled brakes from the caliper. so much easier and very fast. Harbor frieght has a knock off that works great too thats the one i have. By the way i have 97 stock lines and no probs at all so i dont think its your line

First thing i would do is clean and sync carbs

Is that powder or paint? If powder then thats one hell of an oven.

TM Design works

GEt one and have a blast

Looking good cool build man . Wish I had the time to try somethin like that

not the scotch brite prob someone else who didnt want the frame to be identified. So its prob hot

I am going to bump up my compression some this year and have a few questions. i have a HJR mx hardcore port job 4 mill crank 28 pwks and pc pipes. I have heard that going to high on comp will hinder your topend. So I am wondering what is safe to run as far as comp numbers go. I am planning on running cam 2 110 octane mixed 50/50 with 93 pump gas and caster at 32:1. I dont know what my static numbers are now but i do knoe that the ex port is 28mm below deck. As far as the timimg goes i want to advance as much as poss also but dont want to much that it hurts topend performance. I am thinkin about gettin a dyna ign and getting someone to program me a custom curve. advance as much as i can for low and mid then pull it back on top. But if i dont do that will 6 deg be too much/

ttt

Bump

Domes 18 cc Alky no pitting very good shape I got them with a coolhead from another member but i dont run alky. He said they were alky domes I dont know if there is a difference but thats what he told me looks like stock stroke there is no step cut in them 40 shipped HD Clutch springs from FAST clutch kit 25 shipped They measure 1.77 in/45mm never ran jeff sent me the wrong springs brand new Renthal Sprocket 13 t never installed or ran 20 shipped

250

I am absolutly sick of my kicker rattleing like a fucking school bell. I have rebuilt them plenty of times. i also did the two o-ring trick. Everytime i do that it puts too much pressure on the lock bolt and i I end up loosing my kicker in the woods. ( brand new bolt). i weas wondering if any one has mooded this to stop the ringin. Maybe a bushing of some sort. Just lookin for some ideas to help me out I cant take it anymore. thanks in advance guys

260

Just got back from tearin the streets up on the banshee. maqn i love when it snows and we can do that

250...its all stock

Had the same problem and it was the clutch side crank seal

a buddy of mine put an rz tranny in his bike and he had a hell of a time tryin to figure out the correct gearing. he only has a stock stroke play port though. He don really like it its to tall for that motor especially in the low rpms and trying to launch. by the time he worked it out he was pullin the same top speed as most stock boxes would.So if it were me i would just swap the sprockets out and save the headache. Plus its hard to find the rz stuff

base it around the serval cylinders

You dont need them .Aftermarket clutches dont even come with them nor do they recommend running them.