robert0762

Ugliest thing I've seen since Wanda on In Living Color

I do have a flywheel/clutch holder . Its just some times its a pain to use it if the motor is on the bench .

If you use a piston stop while tightening bolts ie. flywheel nut, clutch basket, sprocket nut, etc can it put a hole in your piston ?

Chariot makes awesome products . I just got the chain tensioner and love it .

Two weeks till busco baby !!!!!!!!!!!

Dune /Play port

I would put a lil extra yamabond on there . Also a place to seal up is the woodruf key on the clutch side and it must be torqued down to get a good seal . I know from experience now i put bond on the key and a lil in between the drive gear and waterpump gear

I was wondering what you guys think about using piston stops for rebuilds ? I really like useing it , but dont know if it is possible to punch a hole or bend a piston crown . If I am doing a tear down and going back with new pistons it doesnt matter . But on the reassemble I get a lil worried and try not to crank down on it to much . So is it safe to use for all torque numbers involved in a complete rebuild ,wich I think the highest one is 58 ft./lbs. for the crank or sprocket ? Also if I am cranking down on the sprocket will the gearing increase the pressure actually being put on the piston ? herse a pic and description if you dont know what I am talking about . http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=28650

Have no complaints so far . The tunability over stock is amazing . Also the quality is much better , wich is why i shy away from oko 's .

I do mostly trail riding and my setup is a low/mid. PC Pipes , MX Port Bumped timing and compression boyssen dual stage reeds . I always read on here that 28 or 30 will give you the best low mid throttle response. That is the reason why I never considered 33,s . I dont want to by a set of carbs and be disapointed that they do not perform best in the type of riding that i do 85 percent of the time. But if I can get away wit runnin 33,s and gain some top end with my current setup then hell yeah I,ll go wit 33's

I am lookin to get a set of 30 mm but I cant seem to find 30 mm PWK's. Do they make a 30 pwk ? If not then what other options do I have . I do not want oko's or Pj's .

Lokks great . You got mad skills with th fab work too . Its def gonna be worth the time you put into it .

28 or 30 pwk's .I runm 28's and the throttle response is crisp and it pulls good from down low

Check your pick up coil gapping.

payment sent on rad

4 mill the added stroke gives you more torque throughout the entire RPM range . Then when you are ready later on you can port for more power .

ill take the rad

I ran a few of the primary drive chains and stretched them out way to fast on a stock motor with pipes. 6 to 9 months . When i put one on my 4 mill it seemed like every ride i had to take up slack. so now i am trying out jeffs chain EKsrox

i SURPRISED THEY DONT CLAIN 100 MPH AND 20 HP GAIN JUST BUY BOLTING THEM ON STOCK PIPES lol

you can get a running blaster all day for 6-900. This guy is gotta be high

I left the wheel lug nuts loose. Luckily i had one still holdin on and went up a hill ahead of some other people and they saw my wheel wobbling.

sometimes i get between the swinger and outer bearing race and fold it up some then you can hit it or pull it out with pliers

x2, I personally never had a problem but a lil sealant should help

Thats pretty cool . I got to get me a welder so I can do shit like that . I always have ideas of tools or just some lite fab that can make tricky jobs a lot easier .

Are the bearings and seals the same for twin row as they are for a stock carrier. I know you need two sets of bearings though