regalrocket

If the kit isn't on the market, when will it be?

Most of the nerf bars I have delt with are of low quality aluminum, and very soft. Once pulled off, you can put it on a flat surface and jump on it and get it to straighten back out.

Awsome, that helps a bunch. I have the retainers, but wasn't sure if they needed the limiters or not. Now I can put em in :cool:

I have a quick question. I have a set of boysen reeds that came with my machine. The yellow 2 stage type. Do you still run the limiters with these reeds? I don't have the install instructions. Thanks.

Really, why have a CDI box when you can have mechanical flyweights for timing? The air shifters work great. But do you want to just up the pressure of the shifter to move the gears, or would you like to use 1/10th of the force for a air shifter only setup with the simple addition of an interupter box. Prostock teams have all the money in the world to make cool shit. They did the R&D and decided that this was a great way to shift gears very very fast. This is a very simple box, it just cuts the ignition pulses out for a 1/100th of a second to cause a slight crank deceleration that will take the tension off the gears. They slide like butter when you do that. Its the same thing you do with the clutch and throttle when you change gears, but this is timed perfectly, and works every time. One thing you learn in the racing world, is that its easier to make an electronic box to do things, than it is to make an elaborate mechanical setup. Mechanical stuff wears out, and over time tolerance change. Electronics, if working proplerly, will do the exact same thing from the day it was built until the day it fails. No tolerance slipping, timing sloppiness and so forth.

Do you want easy or cheap? Really, pulling 2 jugs and porting them would be a pretty easy job (on a banshee, its a hour job to pull the jugs). Its not really cheap, but its not bad. If it doesn't have an aftermarket head, you could do that, and use small CC domes to raise your compression. But your looking at running better gas. How was your traction during the race? Did you run out of gear? Did you have too much gear left over after the race?

Prostock drag bikes use them along with air shifters. The concept is a solid one. No different than momentarily letting off the gas on an old 4 speed, then getting right back into it to "break" the mesh of the trans gears so you can power shift. I have not used this particular box, but I'm willing to bet it would work good.

Looking for YFZ front shocks, for around 150 + shipping. Thanks.

How did I know that GNTTYPE.org would be where you got that info when I saw the title. DO NOT USE TOLULENE, I have been racing cars for 15 years, and been involved in GN's for 13 of those. Tolulene does work, but its BAD for fuel components not designed for them. Its paint thinner, you get it at a paint store, and it will swell seals and destroy fuel components not able to handle it. DO NOT USE THIS. I warned you. It works in small ammounts and small time periods on some cars. But if left in the tank, or if you have a non-compatible seal, you will regret it. Get avgas if you need cheap octane. I am also a aviation mechanic and pilot. Avgas is a much better option.

Well I did some research, and came up with some options for people that are looking to do the same thing I am. The moog part number that works is ES2074R by Moog. They go for about 15 bucks a piece. They are getting harder to find, and it ends up that Ricky Stator also makes a similar style for 19 bucks a piece. We all have heard the RS rumors, so take that for what its worth. I will be ordering some of these, and doing a install write up. I will probably end up having my friend make up some of the threaded inserts for these. If I go that route, I will make up a bunch of them, and offer them on here for a few bucks so that others can do the same. I think that its silly that we have to buy entire new control arms when a simple mod can be accomplished to allow for simple replacement of the ball joints. More to follow.

Would you happen to know the PN or the position on the VW tie rod (driver left/right.............) for the ball joints. It seems that there is a pile of options, and I wana order them offline due to price and avialibility. Thanks agian for the help.

You might have the higher output one that has 2 lighting outputs, If so that other box is the voltage regulater for the second lighting output.

What kind of reaming is required?. I assume they are tapered.

Cheap. I am going to machine my own threaded bushings and modify stock arms to accept screw in joints. My friend owns a CNC machine shop, and I am a 10 year race car fabricator, so its a shame to spend lots of money on aftermarket a-arms just to get screw in joints, when I can modify a set for free.

I was wondering if you use one of the neutral switches from FAST, do you just replace the stock cover plate with the switch plate, and thats it or do you have to do more work? I am just curious if you could toss on a neutral light or not, Thanks.

Where is the best place to get 4 of the thread in (with a threaded stem) ball joints like the ones used on aftermarket A-arms? Thanks for the help.

I inflate my tire a bit, maybe 5 psi, and then brake the hard side (the one with the farthest distance to the tire well in the wheel. Then flip it around and hit the other side. This is all with a standard automotive machine. Works every time.

I am looking for a reasonably priced upper left A-Arm. I will even buy a complete set if the price is right and the ball Joints are tight. Thanks for the help guys.

Its called after firing. Because you got water in the motor, you probably got the spark plug wet, and it wasn't sparking properly. All the kicking flooded the engine, and when it finally did fire, it had so much fuel getting into the cylinders, that the excess ended up in the exhaust and on fire. This after fire is pretty nasty. It is the number 1 killer of turbochargers, and can do a number to mild steel headers.

I have a 98' skidoo mach 1. This sled has 6,000 HARD miles on it. Its a long track, so it sees lots of to the bar powder riding. I pulled the jugs off last year, except for the cylinder that was severly water contaminated from a bad water pump, the thing was SPOTLESS. The remaining 2 pistons were perfect, with no scuffing or marks. I just tossed some rings on it, and put it back together. I also had the bottom end out, and it was spotless. I will run only Klotz in my machines. I have some snowmobile oil that I will run in the quad during the winter, and I will switch during the summer to another Klotz blend. With the tripple, all of my buddies smell good from the exhaust when we get to the bar after a day of riding. Its not my fault my sled smells good, and they are behind me.

Has anyone installed aftermarket ball joints in stock arms? From looking at it, it doesn't look to be all that hard. The stock mounting plate can easily be removed, and then a sleeve setup at the proper angle welded in, then you can just install bolt in ball joints. Has anyone done this before? Thanks.

I am rocking black and red, i bet blue would look great.

My biggest reason for getting a whole quad, is that if something looks broke that easy to fix. But if something isn't there, and thats causing the problem, now your chasing your tail. I have learned so much about this quad in a few short weeks doing all this work to it. But if I was originally given a box of parts, and told to build a machine out of it, it would take a year.

You guys talked me into it. I am gonna get one. I will call FAST first, I have had great service with those guys, and like suporting good vendors. Definaly the polymer one though.

My switch for the parking brake would mess the engine up even with the entire tors system removed. It got wet once and I had to unplug it just to get it to move. It was the last thing plugged in, i figured with the tors box removed that It wouldn;t work, boy was i wrong.