regalrocket

RM carries them, they are just out of stock.

Its all about riding styles. I ride tight woods, and like a more low end based two stroke. The PT Mids make great off idle power that allows you to pull a slightly higher gear, and muscle threw the turns and have the ability to leave them hard without having to rev the piss out of it in a lower gear. Its just how I ride. PT Mids have just as much as stock, and awsome low and mid power. Its smooth power too, which will keep you outa trouble in the woods. I have a friend with T-6's and he wants PT's after riding my machine. Its just how we ride i guess.

I'm from WNY, military also, lookin to do some riding with the banshee.

Inside the plunger assembly rubber seal, there is a thin metal spring clip. It rusts and breaks, causing the issue you have. You cannot get the spring for it, so you just have to get a new assembly. A wrench will take it right out, it comes out as one assembly. Its like 32 bucks for a new one from the dealer.

I LOVE Paul Turner Mids. My friend has a set of T-6's and he wants to switch over to PTR's because of the low end torque. This machine now rides more like a sick 4 stroker. I do alot of tight woods, and winding a machine up to get power is tough, and dangerous alot of the time.

I am very intersted in this as well. I do ride in the winter, and the summer and something like this would be great to keep from having to change the mains every few months.

West Coast Graphics on ebay They were nice, and with the seat its a great deal for 65 bucks.

An angle grinder with a buffing wheel on it is a mean mother F'r at polishing stuff. We use it for show cars to do stuff like gas tanks and other large stuff. Very portable, and can get into wheels very easily.

I have a stock machine, with a fresh top end, and just a set of pipes on it. I also have an extra set of cages. I am auto drag engine builder, aviation mechanic and know a good bit about engines. I would be willing to try this if you still looking for guinea pigs. Machine

Yea that stuff is just paint thinner, any cured paint will laugh at it. Go to NAPA and get the paint stripper in a rattle can. Spray it on, and 10 seconds later your paint if falling off. Clean with a brush BEFORE you clean with water. Water stops the process, and you will just end up with gelly nasty paint.

Banshees have soft iron sleeves, with harder rings. The cross hatch honing is there to help set the rings. If you don't build up sufficient cylinder pressure, the rings won't be forced against the hatching, and won't set before hatching is buffed off. In other words, JUST RIDE THE THING. I've built sleds, quads, 1,200 drag SBC's and airplane engines. They are all the same. A very short break in followed by actual driving, racing, flying............ Don't make break in a 40 hour deal, or by the time its broke in, it will be due for a rebuild.

Paul Turner mids, they make power right out of the hole, no power band, just all power.

My mids needed 320 mains with the cold weather, that might be some of your problem if its cold up there.

I am looking for the PTR Mid billet exhaust clamps, wondering if anyone has some laying around, thanks.

My friend has some t-6's on his bike, and he hates them. I have PTR Mids, and so far I freaking LOVE them. I do alot of woods and trail riding. These things have gobs of low end, and you can pull the wrong gear and it just muscles thew it like a monster. Great woods and MX pipe. Plus I like to keep the R's low, just adds a factor of safety not revving the crap out of it to get HP. Just my peve.

I have to update my stock a-arm thread, but in short I found out that the shock mounting point was just in too close to the frame on the lower arm. It pushes the wheel down probably 4 inches over stock. When the machine is on the ground with the suspension sag making the machine look only 1 in higher, its fine. But when you remove all weight, the suspension travels down way to far, and even with large aftermarket ball joints, the working range is way exceeded. On top of that, the upper arm gets closer to the shock than I am comfortable with. Really, a purpose built lower arm is what is needed that has a bend up after the shock mount point to allow for the shock to sit nice, but keep the effective suspension travel within limits. I have the shocks sitting on the shelf now, they are impressive for stock, but I cannot use them with stock arms, or even my stock style arms due to a few clearance issues. I will just have to make a different lower arm so that they work nice.

Yes, I have installed them. I am a race car fabricator, and I know about suspension geometry, and they exceed the ball joint limits. Like it was said, if you have to compress the shock to get it in, due to the fact that the ball joints keep the arms from traveling any further, then yes they will eventully do damage.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? PTR Mids, Fat Boy II silencers 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Pro-design Foam 3) Stock Airbox with lid, no snorkle 4) What is your elevation? 500 MSL 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 320 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 30F 8) Do you have a port job? stock 9) What kind of carbs? stock 10) What size carbs? stock 11) Reeds? Boysen stock cages 12) Air screws? at 2 turns 13) Needle? Stock, 5th notch (very bottom notch)

98_Shee, sorry I didn't see that you mentioned the choke tube, I got all excited and replied before reading everyones posts. That choke tube just got me last night when I put my quad back together. I have done it a bunch of times, but forgot it, and i would get one side to run, then the other would fall offline. I chased my tail for a few minutes then realized what I had done. Talk about feeling dumb when I found out what it was. On a side note, I assume your a Pilot. I am a Cessna owner, A&P/IA and MEI.

Is the tube connecting the two carbs together connected? I have put the carbs on, forgot that, and one cylinder will just fog unburnt fuel while the other runs OK.

Stock stuff is mild steel. 4130 grade moly tubing is better BASE material, welded improperly it will precipitate carbon, and be WAY more prone to cracking that standard carbon steel. But if your familiar with TIG or high carbon MIG its not biggy. I personally where your comming from, I don't like cutting into a frame, I rather make bolt on stuff so that if I don't like it, I can change it easily. I would take the stock arm and trace that sucker out on paper or cardboard, so that you know the stock mount points, and stock locations for ball joints. Measure the angle of the ball joint, then start working on it. I had one issue when I modified my stock A-Arms, and that came from the bigge shocks that I used. I should have known better, and I was easily fixed, but it could have gone really bad. SO learning from my mistake (I knew it was stupid to finish weld before checking it out, but were men, we don't like to take things slow) tack it all together, then bolt it all back up before you fry it so that you know that it all works good. Then fry it, and beat on it.

That thing looks bad ass for sure, tonka tough.

Off topic, but that tri-z looks so so mean. I am a big 3-wheeler guy, and I have never seen one look as mean as that. The closest one that loooked that tough was a convereted CR dirtbike.

There is a good reason why the smallest sled that is considered quick is a 440cc. Those tracks have lots of weight, lots of traction, and lots of resistance. It takes alot of engine to make a machine move. I love my banshee, but my 700 triple sled motor is like a blown BBC, and the banshee is a 4 cyl stocker. I really wanted to take my sled motor out and put it in a quad frame some day. But really, after thinking about it (120hp) thats just too much HP. I don't drag, and you will never use that much power in the trails. Sleds for deep snow. Quads for 2 weeks after the last snow, and have fun on the hard pack.

I was reading a few things in this install thread, and some things really made me cringe. First off DO NOT elongate the holes in the A-arm to get the bottome shock end to fit. The big end of the shock eye hits the a-arm reinforcement plate, and elongating the hole, will just make sure that the eye grinds on that plate every second of the quads life, not good. Also, I don't recomend cutting the metal from under the eye mount, it really adds alot of strength, so removing it is bad. What I did is heat the area red hot, and with a bolt ground to a radius, I massaged the area down. I heated, beated, heated, beated, then heated for a min or 2 and let cool slow (getto temper). This give LOTS of clearance, keeps it strong, and is pretty easy to do. It can be done with a regular cheap propane torch. My beating tool (happens to be a shock mount bolt, as it was rusted and gettting replaced). Painted Lower with the pocket made by beating.