regalrocket

<~~~~~ Grand Island NY, (Buffalo for most)

I'm having a hard time finding a black storage cover for my Banshee. Anyone have a link to a banshee specific cover or one thats known to fit good. Thanks.

Wow guys, I am glad to see that others have taken interest in this idea. It has worked so good so far. I have ridden all summer with no issues, othere than silky smooth geometry. Here are some pictures on the bike for those wondering. Because you guys asked, pictures on the quad. Some weak pictures of me in GA This one on the trailer has me next to a 2+1 machine. Just so you can see the stance remains the same, while the travel extends slightly. All told, this added like 1.25 inches to the width. I cut the stock stearing links and cut/over sleaved tubing to make them work. I have had friends with long travel wide width arms that really like these. The machine has a nice balance, and keeps a good turing radius. Fits between trees really good too. I have had a few requests for me to do this mod. Unfortunatly life has me really busy. And although I love doing fab work, I am attempting to change my career, and fab just as a hobby. If this changes, I will let you guys know. Thanks again for the kind remarks. Oh as a final addition. BUY THE AZCUSTOMQUADS JOINTS!! I machined my own weld on adapters, and reamed the spindles to fit the auto tie rod ends. Once these fail, I am going to get some used stock spindles and add these his joints. I hate having anything that is modified, when there is a part that will bolt on without it. His 5 dollar adapters saves a good few hours, and makes this a weekend project instead of a week. Do it.................... do it do it.

Soft bushing, and no seal. Dirt gets in there and it eats itself. When you take it apart, the steel nub is fine, but the bushing is so warn that it just rattles and jams. The aluminum kicker levers have a stainless bushing that wears much much less.

I used both methods of removal. I packed the area with a small rag, then popped the cage out and used a magnet to get the beedle bearings. Then I used a pilot bearing puller to take the race out. It was very easy. For anyone that is looking to do this repair, get the puller.

Thanks guys, I will try the pilot bearing puller, but will be planning on using plan B which seems like the way it will go. You guys rock.

Been chasing problems with my clutch, and found that it was the push lever needle bearings. I have the lever and the seal out. I just wanted to know the easiest way to remove that bearing? Thanks.

It would have to be an aftermarket frame because the 'Off Road use Only" reggy would prevent any ideas about registering it.

Ok, I dug into everything, and indeed the bearing for the clutch lever is shot. It ate the arm too. Not cool. I got the seal out, now what is the easiest way to remove the bearing? Thanks.

All of those breathers allow the air in the case to leave, or return. When the engine warms up, it builds pressure in the case. If you have it all blocked off, it will just force oil threw seals and stuff. Hook it up, the last guy was not thinking.

I really appreciate the help. I thought I had narrowed this down to the cable. But after replacement, its still an issue. I had the cover and clutch basket cover apart already. Guess its getting a second look. I should have done it right the first time. Thanks again.

My clutch has been acting up, and its kinda wierd. If I drive it hard, everything is great. But if I crawl slow threw ditches, the clutch lever lever will get real hard to pull. Its not the lever or cable, both have been replaced. I believe that its the clutch disengagement arm (the part the cable hooks to). It feels like its jamming on the clutch actuator rod. Sometimes it will jam up bad enough, that the clutch won't engange fully when the lever is released. So how hard is it to replace the rod and the arm? Is it a total tear down. Thanks.

Disregard. I tore it all down. Its the clutch cable. It must have broke a strand internally.

Update: After looking at the clutch arm, the arrows are not even close to being lined up. The adjustment arm is about 3/8 of an inch out of alignment towards the stator side. Did the adjuster just loosen up?

Ok so heres the issue. My quad was fine, then I let my father ride it. He pussy footed it for a while, then when I got back on it, the clutch lever seems really tight. It even has a spot where it gets worse then kinda pops free. Did he ride it and weld the ball? can you tell if the ball is welded without pulling it? What would make the clutch lever tough to pull. thanks.

Its VERY VERY lean, keep doing that and your gonna bind the rings, or melt a piston. Chances are you already did some good damage.

I was given Motul 800 when I bought my machine. So far I really like it. It has almost no smoke, smells good, and seems pretty powerful. For now I will stick with it. I run Klotz in my sled, and the inside of that thing looks brand new after 10 years of very hard riding in very deep powder. Its been apart for other issues, and I was impressed at how clean the inside was.

I guess you have never seen a small block chevy or ford. They have headgaskets that have 1/8 holes where the head and block have 3/4 holes. You can actually move coolant too fast. It will cavitate, and moce so fast that it picks up no heat. Move the coolant too fast, and it won't dissapate the heat at the radiator, it will all just equal out in temprature. I think yamaha did a little research when making these, leave it alone, or get a cool head if you have many mods.

This needs a sticky. I use this post more than anything, and it eliminates alot of the repeating questions about routine jetting combos.

Ok, I looked at it today, and really wanted to fix this without out modifying. These seats had to be tight stock. That front strap on the chassis behind the tank is where the seat hooks into, and its the only thing that limits the travel. Figuring that it might have moved, I took a dead blow and tapped it down twice. Put the seat back on and its perfect. No movement at all, and I mean at all. The seat still installs just fine. I think that must get displaced up after lots of riding. So if your seat wiggles. Tap the front strap down, check it after each blow, and once its nice and tight, your all set.

I cooked my stock lenses by leaving the covers on and hitting the switch while riding. I just need the lenses, but am willing to get the whole thing if they at least have great shape lenses. Thanks guys.

I might have to do that. I figured that there is no way yamaha made these being so loose, and I don't see if there is anything missing by looking at the microfiche. If it comes to that, I will be adding some bolts and acorn nuts.

I have my quad just about where I want it, but the dam seat is the last issue. It moves back and forth a bit more than i like. All 4 of the rubber bushings are installed, and in good shape. It moves alot up front, the back is tight. Is there a rubber bushing on the frame where the seat locks into, or is that just bare metal. I seems that there is too much play in that area. Thanks.

Do you have any pictures of the event. I am in the Buffalo area, and was interested, but stayed home cause I was concerned about the Banshee tackling the mud and snow. Thanks.

DID YOU GET THE LITTLE BLACK CHOKE CROSS OVER TUBE BACK ON !!!!