regalrocket

I agree. I did 6 year active army, and was into drag cars (still am) but a 20ft trailer and race car inside is a bitch. Living on base a quad would have been a kick ass toy to have. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the quad and a small enclosed trailer for it as my toy, and left the drag car at home for a few years.

If its squeeking, it probably has corrosion between the bolts and the steel bushings over them. I would pull the bolts and greese them and reinstall. If not, they will seeze together, and you will have real issues down the road. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

The hard part is getting the staples in correctly. You have to push real hard on the gun, otherwise the staple kicks sideways and won't go into the plastic, I would think that with the close tolerances (you have to heat and streach most seat covers) that it won't go over the stock cover in the front area where it peaks next to the tank, and if it did, you would have a hard time going threw both layers of seat covering and still keeping the staples going in straight. I have done them on sleds and quads. My last one was part of the decal kit I got off of ebay, and it came out very nice. Just take your time. I personally start in the hard parts and work my way to the easy stuff. Which for me means working the front and front sides, then the back area, and lastly the sides.

Honestly, if its not done on a mill with a rotary table, your just shootin in the dark as to the proper radius to grind the holes. You might get it close, but for 35 bucks, I would just buy one, and for 50 you can get a nice one from Chariot. When you look at what is left for the bolt heads to clamp onto after your done grinding, you will see that its just cutting it too close. Sure it was done like that back in the day, but were not in the day, and you can get a nice product for cheap. I looked into the DIY method, not worth it IMO, and I'm cheap as they come.

If you have a stock airbox it will make installing the carbs pretty much impossible.

Direct from DG. They are like 40 a set. I just got them, you have to call them though, not on their site.

No there is a spring clip under the boot on the nut that holds the choke out. You have to get the whole assembly from yamaha. 30 bucks or so.

If the bowls are swapped that will make the choke not function at all. I wouldn't worry about jetting, right now its not getting enough gas, focus on the choke circuit.

This is a super common problem, I see it 3 times a week or more. MODS I think we need a STICKY!! on this one, it will help people out, and hands down is the biggest problem. First off, the issue is with your choke circuit. It runs once it is primed, so thats the issue. First off, questions: Are both of your carb slides mounted so that the cut faces the inlet? Is the needle retainer positioned so that the hole in the slide is visable threw the slot that the cable mounts into? Is your transfer tube connected to the correct boss? Is the O-ring on the choke plunger in good shape? Are the carb bowls mounted so the bowl with the air bleed jet is on the left carb? If all of these check out, then move on to cleaning. The choke and pilot circuit are very picky. It takes compressed air from a compressor at around 60psi, and some spray on carb cleaner. remove the main jet, pilot jet, and the brass tube that the needle goes into, and the main jet threads into (remove the main jet, and use a plastic punch to push it out the top of the carb. Hose them down with the cleaner, and blow out ever little hole in that thing. Reassemble, and start it up. The first time you put totally dry carbs on, the choke circuit probaby won't work. Put your hand over the carbs and kick it to make a poor mans choke. After its running, pull the choke plunger out, until it start running bad (purges the air out of the circuit and gets some fuel in it). After all of that, shut if off and let it cool down, really cold. Then go out after a few hours, pull the choke, and when it starts on the second kick, go drink beer, cause your all that man is, and you made a machine your bitch. I had the same issue, and chased my tail and ended up doing a top end, new reeds, new reed cages, plugs, changed pilots and cleaned the carbs. After some digging, I found out that the previous owner had the carb slides backwards, the slide vent hole covered, and some others suff wrong. It took the compressed air cleaning to actually fix it, and it was NIGHT and DAY after that cleaning.

It did it EVERY time you did a doughnut to the right, on ice none the less (winter riding). As kids we used to flat track around the house for hours. We had to go clockwise because of the chain issue. If you went the other way, the swingarm would move enough to cause an alignment issue, and toss the chain. It tossed that chain daily until we put the new swingarm bearings in. You should have been there watching a 10 year old with a aluminum stick welding electrode trying to put a case back together that was in 4 pieces (DC reverse for those wondering). It worked, but looking back, it was a little far out of my league.

For the money, its hard to beat the Boysen stock replacements. On a stock bike, its a good fit. 60 bucks for the needed 2 sets. If you have the money, VF3 all the way!!. I am broke, so it was boysens for me.

This is a super common problem, I see it 3 times a week or more. MODS I think we need a STICKY!! on this one, it will help people out, and hands down is the biggest problem. First off, the issue is with your choke circuit. It runs once it is primed, so thats the issue. First off, questions: Are both of your carb slides mounted so that the cut faces the inlet? Is the needle retainer positioned so that the hole in the slide is visable threw the slot that the cable mounts into? Is your transfer tube connected to the correct boss? Is the O-ring on the choke plunger in good shape? Are the carb bowls mounted so the bowl with the air bleed jet is on the left carb? If all of these check out, then move on to cleaning. The choke and pilot circuit are very picky. It takes compressed air from a compressor at around 60psi, and some spray on carb cleaner. remove the main jet, pilot jet, and the brass tube that the needle goes into, and the main jet threads into (remove the main jet, and use a plastic punch to push it out the top of the carb. Hose them down with the cleaner, and blow out ever little hole in that thing. Reassemble, and start it up. The first time you put totally dry carbs on, the choke circuit probaby won't work. Put your hand over the carbs and kick it to make a poor mans choke. After its running, pull the choke plunger out, until it start running bad (purges the air out of the circuit and gets some fuel in it). After all of that, shut if off and let it cool down, really cold. Then go out after a few hours, pull the choke, and when it starts on the second kick, go drink beer, cause your all that man is, and you made a machine your bitch. I had the same issue, and chased my tail and ended up doing a top end, new reeds, new reed cages, plugs, changed pilots and cleaned the carbs. After some digging, I found out that the previous owner had the carb slides backwards, the slide vent hole covered, and some others suff wrong. It took the compressed air cleaning to actually fix it, and it was NIGHT and DAY after that cleaning.

If the swingarm or axle bearings are bad, the chain can come off from simply turning. I had a 200x with bad swingarm bearings, if you did doughnuts to the right, it would slack the chain and toss it. Fucked up a case before I learned not to be cheap and fix the dam thing when you see its broke.

Check your choke crossover tube. If it fell off, it will cause a cylinder to drop off at low rpms.

Pull the tank, pull the plugs, get flashlight and look at carnage. You burned it down, totally classic. They always run the best ever, 2 seconds before they stop running completely.

The one bowl has a feed port for the choke, the other side its blocked off. It will render the choke useless, and make starting a real chore. That is probably most of your problem.

Yes that is normal, only the choke side needs one, but sometimes they both have it. All it is for is the fuel supply to the choke. Make sure that the choke side has a air jet in the carb bowl. One bowl has a plug, and the other has a threaded in jet at the bottom of the casting that that tube goes into. You can take it out like any air bleed, and clean it really good to make sure it is getting fuel to the choke circuit.

I have the screws sitting in my parts box, havn't used them yet. I routed my cable so that just adjusting the cable works just fine, and the idle doesn't change as you turn the handle bars. I had a set of carbs that had the screws in, and they didn;t shave the bosses, causing the bosses to strip from over tightning the screws trying to get idle up. When I replace the carbs, I decided to try it without the screws, seems to work fine. My triple cylinder sled doesn't use screws, uses cable tension, figured if it worked there, it will work here too.

I think you have a tuning issue, sounds lean on the bottom end. Its cold out, so if its jetted for warmer weather, then that may be your issue. Pipes make a huge difference where the power is. I have PTR mid range pipes and its got a really nice bottom end power. The selection of parts makes a huge difference. Its not common for people to add stuff and not tune it properly also.

Is the hole in the carb slides that is under the needle keeper plate covered? you shoud be able to see the hole threw the cable slot in the keeper. Other than that, its dirt somewhere, I would pull the carbs apart, clean them and use 60PSI of air to blow EVERY passage out. I had this same problem, after a good cleaning, it was fixed instantly. Before the cleaning, I could kick for an hour, and it wouldn't fire.

I do like the seperate head design personally. I am not a fan of the goofy "precooler". A simple manifold or hose connections would have been fine for me.

U.S. Army Flight Engineer (chinooks), Commercial Pilot, FAA Mechanic/Inspector.

Your carbs are probably dirty. Clean and BLOW every passageway out. To include the choke circuit. Then make sure the slides are installed properly (taper towards the inlet) and that the air hole under the needle mount plate is unblocked. I promise you its dirt or something not set properly. I chased the exact same problem for a month, blowing the carbs out for a second time did it.

They just look cool.

What is your pickup gap set at?